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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

As the title states, there's a ZX10R 2019 that I'm looking at but it has a scorpion decat pipe and an Akrapovic slip-on on the bike and it's had no remap or refuelling done to it and its done 3500 miles from new. I've been told that the ECU can adjust on the fly to changes like the two listed, but I'm not sure as I've not had a Kawasaki before.

Obvious question will the bike have run lean at all? Is the decat on the Gen5 a catalytic converter remover or is it like a pre-cat or something?

Scorpion decat pipe (part KA113CR);
444986


Any help would be appreciated thanks.
 

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A catalytic converter is only for emissions. It gets removed because the chamber weighs a LOT and will increase the exhaust sound without it being there. The bike runs on the leaner side from the factory for emissions reasons also. The narrow band O2 sensor will make minor adjustments to account for environmental reasons. Throwing a slip-on on the bike and removing the catalytic converter will do nothing more than make it like better, weigh less, and make it noisier. It won't make it run leaner/richer, there's just no potential performance gains from it without retuning the bike.
 

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The narrow band as Sky said only makes small changes, very small it wont be correcting that de-cat link pipe fully but at the same time not its damaging lean. Has a aftermarket filter been fitted? But for me and £350 i would get it flashed and tuned not just for piece of mind but for unleashing her properly and have her running 100% makes a difference in mpg not just grin factor!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Guys, thanks for the input, no the only two things fitted to it are;

The official Akrapovic Slip On for Kawasaki so I guess this one;


And the Scorpion decat link pipe with mounting brackets, so this one;


I've asked its had no ECU mapping done at all, its just stock with those two parts fitted.

The bike has done about 3000-4000 miles odd, just wondering if with those two parts only, there will have been any damage to the engine - I've heard it runs a bit lean as it is but just wondering if the above two components would lean it out even further to the point its damaging the engine as I wouldn't buy it if thats the case.

I assumed that removing the catalytic converter (if thats what was in the other link pipe) increased flow and if flow was incresaed that increased the airfuel ratio and made the bike run leaner? Or have I got that wrong for those two parts?

Either way if you're both saying its fine to have those two parts on the bike without refuelling and no damage will have been done I'll go with it - I will eventually get a Woolich on it but just want to know there's no damage before purchase and that driving it around won't also damage it until I get the Woolich.

Edited to attach the Scorpion decat pipe install PDF - so there's exhaust servo stuff in the link pipe as well from the looks of things?

Thanks :)
 

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I've asked its had no ECU mapping done at all, its just stock with those two parts fitted.

The bike has done about 3000-4000 miles odd, just wondering if with those two parts only, there will have been any damage to the engine - I've heard it runs a bit lean as it is but just wondering if the above two components would lean it out even further to the point its damaging the engine as I wouldn't buy it if thats the case.

I assumed that removing the catalytic converter (if thats what was in the other link pipe) increased flow and if flow was incresaed that increased the airfuel ratio and made the bike run leaner? Or have I got that wrong for those two parts?

Either way if you're both saying its fine to have those two parts on the bike without refuelling and no damage will have been done I'll go with it - I will eventually get a Woolich on it but just want to know there's no damage before purchase and that driving it around won't also damage it until I get the Woolich.

Edited to attach the Scorpion decat pipe install PDF - so there's exhaust servo stuff in the link pipe as well from the looks of things?

Thanks :)
There are a lot of myths out there in the Interweb about a great many things. Changing out the muffler for a slip-on is one of those things. If you remove the restriction to make it easier for the piston to push the burned up are out of the cumbustion chamber, it doesn't magically affect the air/fuel mixture coming in on the next piston stroke. That's where the fuel/air ratio is set depending on how long the injector is held open. Running a motor on the leaner side of stoichiometric will just make it run a bit hotter. Decades ago when valves and pistons were poor and a lean running, hotter engine would burn those up. Those things don't really happen any more under normal use. Extended lean running can cause problems, but it's a combination of things and a slip-on doesn't change that enough to be concerned with.

There' no exhaust servo in the link pipe. Reread the instructions. All they're describing with that is how to disconnect the servo since it isn't used an longer with the pipe installation. That servo is just for noise abatement anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah cool, so it looks like I'm good to go? Cool!

Would it be better to get a Woolich logger and auto tune anyway when I can?

Also can I fit the wideband autotune into the narroband port on the header pipes with an adapter or is it better to close that hole off and weld a new bung into the decat pipe?
 

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Ah cool, so it looks like I'm good to go? Cool!

Would it be better to get a Woolich logger and auto tune anyway when I can?

