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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I have an zx10r year 2017.
Im using FTEcu software and bike bench harness.

i wanted to ask if someone have images ready so he can share with me?
if im not mistaken its the same ecu as the 2016 model
and there are couple of settings that i dont exactly know what it means like

Air Switching Valve does it equal to AIS Valve?
if i disable this valve there is a need to remove it physically from the bike?

same question for Intake Air Valve

also if someone can help me understand more about the fuel maps and how to adjust them it will be great.
or maybe explanation about everything.



thanks! :smile2:
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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All valves should be set to False. You should flash the following:
Rev Limiters: 14000 (auto-adjusted)
PC Fuel Import: leave this alone unless you want to upload some generic hand-me-down PCV map from the website...
Top Speed Limiter: False
Injector Decel Cut: False
FI code limp mode: True
O2 Sensor: False
EVAP Valve (Charcoal Canister): False
Air Switching Valve (AIS Unit): False
Intake Air Valve (Intake Flap): False
Exhaust Valve (Butterfly Valve): False
QS sensor GP (pull): False (or True if you want GP shift)
Wheelspeed Sensors: True
 

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To add more fuel, you're going to want to +/- fuel in the Fuel section under MAP vs RPM. TPS vs RPM would probably only be useful for strictly drag racing, where you're WOT all the time. Trim By Gear can only be done with a dyno.. basically would have to dyno in gears 1-6 and have 6 different fuel maps. Injector proportioning is useless because you'll never run out of fuel on the stock injectors while you're naturally aspirated.

Don't screw with ignition unless you're cam'd or using a thinner head gasket. Throttle-by-wire could be tampered with maybe. If you open up some of the Throttle Limits you'll see some misc numbers mixed in with the array of 100s. You could set those misc 90-somethings to 100 in gears 2-6. Don't touch KEBC. If you want to adjust your engine breaking when KEBC is off, you can adjust your ETV Idle/Decel table in minuscule adjustments at a time. The higher the number the more wheelspin you'll have (less engine braking).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To add more fuel, you're going to want to +/- fuel in the Fuel section under MAP vs RPM. TPS vs RPM would probably only be useful for strictly drag racing, where you're WOT all the time. Trim By Gear can only be done with a dyno.. basically would have to dyno in gears 1-6 and have 6 different fuel maps. Injector proportioning is useless because you'll never run out of fuel on the stock injectors while you're naturally aspirated.

Don't screw with ignition unless you're cam'd or using a thinner head gasket. Throttle-by-wire could be tampered with maybe. If you open up some of the Throttle Limits you'll see some misc numbers mixed in with the array of 100s. You could set those misc 90-somethings to 100 in gears 2-6. Don't touch KEBC. If you want to adjust your engine breaking when KEBC is off, you can adjust your ETV Idle/Decel table in minuscule adjustments at a time. The higher the number the more wheelspin you'll have (less engine braking).
ok thanks.
and another question how i increase the fuel in IDLE because i have full system Yoshimura Alpha
and at idle the bike running rough like the rpms is playing to much how can i adjust it?
 

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Was just on the FT Software last night and realized they use enable/disable not true/false... but you get the idea.
If by rough you mean like struggling to keep the RPMs up, and your problem is at true idle, 0-mph, you can bump up the fueling from 0 to 3000RPM until you hit the sweet spot. Just make +1% increments; there should be a drop-down that allows you to switch from whole numbers to %.

If your problem is just whenever you pull the clutch in the RPMs hit zero then that would be something to tune in the TPS vs RPM map. At 0% throttle, all the time, we know we've got a lack of fueling so you can bump that section up in +1% increments instead.

Any changes you make be sure to carry them over to each cylinder. There should be another drop down at the top of the map that says "apply to all cylinders" or something.

If you're still having issues perhaps investing in the ActiveTune would be a good move. Just set your target A/F conservatively, 14-13.5 or something and just let the butt dyno determine what the best AFR is for your bike/mods. Me, I just used the recommended AFR map FTECU provides and then bumped almost everything up 2.5%. You won't have to go in there and screw with certain gears or cylinders... the ActiveTune can be set to a live mode where it makes adjustments as you actually ride so you're at your target AFR tolerances throughout your ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To add more fuel, you're going to want to +/- fuel in the Fuel section under MAP vs RPM. TPS vs RPM would probably only be useful for strictly drag racing, where you're WOT all the time. Trim By Gear can only be done with a dyno.. basically would have to dyno in gears 1-6 and have 6 different fuel maps. Injector proportioning is useless because you'll never run out of fuel on the stock injectors while you're naturally aspirated.

Don't screw with ignition unless you're cam'd or using a thinner head gasket. Throttle-by-wire could be tampered with maybe. If you open up some of the Throttle Limits you'll see some misc numbers mixed in with the array of 100s. You could set those misc 90-somethings to 100 in gears 2-6. Don't touch KEBC. If you want to adjust your engine breaking when KEBC is off, you can adjust your ETV Idle/Decel table in minuscule adjustments at a time. The higher the number the more wheelspin you'll have (less engine braking).
Was just on the FT Software last night and realized they use enable/disable not true/false... but you get the idea.
If by rough you mean like struggling to keep the RPMs up, and your problem is at true idle, 0-mph, you can bump up the fueling from 0 to 3000RPM until you hit the sweet spot. Just make +1% increments; there should be a drop-down that allows you to switch from whole numbers to %.

If your problem is just whenever you pull the clutch in the RPMs hit zero then that would be something to tune in the TPS vs RPM map. At 0% throttle, all the time, we know we've got a lack of fueling so you can bump that section up in +1% increments instead.

Any changes you make be sure to carry them over to each cylinder. There should be another drop down at the top of the map that says "apply to all cylinders" or something.

If you're still having issues perhaps investing in the ActiveTune would be a good move. Just set your target A/F conservatively, 14-13.5 or something and just let the butt dyno determine what the best AFR is for your bike/mods. Me, I just used the recommended AFR map FTECU provides and then bumped almost everything up 2.5%. You won't have to go in there and screw with certain gears or cylinders... the ActiveTune can be set to a live mode where it makes adjustments as you actually ride so you're at your target AFR tolerances throughout your ride.
Thanks Alot! youre a life saver,
just last question where i can adjust in the ftecu the idle RPMs? i cant see that?
you talking about incrementing the MAP vs RPM by 1%?
 

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I'm not sure how to actually raise the RPM in the FT software. Shoot them an email and they should respond fairly quickly.
And every bike is different what works for my bike might not work for yours so 1% increments in fueling should clean things up. If you're not super comfy adjusting tables just flash in a Graves-tune but upload your own fuel map from the Power Commander website. If none of those maps are working out (they're pretty generic) then maybe the next step is either hitting the dyno or investing in the ActiveTune. I might be doing some studies with the active tune this summer because it doesn't seem like anyone on here has really utilized it to it's full potential on specifically the Gen5.
 
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