Wow! That just summed up the last 4-6 months on this forum!!!!!:spit: 
***ZX-10R Owners please read...ESPECIALLY New Owners!!***
OK. I'd like to address some issues that I think keep commin up.
This is MHO, so dont freek out if you find it offensive.
FIRST:
Why does my 10r bog down below 5K? Well for one we have what we call a close ratio tranny. To help keep you from wheelieing EVERYWHERE in first due to the min of 150RWHP. The 10r was never designed with pulling away from a stop light in mind. Yes, you may have to rev her up a bit to get her rollin.
Also she's geared high from the factory. this is to keep squids from loopin the bike as you pull out of the dealership parking lot. put a 16t on the front t will help this problem. Yes it will accelerate and wheelie easier. it will also run about 500rpms higher per the same speed.
SECOND:
Which is the best exhaust for my 10R?
NO ONE CARES. There is not one perfect exhaust for the 10r. If you're lookin for extra hp you're nuts to begin with so who cares about that. If you want sound, D&D is loud and typically the shorter the pipe the louder it will be.
Get what exhaust YOU think looks best and leave it at that. it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. MOST all aftermarket exhausts will out last your time with the 10r so IMO, thats not a factor.
If you get a full system you will need a pcIII and remaping. IMHO a s/o is best for most folks.
THRID:
Which tires should I get?
IF I had to say, I'd suggest a set of PP's or the Dunlop qualifiers. If youre wanting tires that will last you more than 2K miles you bought the wrong kind of bike. Tires are more connected with saftey than folks give them credit and they're cheaper to replace then bodywork.
IE<>Dont wait till they're past the tread bars to replace them.
PSI is very important and connected with tire life. Check it regularly. TEMP changes psi. Cold tires are not always cold because of the outside temp.
FOURTH:
I think my clutch feels funny...Im missing shifts.
CHANGE YOUR OIL! If you put synthetic in your bike really earlly...IE, before 1500-2K miles...you may need to take your clutch out and soak it over night...along with your head.
If youre missing shifts and haven't changed your oil recently, git r dun.
If youre missing shifts with stock rearsets, buy some aftermarket ones and it will typically help this problem.
FIFTH:
I think my valves are tapping...
They may be...but prolly not. the 10r is noisy. Thats just how it is. If you dont like it...rev the bike up more so you cant hear it. Also, the gas tank presurizing will whistle. thats what that sound is.
SIXTH:
My 10r will barely pull up the front end....
OK. The problem isn't with the bike. my bike has pulled up wheelies at 100...in third. thats Stock. Yours will do it too.
If you really think it wont wheelie...go about 50 mph in first, chop the throtle, and then snap it wide open as fast as you can. Tell the EMS that you didn't think a 150RWHP bike woudln't pull the front end up.
***Be sure to have full coverage before trying this, on yourself and your bike...***
SEVENTH:
Which mod is the best bang for the buck?
IMHO, either the 1/5th thottle coversion for $25 or the 16t front sprocket for $40. If you spend $65 on those two things and do them at the same time you'll swear you went from a stock bike to a Factory backed SUPERBIKE. lol, I promise you that!
***if you do those two mods at the same time you're prolly gonna loop it the next time you ride...please be careful...those two mods are equivilant to about 35 more hp...***
*** I knocked over my bike trying to change the front sprocket. Try to get a rearstand before you do it...and an impact gun. w/out those two tools changing that cs will be a nightmare.***
EIGHT:
Which color is the fastest?
Black...DUH! :wink:
:zx_blk:
TENTH:
My 10R gets headshake...
yes it does. Deal with it and get a damper before you kill yourself. I've had a full on tankslapper at 160+...my GPR saved my life!
Dont grip the bars so tight...and dont land wheelies with the front tire cocked. If you do get headshake be sure to remember to pump up the front brakes. If the shakes bad enough it will push the pads away from your rotors, and if you dont pump em back up you will be faced with a very scarry surprise the next time you go to slow down.
This is MHO, so dont freek out if you find it offensive.