Also can I fit the wideband autotune into the narroband port on the header pipes with an adapter or is it better to close that hole off and weld a new bung into the decat pipe?
Yeah, I wouldn't be concerned about any of that.

"Better" is a pretty subjective term. The autotuning functions provide you with an easy way to adjust things in the future as needed or if a dyno isn't readily available. I wouldn't say it's a better way to go, rather just another option depending on what your goals are, how quickly you want to make changes, and what you have available.

Same can can be said about the wideband sensor. If you can use an adapter to use it in the existing bung and seal it up good at that location, then it's easier to do that. But the best way would be to put a bung on each of the 4 header downtubes and tune each cylinder individually. That's the best way to go. Again, there isn't a one-size-fits-all here and is more about what you're trying to achieve and the amount of money you want to put into it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh ok cool so as it is is fine then for the time being, don't even really need a Woolich instantly?

Is there anything you'd recommend me getting with the setup the bike has or is it good as it is initially for road use and the odd track day here and there?

I like the look of the Aim MKX10 but its a lot of £££ just to bring the dash up to the competition.
 

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Oh ok cool so as it is is fine then for the time being, don't even really need a Woolich instantly?

Is there anything you'd recommend me getting with the setup the bike has or is it good as it is initially for road use and the odd track day here and there?

I like the look of the Aim MKX10 but its a lot of £££ just to bring the dash up to the competition.
You need the basic Woolich kit to derestrict the bike. You don't need the autotune setup necessarily, but that is an upgrade and doesn't preclude you from getting it to reflash and derestrict the bike overall. Aside from getting the suspension setup for your riding level and getting some seat time to get used to it, there's nothing that's needed right away. Once you get used to it, you'll figure out what you like and don't like about it.

I have the MXK10. It's more than just a fancy dash. It is a GPS lap timer and datalogger. It can provide a lot of useful information about running it on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I get the Logbox Woolich can I just not install the Autotune kit and put that stuff in at a later time if I choose to, or does the Logbox version of the Woolich need to have the Autotune kit plugged in?

Yep going to get the suspension setup as one of the first things I do at my next track day as there's a decent suspension guy there who will help me get the basics sorted then I can fine tune it.

Yeah looks pretty trick, I'm guessing I wouldn't use most of the logging stuff initially I just liked the TFT panel more than the current dash, might put that mod on hold for a bit.

Thanks!
 

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If I get the Logbox Woolich can I just not install the Autotune kit and put that stuff in at a later time if I choose to, or does the Logbox version of the Woolich need to have the Autotune kit plugged in?

Yep going to get the suspension setup as one of the first things I do at my next track day as there's a decent suspension guy there who will help me get the basics sorted then I can fine tune it.

Yeah looks pretty trick, I'm guessing I wouldn't use most of the logging stuff initially I just liked the TFT panel more than the current dash, might put that mod on hold for a bit.

Thanks!
You cannot install the autotune module later on to the basic unit. You have to purchase the Logbox unit in order to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I mean purchase the entire logbox + Autotune kit but only install the logbox and install the Autotune part later, so basically using the the logbox as the more basic Woolich unit until I can be bothered to fit the Autotune which seems like much more of a headache with welding or getting at the header pipes.

Also i know this bike has a scorpion decat on it but does anyone know if decat pipes vary in noise levels, I need something that isn't going to be too loud but I'm guessing they will all make the bike louder with the removal of the exhaust valve - if anyone knows which one is quietest that would be cool. Otherwise will see if there's a baffle for the Akra slip on somewhere.
 

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Yeah I mean purchase the entire logbox + Autotune kit but only install the logbox and install the Autotune part later, so basically using the the logbox as the more basic Woolich unit until I can be bothered to fit the Autotune which seems like much more of a headache with welding or getting at the header pipes.

Also i know this bike has a scorpion decat on it but does anyone know if decat pipes vary in noise levels, I need something that isn't going to be too loud but I'm guessing they will all make the bike louder with the removal of the exhaust valve - if anyone knows which one is quietest that would be cool. Otherwise will see if there's a baffle for the Akra slip on somewhere.
From memory, you need the logbox to use the autotune feature. But that can all be added individually as needed.

Yes, the link pipe will make it louder. It is often used with the stock muffler to increase the noise. The exhaust servo is only for noise abatement below 8,000rpm. After that, the servo fully opens the valve to derestrict it. The biggest noise increase is from removing the catalytic converter itself. That big chamber muffles the sound much more than the valve does. The quietest you'll ever have is the stock exhaust. Everything else will be louder than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gotcha, as long as its not too loud, I don't mind a louder exhaust but it gets to the point where it just hurts your ears.

