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TDH, All, I am on the Excel Spreadsheet and for some reason, I cannot find the Blipper menu: Time(ms) and TPS(%). What menu does this fall under? Is this found in Race Tools only? (2017 ZX-10RR).

I found IAP and TPS in the FUEL MAPS menu. Good Check, No feedback needed.

Race ETV: Does this get changed in the OTHER MAPS menu, by each individual gear?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Okay. I went into Race Tools and enabled Quickshifter and Autoblipper. Then I found the Maps submenu on the right, but it only has Autoblipper TPS Opening % and Autoblipper Target RPM. I do not see Time (ms). Am I overlooking something?

The submenu also has:
Quickshifter (ms) Gear 1-2
Quickshifter (ms) Gear 2-3
Etc........................................3-4
Etc........................................4-5
Etc........................................5-6
 

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Above Advanced settings on the main screen is the Autoblipper button. If you click on that and activate the factory Autoblipper the rpm and time between shifts is available to change and lower down you can change the shift time in ms and the TPS in each gear and 1000rpm. Mine is a 2016 though, doesn't the 2018 already have an Autoblipper? Maybe your version of Woolich doesn't have the Autoblipper button? View attachment 444216 View attachment 444217
I just realized that my version of Race Tools for 2017 ZX-10RR does NOT have Autoblipper on the Main Menu (as seen in the 1st photo above) and therefore, I do NOT have an Autoblipper submenu that allows for Autoblipper Opening Time (ms) as seen in the 2nd photo. Any idea why?
 

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I just realized that my version of Race Tools for 2017 ZX-10RR does NOT have Autoblipper on the Main Menu (as seen in the 1st photo above) and therefore, I do NOT have an Autoblipper submenu that allows for Autoblipper Opening Time (ms) as seen in the 2nd photo. Any idea why?
That is only on there for the ECU version from 2016-2018. Because the 2019+ models came with the autoblipper already enabled from Kawasaki, it changed the firmware and it's not a submenu like the rest of us have. Because your RR came with it already enabled as well, it's probably the same way. Those maps are likely buried under 'other maps' button and dropdown menu there.
 

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Thank you for that info. I believe what you are saying is the same as what Woolich tech is saying; in that the ECUs feom.10R and RR are different and that only the 10Rs have that Autoblipper sub-menu. Still don't understand why though, since it could apply and work the same for the RR. However,Woolich tech said that is where Race Tools comes into play and allows much more freedom in tuning the sub-menus. But still, I think the Autoblipper Opening Time (ms) could be added to the drop down menu as an option. Perhaps it is not necessary given the other two options, and that is where I don't fully understand the similarities or differences between the two. If what I have in Race Tools is far superior, it is also far difficult to manage. I prefer the simplicity of TDHs Excel Spreadsheet vs the overwhelming options found in Race Tools. Speaking of which,has anyone perfected their Race Tools Autoblipper RPM mapping? Seems like a chore and I am not very familiar or tech smart to mess with it. I wouldn't even know where to begin.
 

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Thank you for that info. I believe what you are saying is the same as what Woolich tech is saying; in that the ECUs feom.10R and RR are different and that only the 10Rs have that Autoblipper sub-menu. Still don't understand why though, since it could apply and work the same for the RR. However,Woolich tech said that is where Race Tools comes into play and allows much more freedom in tuning the sub-menus. But still, I think the Autoblipper Opening Time (ms) could be added to the drop down menu as an option. Perhaps it is not necessary given the other two options, and that is where I don't fully understand the similarities or differences between the two. If what I have in Race Tools is far superior, it is also far difficult to manage. I prefer the simplicity of TDHs Excel Spreadsheet vs the overwhelming options found in Race Tools. Speaking of which,has anyone perfected their Race Tools Autoblipper RPM mapping? Seems like a chore and I am not very familiar or tech smart to mess with it. I wouldn't even know where to begin.
Can you post a screenshot of the settings you have for that? It would be interesting to compare that against the different version with those settings.

When I enable the Race Tools and turn the autoblipper on through that, the settings are available just in a different format. The RPM-based TPS % values and Target RPM values should be very close to what TDH posted. You should be able to cut-n-paste the TPS % values directly. Then see how it responds with the Target RPM values already on there. If the lurch is still there, figure out when it happens (all gears at lower RPM? Gear 4->3 between 9k and 6k?) , and drop those values down a bit for the Target RPM in those cells in the table.

