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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What could I do to raise up my rear end, as I am running 190/50's in the rear now, I want to raise it a little, I have my preload almost all the way down but it still feels like it isnt balanced and still sits too much on the rear.
 

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Your preload shouldn't be used to adjust your rear ride height. You're losing suspension travel as a result. Just grab a few washers and stack them (one at a time) to the top shock mount. You could also raise the forks a few mm to experiment, but careful you don't screw with your swingarm angle too much.
 

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+1 to rabbit...also you could run a 190/55 rear see how you like it.

I lowered my front 3mm and am running stock eye to eye length on my rear Penske shock. I run Pilot Power 120/70 f 180/55 r on the street and 002RS 120/70 f 190/55 rear at the track. My suspension set up gives me the feel I like street/track with just tire change. I like a bit less aggressive geometry on the street. It's subtile, but I feel it. Just have to experiment and see that you like. Simply changing tire brands/sizes will make the bike behave differently.
 

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What could I do to raise up my rear end, as I am running 190/50's in the rear now, I want to raise it a little, I have my preload almost all the way down but it still feels like it isnt balanced and still sits too much on the rear.
You need to have your preload (front and rear) set up for your weight. Never use them to adjust ride height.

The tire change has lowerd the rear of your bike 4.75mm from the original height. Personally, I would slide the forks through the trees about 4-6mm. You will be at the stock geometry setup at 5mm.
 

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You need to have your preload (front and rear) set up for your weight. Never use them to adjust ride height.

The tire change has lowerd the rear of your bike 4.75mm from the original height. Personally, I would slide the forks through the trees about 4-6mm. You will be at the stock geometry setup at 5mm.
Assuming you have a 3rd Gen.:dontknow: Joining in 09 with a Burnt Orange 10, I'm thinking you do.:eek:ccasion1
 

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The tire change has lowerd the rear of your bike 4.75mm from the original height. Personally, I would slide the forks through the trees about 4-6mm. You will be at the stock geometry setup at 5mm.
Isn't 1 mil of fork adjustment roughly equal to 5 mil of rear ride height? I wouldn't go more than 2 mil to start. Then you're at the point of worrying about swingarm angle.
 

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+1 to rabbit...also you could run a 190/55 rear see how you like it.
Simply changing tire brands/sizes will make the bike behave differently.
Is it price? Why do people run 190/50 when we have 190/55????????
 

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you need to have your preload (front and rear) set up for your weight. Never use them to adjust ride height.

The tire change has lowerd the rear of your bike 4.75mm from the original height. Personally, i would slide the forks through the trees about 4-6mm. You will be at the stock geometry setup at 5mm.
+1
 

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You can buy a shim pack for the rear shock and adjust the ride height that way, or you can buy a $3 nut from your local hardware store that matches the threads on the top of the shock. Put it under the mounting bracket and sandwich the bracket with the top and bottom nuts. This will give you a lot of adjustability with the ride height and its super cheap compared to the shims.
 

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Is it price? Why do people run 190/50 when we have 190/55????????
'04-'05 10Rs come out from factory with 190/50 (at least here in europe).
I suggest you do changes and modifications step by step and check how it feels.
On mine i have changed the tyre with a 190/55 and added a few washers for a total of 6 mm and it works much better now; i come out from curbs much faster and dont have to fight with it anymore trying to keep it "inside" the curb, it just does it easier (speaking of tracks though huh?).
If you weight doesnt go over 90 Kgs i dont suggest tightening too much the preload like you said... :hello:
 

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Isn't 1 mil of fork adjustment roughly equal to 5 mil of rear ride height? I wouldn't go more than 2 mil to start. Then you're at the point of worrying about swingarm angle.
No, not with the front forks.

There is some math involved in the shimming and dog bone links on the rear.
For instance, if the holes in the links are 1/4" closer center to center, the rear
end of the bike will raise much more than that. Depending on the geometry of
the shock, link, & swingarm setup. Doing these will change your swingarm
angle slightly.

Again. Your best bet is to raise the fork tubes. Make it simple. Plus you will
be lowering the centerof gravity slightly (which I like).

FWIW, I run my forks up in the trees 4-5mm with 190/55's and 6-8mm with
180/55's. My personal preferance.

180/55's are taller (and cheaper) than 190/50's BTW
 

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'04-'05 10Rs come out from factory with 190/50 (at least here in europe).
Here too, but only because in 04-05 the only 190/55 on the market were full on race tires. Notice they dumped the 50 as soon as the 55 street tire hit the market. Another :thumbsup: to Kawi!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well I have lowerd my foks 6mm already, but the reason I am running a 50 is becuase I got it for like $60 cheaper than the 55 and the set before it was free pilot powers (which I do not like). I think I am going to get a racetech spring for my weight on the rear and it should help the bike feel more balanced.
 

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well I have lowerd my foks 6mm already, but the reason I am running a 50 is becuase I got it for like $60 cheaper than the 55 and the set before it was free pilot powers (which I do not like). I think I am going to get a racetech spring for my weight on the rear and it should help the bike feel more balanced.
hmmm how much do you weigh....we should ride together soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am looking at about 220-230 with gear. Since I got it the suspension was never balanced, the back end is always way to soft. I sit on it and the back end compresses and pivots on the front wheel with no front compression. I just want to get it balanced so I can feel confident on it, maybe one day.
 
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