Seems that the slip-on plus scorpion decat isn't too loud so might just see how it goes, can always see if Akra make a db killer if worst comes to worst.

Thanks for the help! Appreciated !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just in case its needed, does anyone know if there is a db killer insert for this slip on which I think is the one included on the Performance Edition;


Thanks in advance.
 

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I just installed my woolich autotune/log box stuff. You can buy the whole thing, and just only use the Log box for tuning until you decide to install the wideband. Using an adapter for the wideband is not typically recommended, because it’ll sit too far out of the exhaust and can cause lagged readings. You can probably pick up a different decat pipe that includes a wideband bung for ~$200, if you’re careful the narrowband sensor bung can be drilled and tapped for a wideband, or you can always take your exhaust to a knowledgeable shop and have them weld a wideband bung on, one is included with the woolich kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sweet thanks for that, are there any decat pipes that don't increase the volume at all as the Scorpion one is too much just for cruising along with the Akrapovic - I'm guessing what quietens it down is the exhaust servo though so that would be going back to the original pipework with cat.

Also rather than start a new thread, the gearbox, it feels like I'm double clicking gears is that normal? Never had a bike with an autoblipper before, if the autoblipper is turned on I can still change gears with the clutch right? Is there a reason why it feels like I'm double pressing gears? Also when I blip the throttle to change down the bike re-blips the throttle sometimes which is a bit weird! All a bit new to me!!!

Really nice though will attach a pic;

CC9569BF-B75C-440B-8A97-F170C173092F.JPG

Good fun, has a Puig double bubble screen on it, R&G Tail Tidy, Exhaust Hanger & Pillion Blanking Plate, oh and the Scorpion Decat Pipe.
 

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You can still use the clutch with an AB. If your using the autoblip around town it will shift hard in the lower rpms. It's to be used higher in the rev range. Anything below 9K will shift hard. Same with quickshifter for that matter. The autoblip is great for track at end of straights when you need to drop 1, 2, or 3 gears quickly for corner entry. It will spoil you... Sounds badass too!
 

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You can still use the clutch with an AB. If your using the autoblip around town it will shift hard in the lower rpms. It's to be used higher in the rev range. Anything below 9K will shift hard. Same with quickshifter for that matter. The autoblip is great for track at end of straights when you need to drop 1, 2, or 3 gears quickly for corner entry. It will spoil you... Sounds badass too!
Nothing better than that autoblipper screaming down from like 10k.

Yup clutch works just like normal with the qs/ab. I find that my shifting always feels better when I’m a little stout with it, if you pansy around it won’t feel as good. As stated the qs/ab also works best above like 7-8k. The harder youre riding the bike the better it’ll feel. It’s important to remember that you’re riding a full fledged race bike, one thats dominated WSBK for the past like 5 years. City shifting with the qs wasn’t super high on the priority list lol. I’d like to buy the race tools from woolich at some point to play with the qs, mainly because I think it cuts power a little too long for me when I’m giving it full beans in 2nd 3rd and 4th, but that’s kind of hit or miss so I’ve heard.

As for your noise issue, 90% of the loudness is coming from no cat. The Valve does next to nothing. Disabling the servo was actually one of the first things I did, and it gave the bike slightly more rumble from like 3k-6k, but it was barely noticeable. I would first try a dB killer first, as that’s your cheapest solution. I’m sure akra makes one, if you can’t figure it out I’d email them and ask, I hear their CS is really good. Graves makes a full system that they’re putting a valve in for low end torque I think, but again I don’t believe it really changes sound much, and the bike will still be wide open at higher RPMs. They’re also $$$. Last option would be to slap a cat back on. If you don’t have the original one for the bike, (I hope this isn’t against the rules to mention, sorry if its considered advertising or something) I have mine that I’m pulling off in the next couple days, shoot me an IM and I can send it over for a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi mate,

Thanks on the QS - just feels like I'm pushing through two clicks to shift up and down and it almost feels like even though I'm pulling in the clutch its not really working, don't know if that makes sense.

Also do you know why the bike does a second downshift blip when I've done one on the throttle before changing down then the bike blips the throttle again all on its own - but only sometimes! Its weird lol - read the manual and couldn't see anything about it?

Akra make a dB killer that will fit but not specifically made for that pipe so apparently its a VERY tight fit and basically once it goes in its not coming out. Whilst having to cut into bits of the slip-on to get it in there. Not ideal. I have got the original CAT coming to me so can fit it back if needed but thanks mate appreciate the offer.
 
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