Here's the difference between them that I see....

446366

446365
 

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Sky, I was watching a video on Woolich and even their video shows something different. I wrote the tech. Pending his response. But here is the video:

If you notice, his Main Menu does NOT show an Autoblipper menu above Race Tools. Yet, in his Autoblipper drop down sub-menus, he has 1-6 Gears and 3 options. I only have two options.

See screenshots.

Woolich Racing video Main Menu is the same as mine; both missing Autoblipper Menu.

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My Autoblipper menu gears plus 2 options
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Woolich Racing Autoblipper menu gears plus 3 options.

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My options zoomed in, I am missing Autoblipper Duration (ms).
446371
 

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Yeah, your Race Tools looks just like mine does. That's what I was expecting to see. Yes, it's different than the other settings that are shown, but the opening time in milliseconds is replaced by the Target RPM value. Same thing I'm seeing when the Race Tools settings are enabled there.
 

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So in your experience, do you think this is less efficient for mapping the Autoblipper?

And that question aside, is it more difficult to complete?

It seems like an overwhelming task and I've yet to find anyone who has "mastered" these values.

Heck, I just learned yesterday how to measure the circumference of my tire and input that data. Hahaha

I think what is overwhelming me the most in the Autoblipper is the amount of RPMs vs Throttle Percentages. I just can't remember all that stuff while riding.

Have you played around with the settings? Any noticeable changes?

Do you think Race Tools was worth the $$$? Any areas you suggest to pay close attention to as the most beneficial sub-menus/values to work on?
 

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Nope, I wouldn't say it's less efficient or anything like that. It's just a different way of doing the same thing. Depending on how you're looking at it, it's easier or harder just in understanding the values and how they're used. The goal is the same and they both accomplish that. It's just 2 different ways to do the same thing and the values can't be cut and pasted directly.

Just start with the opening % values and see what it does. You can make further adjustments based on that to tweak it from there. Just takes some playing around with it which is all part of dialing it in. Trial and error is a valid method and that's what it takes sometimes.


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I am on YouTube watching many of these lame videos on how to ise Woolich I've watched about 7 on the Launch Control and all they are is videos of people launching, not necessarily explaining the Mwnu, Sub-menus, or what anything does and what the end result achieves. Hahaha. They just show the end result while skipping Points A, B, C, D, E, F, and G...... Hahah.

I am still trying ro figure out where the Manuals and Directions are for Race Tools. I certainly hope it is more detailed than their YouTube videos. Hahaha. I am learning more from you than anything!! You are greatly appreciated!!
 

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Nope, they tell you how to find the menus and navigate the software. They don't tell you how to tune it and what the values are for it or what they should be. That's knowledge gained elsewhere with a different understanding. Microsoft Word directions you where the application controls are, not how to write a book. Think of it like that with this too.


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Well, I just saw a video posted from somewhere in the land down under. They kind of showed the launch control settings and I figure I have nothing to lose at least trying it. I'll let you know how THAT goes!! Hopefully, not from the ICU!! HAHAHA
 

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Hey Sky, here is something for your feedback.

Tire size mm. I was off 3mph at 50 mph. I input the correct tire size mm front and rear, for 74 inches and 80 inches, and now GPS shows I am off by 4 mph.

Do you know exactly what the tire mm is used for in Race Tools?

If going up to proper tire sizing increased the difference by 1 mph, totaling 4 mph over, I am wondering if I reduce it by 3x the amount, my speedometer and gps will be synched 50 mph and 50 mph. Not 50 mph speedo and 46 mph gps.

In addition, my quickshifter is now working again. But there is a hesitation between shifts, even worse when I ramp it up hard.

To minimize this hesitation, which menu should I work with first?

Autoblipper TPS Opening % or
Autoblipper Target RPM or
Quickshifter 1,2,3,4,5,6?

My downshifts are good. So I suspect I should work on the quickshifters one gear at a time? Or all gears, 5 or 10ms at a time?

Thoughts?
 

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The tire size can be used to correct the speedometer a little bit, but that's not it's primary purpose. The tire size in there has more to do with the traction control intervention. It's used to offset the differences between the front and rear tire sized used in racing to help dial in the TC because of the differences between them. The speed is determined by the rear wheel rotation only. So, if that's what you're trying to to do with it, that's a different goal. You also need to understand what that's all about and make changes accordingly in the right direction. Remember, a large circumference circle will travel farther than a smaller circumference circle if the number of rotations is the same. The speed is calculated and shown based on counting how many times the wheel spins around with a certain circumference that touches the ground.

