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Edit: I did as suggested. My CCT was 8 ticks out from fully compressed. I've tried 9 ticks and 10 ticks but noticed no difference in engine sound so I put it back to 8 and accepted that I need to further investigate the issue.
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Question for Micheal: can I replace the valve retainers without dropping the engine from the frame on my gen 1 like I've seen gen 2 owners do or there's no way around it?

Also I'm still unsure if I should go with gen 1 upgraded retainers "120090010" (gen formerly had 120090003 which are now discontinued) or gen 3 "120090017" or carpenter/kibblewhite stainless steel retainers. I would like to keep the stock springs.
 

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I'm sorry to be seeing it's not your tensioner. The ticking noise, you say it's right lower side (timing chain side) can you record it and post it up? Damaged worn chain, damaged worn guides, damaged worn starter gear. Depending on the ticking it could also be a header gas leak. If the noise is resonating, it could be higher and it normally is, retainer damage, valve guide worn or damaged valve head and stem worn or damaged giving a massive valve lash gap. The retainers can only be swapped out the valves and guides checked with the cylinder head removed, you don't have to drop the engine but consideration should be given to the long term plans for the bike, maybe total re-fresh and possibly a build for the engine is the way forward. The retainer choice for me would be down to cost and availability, new is obviously better than second hand you can easily see damage if buying second hand. I have a set Carpenter retainers from several years ago I'm not to impressed with them to be honest the spring doesn't have a full seat on them the diameter is smaller than stock, kibblewhite retainers I have never seen so cannot comment. G3 retainers would be my choice. Your next step should be to diagnose the location of the noise a little better if you can, a stethoscope helps.
 

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I'm sorry to be seeing it's not your tensioner. The ticking noise, you say it's right lower side (timing chain side) can you record it and post it up? Damaged worn chain, damaged worn guides, damaged worn starter gear. Depending on the ticking it could also be a header gas leak. If the noise is resonating, it could be higher and it normally is, retainer damage, valve guide worn or damaged valve head and stem worn or damaged giving a massive valve lash gap. The retainers can only be swapped out the valves and guides checked with the cylinder head removed, you don't have to drop the engine but consideration should be given to the long term plans for the bike, maybe total re-fresh and possibly a build for the engine is the way forward. The retainer choice for me would be down to cost and availability, new is obviously better than second hand you can easily see damage if buying second hand. I have a set Carpenter retainers from several years ago I'm not to impressed with them to be honest the spring doesn't have a full seat on them the diameter is smaller than stock, kibblewhite retainers I have never seen so cannot comment. G3 retainers would be my choice. Your next step should be to diagnose the location of the noise a little better if you can, a stethoscope helps.
Upon further inspection, the sound seems to come from the very top of the engine. I tried putting my ear on to bottom left and bottom right but it's far louder when I put my ear on top of the bike near the tank. It seems to be coming from below the tank and air box.

Here's a video with the audio.


I can get kibblewhite or 3rd gen for roughly the same price both brand new that is but I think I'm going with 3rd gen based on your suggestion. Even if it's not the retainers, it would be peace of mind. Eversince i own the bike, everytime I redline her there's that thought about the retainers in the back of my head.
 

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I did this the other day. Left in 5th gear, turned the motor off, and rolled it back about 3 or 4 feet. Now no more ticking noise and it has been 2 weeks. I am so much happier now, the bike now sounds badass like it should. Thanks for the tip!
Just did this, except I rolled mine back 6-8 feet in 5th gear and the noise has gone away!👍 Mine wasn't really loud, but noticeable. Thanks very much.:eek:ccasion1
Just want to clarify this procedure is done with the motor OFF, correct?

Is this with key to the OFF position, 5th Gear, clutch in, roll back > 5 Feet?

Is this with key to start position (lights on, not running), 5th Gear, clutch in, roll back > 5 Feet?

What could make this an EXCELLENT post is someone making a short 60 second video and posting to YouTube of the proper procedure and hear the results as well.

I am sure many others who may not be on the Forum would love to know.
 

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Yes the motor must be off, it is easier to find a high gear (5th) with the gear position indicator functioning (ignition on) in terms off rolling backwards yes it must be backwards not forwards, in terms of 5 feet well it doesn't need to be measured but you should create as much as possible backwards before dumping the clutch whilst in a high gear 5th gear will do. You are trying to use the backward motion to whip the timing chain so the tensioner is temporarily unloaded enabling it move outwards a click under the pressure of its own spring. This method is very hit and miss you don't know if it has taken up another notch or not.
 

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Let me know if you can see it.
Czano yes i got the link, but i am not hearing a ticking sound but more a deeper abrasive mechanical sound possibly a blow by type sound. How is the tune on the bike, is it stock, or has it flashed - dyno tuned any mods on bike? How is the oil is it clean looking and fresh how many miles with that oil.
 

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I think i would start with shim gap check (valve lash) its possibly tight specs which result in that throtty running rough blowby type sound,your going to check the retainers at same time so that's a win win. It doesn't sound like (to me) valve guide, bucket or cam issues, or cam chain issues. But there are no guarantees, but start by shim check and looking those retainers over.
 

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Thanks for your precious time. The bike was Dyno tuned directly into the ECU ( no power commander). I had a full exhaust and air filter and she would sputter and run rough. With the tune she went from 146 to 156hp and she now runs great, no complaints whatsoever about how she runs. She's very smooth. The oil is 1 year old and I've done about 7000km with it and i already bought an oil change and I'm ready to do it after the retainer job.

With shim gap check you mean valve clearance right? Valve clearance was done at about 34000 km and I'm now at 40000km. The shop told me only 2 valves where out of spec. I've ordered a thickness gauge to perform a check once I get under the air box.

I'm very glad to hear from you and learn that the sound is not as bad as anticipated. I guess the next step is to get my hands deep in there and check for my self.
 

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Thanks for your precious time. The bike was Dyno tuned directly into the ECU ( no power commander). I had a full exhaust and air filter and she would sputter and run rough. With the tune she went from 146 to 156hp and she now runs great, no complaints whatsoever about how she runs. She's very smooth. The oil is 1 year old and I've done about 7000km with it and i already bought an oil change and I'm ready to do it after the retainer job.

With shim gap check you mean valve clearance right? Valve clearance was done at about 34000 km and I'm now at 40000km. The shop told me only 2 valves where out of spec. I've ordered a thickness gauge to perform a check once I get under the air box.

I'm very glad to hear from you and learn that the sound is not as bad as anticipated. I guess the next step is to get my hands deep in there and check for my self.
There's not much of a visual difference with the retainers but when you look at yours the original G1's are pictured left in both pictures, the G3 uprated are on the right of both pictures.
 

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Thanks for the comparison pictures, they are very much appreciated. I've decided to order gen 3 retainers with code 12009-0017. I decided to ditch the carpenter/kibblewhite idea due to the fact that they are made out of steel instead of alluminum and are a tad bit heavier. Not to mention it would take me aproximately a month to get them in Europe all the way from the USA. Price would have been pretty much the same but I'm going OEM and I know I won't be disappointed and I'll get a direct fit.

I hope I won't have to adjust the valve clearance of all 16 valves due to the extra thickness that the gen 3 retainers seem to have. Shims are 14$ each over here!
 
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