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Best Way to Strap Down a Sportbike

8.8K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  HOOCH  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I am going on a TDY to Destin Fl, and am planning on trailering my bike down on the back of a open trailer with my friends Harley. It is about a 8 hour drive and I have never had my bike straped down for a trip. Where do I start, obviously my goal is to get the bike down there in one piece with no paint or rub damagae whatsoever.

Here is what I have came up with so far, I am going to get a standard chalk for the front wheel and bolt it through the trailer floor, and then I was going to get the new style canyon dancer bar harnes that has the caps that go over your bars from the ends. And then I was going to pull the side panels and run one tie down on either side at the subframe. Should I be good, what else am I missing. I really am worried about messing up my bike in this whole deal. Wish I had a enclosed trailer and a pit-bull restraint system, but I don't.

I am also going to cover any areas where it looks like the straps may touch the fairings with blue masking tape, along with the front fiairing for bug and debris damage.
 
#2 ·
think you have it covered....go mild in the front and strap(don't want to ruin fork seals) the rear good..the chalk and dancer strap is good to keep solid... I posted pics on my truck before very solid not even strapping the rear end to local track..the extra precautions should to the trick IMO.

PS...strap the Bloo one the best it's precious...:eek:ccasion1:lol:

bloo
 
#4 ·
The Canyon Dancer V2 (the one with the plastic bar-end cups on it) are the best for not screwing up your grips and keeping the straps positioned properly. I use a microfiber polishing cloth that I fold in half and hold over the bar-end when I push the plastic cup on. This prevents scraping of the bar-end and helps hold the cup on one side of the bars while I do the same thing to the other side. Then you just strap it down. The chock for the front will hold the bike securely and you don't need much force on the straps at that point other than to secure it from wobbling or backing out of the chock. Works great.

As for the rear, instead of removing the body panels and going to the subframe, try re-installing the rear pegs and using those as anchor points. I loop the strap through them and rehook it at the attachment point of the trailer/truck bed (essentially both strap hooks go to the same tiedown point). Even though most hooks are rubber coated, this will keep the hard parts away from the hard parts and uses more of the strap so there's less slack to tie off and keep from flapping in the wind. The bike will be rock solid and when you get to your destination, just remove the rear pegs again.
 
#13 ·
:+1:

When we transport anything for the dealership it's a single canyon dancer (old sckool one) with microfibers anywhere the strap might touch. Though, it is possible on pretty much any bike to strap it without the need of any microfibers. I don't think you'll hurt anything with extra straps, just sounds like a PITA. You could always just run a strap through the rear wheel instead of off the subframe or pass pegs (BTW, pass pegs don't work so well on gen1 bikes, the strap almost always rubs on your can). The rear most likely wouldn't go anywhere anyway, but the strap through the wheel will give you a little peace of mind without removing plastic.
 
#9 ·
I will be there 5-21 May, and I am definately looking for some locals to show me the spots to ride, if there is anything good.

I wish I had the rear pegs to use for tie-downs, I am 99% sure I sold them though.
 
#10 ·
haha places to ride funny guy. Its pretty flat here. There are some roads up in Alabama that are ok for around here. Plus Alabama's laws are a little nicer than ours. Hit me up when you get in to town I will mess around a bit.
 
#11 ·
I use the regular canyon dancer strap. A simple business card slid under the strap where the dancer makes contact with the grip is a simple cheap way to protect the grips.

Its what I do anyway... Good luck.
 
#16 ·
If you plan on hauling your bike very much, it is worth spending a little money on a chock that will hold the wheel. Baxley, condor, pit bull and others make them.

These allow you to put zero load on your suspension.

When I don't want to pull the trailer, I just screw one down to 3/4 plywood and toss in the back of the pickup.

I've hauled bikes this way about 50,000 miles over the last several years.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Canyon dancer a good product, as far as removing panels, that is a waste of time/effort. If anything, I use a rubber bungee strap and just wrap or strap down the rear tire, all it is going to do is keep it from bouncing around. All the pressure is going to be on the chock anyway. For anything over a short trip, i use 4 cam type straps (hate those ratchet types) on the front, two for back-up (sure can't hurt anything). Most importantly, when you think you are finished, you MUST grab one of the bars and forcfully rock the bike a few times while saying out loud and with conviction, "That shit ain't goin' nowhere".:cool:
 
#18 ·
My buddy has one of the pitbull restraints for the rear, that thing is awesome!
 
#27 ·
:+2:eek:n the Cycle Cinch!!!Way better thanCanyon Dancers(I have 4 of them)A friend of mine made a Pitbull stand for his rear tire.Set it up so all he as to do is tie the front down then put the stand behind the rear tire and slide a rod in the hole to help keep the bike more stable.Works awsome!!!
 
#28 ·
id go through the wheel for the rear, ive gone well over 8hours with just a canyon dancer and one through the rear wheel!

Or just say fuck it and quit being a puss and buy a pit bull trailer restraint system! Nothing to worry about with those bad boys!