[blackbeast]

thanks garth, 12k on em' and the right side is leaking. time to have a me saturday.:thumbsup:

 

[Ludite100]

Just a little point...there's no need to strip the cartridge...leave tension on the spring ie top cap on....impact wrench on the bottom cap screw and undo..pull apart and do the seals...pump it out and replace oil by volume

 

[kawdawg]

Just a little point...there's no need to strip the cartridge...leave tension on the spring ie top cap on....impact wrench on the bottom cap screw and undo..pull apart and do the seals...pump it out and replace oil by volume

How do you get the oil level set right?

 

[kawdawg]

I just finished mine. I stripped them down using this write up + service manual. So far so good!

 

[ninjabill]

Thanks for the write up!
I have a few questions.
1. Did you removed the allen bolt out of the bottom of the inner tube as per the manual spec? 2. Did you use the slide hammer effect to separate the inner & outter tube (as most you tube videos showed)?
3. How do you adjust the distance between the bottom end of the top plug and rebound damping adjuster?
4. Will you do a how to video in the future?

Thanks!

 

[Ludite100]

If you are only replacing the seals there is no need to strip the cartridge at all. With the fork top screwed in this means the spring is under tension and is pushing the bottom of the cartridge into the bottom of the fork leg giving it some resistance to turning when you remove the allen screw inside the axle point....remove this screw with an air ratchet (windy gun). It needs that sudden input of torque the windy gun gives, otherwise it will spin with the cartridge at hand tool speed.
Unscrew the fork top and the whole cartridge will come with it...separate inner outer tubes...renew seals.
Before assembling pump out the cartridge and then replace oil by volume.
Oh and don't tighten the screw with the windy gun...just do it by hand.

 

[ninjabill]

If you are only replacing the seals there is no need to strip the cartridge at all. With the fork top screwed in this means the spring is under tension and is pushing the bottom of the cartridge into the bottom of the fork leg giving it some resistance to turning when you remove the allen screw inside the axle point....remove this screw with an air ratchet (windy gun). It needs that sudden input of torque the windy gun gives, otherwise it will spin with the cartridge at hand tool speed.
Unscrew the fork top and the whole cartridge will come with it...separate inner outer tubes...renew seals.
Before assembling pump out the cartridge and then replace oil by volume.
Oh and don't tighten the screw with the windy gun...just do it by hand.

I am just changing the seals. So I do not need to remove the bottom allan bolt from the inner tube? Do I just pull the inner & outter tube like a slide hammer to remove the seal? I have watched a few you tube videos and they all separate the inner & outter tubes by slide hammer effect. There was no videos for the KYB fork seal replacement. I just want to make sure before I start hammer away on the fork tubes.

Thanks.

 

[Ludite100]

The inner tube is secured with the bottom allen screw....the outer is secured with the fork top...whichever you fully remove will allow the two to slide apart...and they do just slide apart...no hammering needed.
If you do it the top way you have to split the cartridge...spring compressing...resetting up..etc..etc.
With the bottom way the cartridge comes out in one piece once the top is undone.
Both are the right way its just easier from the bottom and the only bad thing about the bottom method is the fact that its awkward to get the oil bang on.
Hope this helps.

 

[ninjabill]

The inner tube is secured with the bottom allen screw....the outer is secured with the fork top...whichever you fully remove will allow the two to slide apart...and they do just slide apart...no hammering needed.
If you do it the top way you have to split the cartridge...spring compressing...resetting up..etc..etc.
With the bottom way the cartridge comes out in one piece once the top is undone.
Both are the right way its just easier from the bottom and the only bad thing about the bottom method is the fact that its awkward to get the oil bang on.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for your reply and yes this helps!:thumbsup:

 

[seddo]

hi has any1 ha probs with forks re-leaking an knocking from the stanchions if replacing seals from the allen key way? ive been told you have to replace the bush to if you replace seals

 

[EvilBoost]

I'm replacing my fork seals on my 2008 zx10r, but have no holes in the spacers to stick the puller in. What can I use to pull the spacer down?

 

[Mons7er]

Great write up, I just completed my re-build!

I wanted to point out that I had the aforementioned need of a grinder due to the tool not fulfilling it's advertised function. I wrote to a representative of Traxxion Dynamics about the matter, in order to see if they can either correct the advertising, add a warning or manufacture different plunger/puller rods for the kit.

I also had a question regarding resetting the cap; I installed my newly rebuilt forks without meddling with the caps at all. Should I be worried?

 

[bluedevil]

Warning......the Tools Garth Used is not What you get by Traxxions to pull the cartridge up for help....I don't know the Part # Garth used but the website will not help you I just did this.....best bet is to order a Kawi Tool part # 57001-1298 and use the ratchet Tip/Trick another member pointed out to help in one man compression then I would agree all is good. :wink:

Bloo

 

[bluedevil]

Warning......the Tools Garth Used is not What you get by Traxxions to pull the cartridge up for help....I don't know the Part # Garth used but the website will not help you I just did this.....best bet is to order a Kawi Tool part # 57001-1298 and use the ratchet Tip/Trick another member pointed out to help in one man compression then I would agree all is good. :wink:

Bloo

Forgot to add Traxxion Dynamics compression tool is ok to use as long as you have the right pull rod no cutting theirs it could cause problem....other that that it should be ok.

Bloo

 

[dudewhrsmybike]

What do you guys think....OEM seals or aftermarket is okay?

 

[evallarta1]

What do you guys think....OEM seals or aftermarket is okay?

ALWAYS use OEM, accept nothing else. FYI Racetech seals are OEM seals and they almost always have them in stock.

 

[aljaxon]

gen 1


if I am merely changing the oil is there a way round using special tools?

can I remove the allen bolt from the bottom empty and refill and then
is there a way to measure the depth of oil from the top without removing anything?

is it easy to tighten up the allen bolt afterwards or can it turn with the inners like on other forks ive stripped?

my forks are too stiff with little travel. I think the previous owner put either the wrong oil in or too much/too little.

 

[El Zilcho]

gen 1

if I am merely changing the oil is there a way round using special tools?

Leave the bottom bolt alone. Open the fork cap, lower the outer tube, pour the oil out, pour the new one in.

Loosen the cap before removing the fork from the triple.

 

[aljaxon]

thanks for that El Zilcho
and how do I guess or work out how much oil to put in?

 

[El Zilcho]

thanks for that El Zilcho
and how do I guess or work out how much oil to put in?

When the cap is unscrewed you can lower the outer tube and from then on you can follow the service manual (91mm of space between the oil surface and the top of the outer tube, if I remember correctly).

The cap will stay attached to the rod/spring/spacer that goes through the fork, but there should be enough space between the inner tube wall and the interior to pour oil in, and to insert something to measure the level. In order to remove the plastic spacer inside you would need to compress the spring---this would expose a nut that holds the cap. Once the nut is removed, the cap comes off, and the plastic piece and the spring can be removed (although oil should be measured with the spring in).

Just in case you go all the way---the lower tube alone will not contain all the oil. There are holes in it below the oil level. If you think you'll remove the outer tube (after removing the cap) and then pour the oil out, you will have a mess to clean up. I know that for a fact. :mrgreen: