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2017 zx10r Bike Setup Experience

15K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  k2xsnow  
#1 ·
Quick summary of my experience and suggested mods:

Stock - the bike is a monster, but very restricted. Couple track days on it, felt okay, not that I knew different. Come to find out, the front suspension was crazy stiff. Power band was very limited, and a little slow on the response, as well as crappy on/off throttle like a bucking horse.

Did plenty of research, this is where I am at with Mods:

Purchased/Installed Graves Smog Block off plates
Removed Smog emissions, and extra vacuum lines (plugged air-box hole with nipple)
Tied together gas tank vacuum lines into a T
Removed Canister and brackets
Removed Intake Flapper, motor, vacuum lines
Plugged flapper hole with stock part plug
Wrapped gold tape around airbox (plan to do under gas tank eventually)
Disabled/Disconnected Narrow-band O2 (Plan to remove and plug hole)
Removed Cat Converter
Purchased/Installed Link pipe with Wide-band O2 bung in place of Cat
Purchase/Installed Woolich Log box + Auto-tune Zt-3 package
Began with a unrestricted Euro map - all emissions restrictions removed/disabled. Rev-limiter is now at 14000, auto-blip enabled, kill-times adjusted for down-shifts huge difference. (I'm sure Race Tools would be better, but this was very easy and definitely helped).
And finally - sent OEM shifter to Spaz who removed all the slop and lateral play :notworthy:

With Stock filter, stock pipe, I have now data logged and tuned nearly 10 iterations using the auto-tune software. Its so easy.

The suspension was completely setup (as a baseline) for $60 at Track side.

The entire bike is a different animal. I would highly recommend everyone of these. The shifter/quick-shifter/auto-blip actually works very well. With the auto-tune and unrestricted bike, it's insane.

2nd gear runs harder than 1st gear did, and has consistently more power across the entire power band. The bike wants to come up in 3rd gear now, but nothing crazy. It doesn't fall on its face midway through the pull anymore. Every time I auto-tune with logged files, I feel the bike run smoother with more consistent power delivery.

Traction/Wheelie control is still one 1, and works perfect. The front doesn't rise more than a foot off the ground, however I don't spend much time in 1st gear, typically running 2nd around the track.

The final touch was the suspension adjustment. The tech. removed 15 turns out of the front forks, just to give you an idea how stiff it was. I bumped to Intermediate this previous weekend, the bike is a monster.

I suck, but the bike is awesome, so now I just need to fix my short comings :crackup:


Hope that helps anyone new - any questions or suggestions appreciated. Also, I did a baseline Dyno, I'll post the comparison when I dyno it again eventually.

youtube -> Anything with a Motor (http://youtube.com/c/AnythingwithaMotor link should work soon)
Insta -> whiteoutz06
 
#2 ·
Thanks very handy info my Woolich log box arrived today with the O2 wideband kit, My De-Cat pipe turned up too just the block off plates to buy and get O2 bung welded on :)
set my preload on front 5 to 6 turns in from fully out used setting from online for rebound and damping 1.2 to 2 out. Yours must have been well wound up for 15 turns in :)
 
#3 ·
Looking at were to mount the O2 sensor bung seems like it will fit well on link pipe just back from the original sensor. just after the 1st slight bend on the link pipe. Could not find a link pipe for the 2016 gen 5 with O2 bung already fitted and was not sure gen 4 one would fit.
Do you have any pictures were yours is fitted?
Thanks
 
#4 ·

Attachments

#5 ·
Prepping for next year, this is what I'm looking to purchase:


-1F steel sprocket - I hear this keeps more top end than +2R, but lose a little power because its harder to turn???

Possibly 520 chain/sprocket setup, is it worth it??

Tires - Q3/Q3+/Power RS - leaning towards Q3+ for some reason

MWR WSBK Filter


Any suggestions?

I enjoy the stock bike look, I do a little bit of highway roll racing, but bought the bike for the racetrack.
Thanks.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Update:
I've bumped from Novice to Advanced with STT, normally just run Grattan. Favorite track.

Tore up PowerRS tires in 1.5 track days. Waste of money when running at Advanced pace.
Purchased Power Slick 2, heaters required. Rides like a dream, night and day difference.
Removed Kickstand
Purchased a .9 lbs battery, probably saved 4 lbs from stock battery
Pick up power with the WSBK Filter
Continuous Woolich tune revisions after every track day
Removed stock plastics, purchased Armour Bodies plastics, in paint right now. I'll post pics next time, or check out my IG or YT.
This will also remove both driver and passenger seats with a foam pad.
Headlights/taillight removed obviously.
Went key-less triple tree, and key-less gas cap - super convenient. Worth the $.
New triple tree with no key holder, much lighter
Removed rear passenger peg, (stock exhaust requires the right side)
Removed random pieces across the bike to clean/lighten it up.
Removed license plate brackets, no longer street legal. 100% track bike now.
Replaced stock rearsets with Vortex Rearsets.. toes were getting beat up from asphalt, and feet were sliding off.

I have not weighed the bike yet, I'm assuming I'm down around 45 lbs from the stock 445 lbs.
I personally have lost 10 lbs so I move a little better too :D

Heading to Autobahn Country Club 8/1-8/2

Future:
I may gut the stock pipe, but I like how quiet it is.
I have the -1F sprocket, I may put that on soon.

I'm running out of ideas!

Later.
 
#13 ·
Hmm great suggestion. I'll start with the -1F to see how I like it. Grattan has a straight that reaches 160 mph, I figured the longer gearing helped with that.

Where did you get the 8mm spacer? How much do you weigh, have many people had good luck with doing this?
 
#34 ·
Barber weekend was amazing, worth the drive! Best track I've been too. Some YT highlights here:
Best lap of the weekend: 1:34.6. If I had another day I think I could get to 33s/32s.

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Bike is running better and I'm keeping up better. Burnt the rear Slick 2, went with the Cup2 because they were out of slicks, no difference. I believe its the same side compound.
The -1F worked perfect once I got used to the torque curve. I also rotated the handles out so I could move my hand around the throttle better in corners (like a screw driver).

Plan moving forward:
Try the 8 mm shim... need to stop by the hardware store.
Trying to hit a couple more tracks this year, ACC, Pittrace, maybe a trip to CMP. Depends on $$.

oh... and I didn't have the $$ or the plan to purchase this.. but I found a deal I couldn't refuse on EBAY. So within 2 minutes of seeing it I hit "Buy it now"

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The Best; Almost new akra full titanium.. about 45% costs compared to purchasing new. Can't wait to re-tune with this bad boy on.