FIRST:
Why does my 10r bog down below 5K? Well for one we have what we call a close ratio tranny. To help keep you from wheelieing EVERYWHERE in first due to the min of 150RWHP. The 10r was never designed with pulling away from a stop light in mind. Yes, you may have to rev her up a bit to get her rollin.
Also she's geared high from the factory. this is to keep squids from loopin the bike as you pull out of the dealership parking lot. put a 16t on the front t will help this problem. Yes it will accelerate and wheelie easier. it will also run about 500rpms higher per the same speed.
SECOND:
Which is the best exhaust for my 10R?
NO ONE CARES. There is not one perfect exhaust for the 10r. If you're lookin for extra hp you're nuts to begin with so who cares about that. If you want sound, D&D is loud and typically the shorter the pipe the louder it will be.
Get what exhaust YOU think looks best and leave it at that. it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. MOST all aftermarket exhausts will out last your time with the 10r so IMO, thats not a factor.
If you get a full system you will need a pcIII and remaping. IMHO a s/o is best for most folks.
THRID:
Which tires should I get?
IF I had to say, I'd suggest a set of PP's or the Dunlop qualifiers. If youre wanting tires that will last you more than 2K miles you bought the wrong kind of bike. Tires are more connected with saftey than folks give them credit and they're cheaper to replace then bodywork.
IE<>Dont wait till they're past the tread bars to replace them.
PSI is very important and connected with tire life. Check it regularly. TEMP changes psi. Cold tires are not always cold because of the outside temp.
FOURTH:
I think my clutch feels funny...Im missing shifts.
CHANGE YOUR OIL! If you put synthetic in your bike really earlly...IE, before 1500-2K miles...you may need to take your clutch out and soak it over night...along with your head.
If youre missing shifts and haven't changed your oil recently, git r dun.
If youre missing shifts with stock rearsets, buy some aftermarket ones and it will typically help this problem.
FIFTH:
I think my valves are tapping...
They may be...but prolly not. the 10r is noisy. Thats just how it is. If you dont like it...rev the bike up more so you cant hear it. Also, the gas tank presurizing will whistle. thats what that sound is.
SIXTH:
My 10r will barely pull up the front end....
OK. The problem isn't with the bike. my bike has pulled up wheelies at 100...in third. thats Stock. Yours will do it too.
If you really think it wont wheelie...go about 50 mph in first, chop the throtle, and then snap it wide open as fast as you can. Tell the EMS that you didn't think a 150RWHP bike woudln't pull the front end up.
***Be sure to have full coverage before trying this, on yourself and your bike...***
SEVENTH:
Which mod is the best bang for the buck?
IMHO, either the 1/5th thottle coversion for $25 or the 16t front sprocket for $40. If you spend $65 on those two things and do them at the same time you'll swear you went from a stock bike to a Factory backed SUPERBIKE. lol, I promise you that!
***if you do those two mods at the same time you're prolly gonna loop it the next time you ride...please be careful...those two mods are equivilant to about 35 more hp...***
*** I knocked over my bike trying to change the front sprocket. Try to get a rearstand before you do it...and an impact gun. w/out those two tools changing that cs will be a nightmare.***
EIGHT:
Which color is the fastest?
Black...DUH! :wink:
:zx_blk:
TENTH:
My 10R gets headshake...
yes it does. Deal with it and get a damper before you kill yourself. I've had a full on tankslapper at 160+...my GPR saved my life!
Dont grip the bars so tight...and dont land wheelies with the front tire cocked. If you do get headshake be sure to remember to pump up the front brakes. If the shakes bad enough it will push the pads away from your rotors, and if you dont pump em back up you will be faced with a very scarry surprise the next time you go to slow down.
1 - 3 of 385 Posts
danno22 said:Good write up Hill, Kawi should incorporate it into the owners manual:ayyy:
WTF!! This things comes with a owners MANUAL???????????????:idea:
There is another one that just came up....
600 mile service.....
How much does it cost?? And is it necessary???:dontknow:
600 mile service.....
How much does it cost?? And is it necessary???:dontknow:
1 - 3 of 385 Posts
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