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REPOST Enforcement Mod
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Hi mate,

Thanks on the QS - just feels like I'm pushing through two clicks to shift up and down and it almost feels like even though I'm pulling in the clutch its not really working, don't know if that makes sense.

Also do you know why the bike does a second downshift blip when I've done one on the throttle before changing down then the bike blips the throttle again all on its own - but only sometimes! Its weird lol - read the manual and couldn't see anything about it?

Akra make a dB killer that will fit but not specifically made for that pipe so apparently its a VERY tight fit and basically once it goes in its not coming out. Whilst having to cut into bits of the slip-on to get it in there. Not ideal. I have got the original CAT coming to me so can fit it back if needed but thanks mate appreciate the offer.
Sounds like your technique is bad. QS only at full throttle. It's not meant to be used at partial throttle or cruising around at steady speeds. You need to have the throttle WIDE OPEN to use that feature. Opposite is true for the autoblip. The throttle needs to be fully closed. And that feature only works if the ECU has been reflashed to enable that or has the Race ECU. It's not a standard feature that is available right off the showroom floor and is not selectable on the dash through the settings. Make sure you verify that it's been enabled before trying it, otherwise, you're forcing the transmission shift drum and forks into gear and will damage it.

There is no second downshift blip. If you're using it too low in the RPM with the basic settings, then it will lurch forward because the RPMs aren't matched. Is that what you're feeling instead of a blip? That's normal and means you're using it too low. FYI - autoblip is disabled below 3,000rpm.
 

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Sounds like your technique is bad. QS only at full throttle. It's not meant to be used at partial throttle or cruising around at steady speeds. You need to have the throttle WIDE OPEN to use that feature. Opposite is true for the autoblip. The throttle needs to be fully closed. And that feature only works if the ECU has been reflashed to enable that or has the Race ECU. It's not a standard feature that is available right off the showroom floor and is not selectable on the dash through the settings. Make sure you verify that it's been enabled before trying it, otherwise, you're forcing the transmission shift drum and forks into gear and will damage it.

There is no second downshift blip. If you're using it too low in the RPM with the basic settings, then it will lurch forward because the RPMs aren't matched. Is that what you're feeling instead of a blip? That's normal and means you're using it too low. FYI - autoblip is disabled below 3,000rpm.
Well said.

I’ll also add that if the bike is blipping itself after you’ve already rev’d to downshift, it’s because you’re coming off of the clutch too fast. The qs/ab disables when you have the clutch pulled, so you can shift regularly. You should be clutch in>blip>shift>clutch out. The second rev from the bike happens when you clutch in>blip>clutch out a little too far>shift.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
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Well said.

I’ll also add that if the bike is blipping itself after you’ve already rev’d to downshift, it’s because you’re coming off of the clutch too fast. The qs/ab disables when you have the clutch pulled, so you can shift regularly. You should be clutch in>blip>shift>clutch out. The second rev from the bike happens when you clutch in>blip>clutch out a little too far>shift.
Ah, I see where you are going with the second blip. I didn't even consider that as a result of the the clutch being let out before the shift actually happens which disengages the switch and would then allow the autoblip to try to work. That seems second nature so I hadn't thought in terms of that as an explanation. Nice catch, and that would definitely explain what's going on there! Yeah, technique issue as well. Hit it right with the actions you stated: clutch in->blip->shift->clutch out. The clutch safety switch is pretty sensitive and if the lever isn't almost touching the grip, it won't be activated. Put an adjustable clutch lever on there and it may not engage at all if it's not all the way out. Another wrinkle to look out for.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Sounds like your technique is bad.
It definitely is, I've never had a bike with QS lol so I disabled it up and down today and now it rides like normal.

I’ll also add that if the bike is blipping itself after you’ve already rev’d to downshift, it’s because you’re coming off of the clutch too fast.
The clutch safety switch is pretty sensitive and if the lever isn't almost touching the grip, it won't be activated. Put an adjustable clutch lever on there and it may not engage at all if it's not all the way out. Another wrinkle to look out for.
Yep I figured that out on today's drive, you need to be really positive with your clutch - on a Honda you don't need to go anywhere near to the bar - first Kawasaki as well so a learning curve, but I noticed if I brought the clutch all the way to the bar and really followed through on my gear changes it would be seamless so its just me being lazy and getting away with it on Fireblades for a long time.

So you were both right there too :)

Going to grab a set of ASVs thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Also got a Puig R-Racer screen on the bike and I think its creating windblast at my helmet - has anyone used one before or can they recommend me another that gives me less windblast at 70ish mph - I'm only 5ft10/11 so not that tall I think its changed the pattern of the wind to just hit me straight in the face unless I'm tucked in which is useless on a motorway.

Is the Puig Z-Racer screen any good or any others that people have used on a highway cruising and were relatively comfortable for what the bike is.

The R-Racer is a nice looking screen though!
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Also if anyone has any recommendations for comfort seats as the standard seat is making my ass go numb after about 30-45 mins.

I've seen Corbin and Saddlemen leaning towards the Saddlemen as its half the price but open to suggestions!!

Ive noticed that people say yhe Saddlemen GP-V1 raises the seat height by an inch which might be an issue for me as the bike is pretty tall already and I'm guessing that might put slightly more pressure on your wrists as well.
 

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Hey not sure where u are with all this but don't mess with the adapter to try and auto tune the bike. The signals will be so far off that actually can fuck up your bike. Either use the supplied wideband bung that woolich sends or buy the correct size tap and drill bit and drill out the narrow band bung, retap the thing and screw the wideband in there. No need to plug or weld or drill for a new bung. I tried the adapter. The hole is so small and the AFR was never quite right and always fluctuating because it takes the wideband out of the direct exhaust stream. Trust me don't use the stupid thing.
 

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Also if anyone has any recommendations for comfort seats as the standard seat is making my ass go numb after about 30-45 mins.

I've seen Corbin and Saddlemen leaning towards the Saddlemen as its half the price but open to suggestions!!

Ive noticed that people say yhe Saddlemen GP-V1 raises the seat height by an inch which might be an issue for me as the bike is pretty tall already and I'm guessing that might put slightly more pressure on your wrists as well.
Seat, I have a saddlemans front seat. Super comfy...you can also go Louimoto covers with gel inserts. The front seat stock used to kill me, I hated it. Saddlemans makes a few different models. Just don't go with the full on old man looking one lol.
 

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Also got a Puig R-Racer screen on the bike and I think its creating windblast at my helmet - has anyone used one before or can they recommend me another that gives me less windblast at 70ish mph - I'm only 5ft10/11 so not that tall I think its changed the pattern of the wind to just hit me straight in the face unless I'm tucked in which is useless on a motorway.

Is the Puig Z-Racer screen any good or any others that people have used on a highway cruising and were relatively comfortable for what the bike is.

The R-Racer is a nice looking screen though!
This is the windscreen I went with. Not having any issues with wind. I'm 6 foot 2 inch tall and it works well
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Cheers yeah thats the Z-Racing one, I'm about 5ft11 and I get mega windblast with the R-Racing one, I think its designed to be tucked all the time which is useless for me on a street bike with a bit of track.

Will get the Z-Racing Puig instead - cheers !!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Seat, I have a saddlemans front seat. Super comfy...you can also go Louimoto covers with gel inserts. The front seat stock used to kill me, I hated it. Saddlemans makes a few different models. Just don't go with the full on old man looking one lol.
Which Sadlemen one did you get? I was looking at the GP-V1? Is that the one you have? They say it makes the seat an inch higher and its already quite high!!

Hey not sure where u are with all this but don't mess with the adapter to try and auto tune the bike. The signals will be so far off that actually can fuck up your bike. Either use the supplied wideband bung that woolich sends or buy the correct size tap and drill bit and drill out the narrow band bung, retap the thing and screw the wideband in there. No need to plug or weld or drill for a new bung. I tried the adapter. The hole is so small and the AFR was never quite right and always fluctuating because it takes the wideband out of the direct exhaust stream. Trust me don't use the stupid thing.
Yeah I think I'll put the Woolich project on hold for a little bit as the dyno place said there's a new Woolich Pro device coming out soon for the ZX-10R and that one will be pretty cool! So yeah will park that project for the meantime. Probably going to put the cat and exhaust servo back on as its just a bit too loud for running around day to day as it is right now.

Also does your front end for want of a better word feel a bit loose over bumps and ruts sometimes? On a car I'd think it was like the bushes or anti roll bar bushes if it had one but I'm just working out if its a characteristic of this BFF suspension or whatever its called!

Thanks btw :)
 

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The Pace
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Didn't read any above comments, as my point is simple. 1) 3500 miles is nothing on this bike. 2) you MUST have extended warranty on this bike or see if you can buy it; I'll list contact Kawa dealer below that has in the past the best 5 year and 2 year extended warranties; 3) the only problem with this bike is the valves are weak even after adjusting within manufacturer mileage guidelines.

Full disclosure: I ride a lot as in average 35,000 miles per year. Here is the warranty info if you need it, call to check price; they like a check and I've dealt with them several times and they come through perfectly and fast.


mom and pop's dealer
 
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