With that in mind, if the speed displayed is higher than actual speed, then it's calculating it based on a circumference that's too large. Converting and entering 74in and 80in better be more precise than a whole number like that and you'd need to know if that's more or less than the starting values you overwrote. Since the speed was reading higher than actual, you'd have to lower the rear value from the original one. You can do the math ease enough if go through it all to figure out how many counts one rotation is from the sensor ring, or just play with the numbers. But you went the wrong direction from that based on the increase you saw as a result. If you want the TC to respond the same way, then you'd have to adjust the front circumference by the same ratio you apply to the rear. Easy peezy!

As far as the quickshifter hesitation goes, you shouldn't be adjusting anything in the autoblip tables. Those only deal with the downshift. Quickshift is only for acceleration. They are separate things and if the autoblip is good, don't touch anything there. If the hesitation is for all the gears, adjust all the values at the same time by small increments to see if it gets better or worse and go from there. If the hesitation is on in 1 or 2 gear changes, then look at those specific table values and adjust those slightly without touching the other ones. Start with the basic changes across the spectrum of that table and then you can narrow it down to individual RPM settings once you find something that works good for most of it, but not necessarily everything. It's a process.
 

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Good morning brother. Excellent response, as always. Thank you.

And I should have provided more data, such as initial tyre mm input data to the ECU. This is where it all began:

Race Tools Initial Entry (Data Origin Unknown)
Front 1868mm / Rear 1967mm
Speedometer at 50 mph
GPS Reading is 47 mph
Dyno also showed 47 mph

True S22 Tire Circumference (measured brand new) with fiberglass tape:
Front 1880 mm (74") (+12mm)
Rear 2032 mm (80") (+65mm)
Speedometer at 50 mph
GPS Reading is 46 mph

New MPH Test Idea:
Minus 12mm from Front = 1856mm
Minus 65mm from Back = 1902mm
Speedometer Reading at 50 mph
GPS reading is (to be determined, but I suspect it 'could' be 48 mph)

Or, am I doing it all wrong because the initial Woolich Racing tyre data origin is unknown, and I should work backwards off my true known S22 circumference measurements of 1880mm and 2032mm? Because I don't know if the initial data was proportionally correct, whereas, what I measured is (74/80 or 1880/2032).

I will leave the Autoblipper alone and work on the Quickshifter, by Gear, and keep it simple.

Do you suggest do DECREASE Quickshifter values by 1ms increments (lots of flashing), or start with decreasing the Quickshifter values by 5ms for each test?

You know, I am learning so much more from you than Woolich Racing. I asked these questions and they told me to read the instructions and manuals, that are vague at best. And none of their videos cover this in a certain level of detail why it is important, like you did for my tire circumference values in relation to speed, speedometer readings, and how it effects the traction control, which is very important for me.

Is there a simple formula or calculator tool you know of that can help me dial back the tire mm and keep it in perfect front/rear ratio? I am not good with that kind of math. Front 1880mm. Rear 2032mm. Not to mention, I wonder how much difference the mm's would be when the tires are worn down. Then I could use the difference between the two as my "happy medium." See how much I am learning from you!! Thank you again brother. So grateful for your knowledge and assistance.
 

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Yup, that explains it! If you mounted a larger size tire than stock, the actual speed will go DOWN than what it's showing. That's why you're seeing those results.

Remember, Woolich doesn't give you any "initial" settings. Those values are what is originally read in from the ECU from Kawasaki the first time you do anything. So those initial values are all based on the information in the ECU from Kawi based on the tire size that comes with the bike new and has the safety factor built in. So the traction control algorithms are all based on that ratio.

I would start with the original values in there and decrease the rear number from that to get the speed corrected. The original numbers show a 5.3% difference. Your tires show an 8% delta between them. To correct the speed 3mph, it will take a significant reduction from 1967. It should be more than 65mm. I'd have to do more math myself to get a better number than that. Once you find the value to show the speed for what you're happy with, then apply the % difference from your measurements. But that will be 8% smaller on the front number than the rear number you entered. Start simple and enter 1900 for the rear and 1,748 for the rear. That keeps the 8% difference, but should correct the speed better. You're going to have to go more than that to see 3mph, but keep dropping both in the same proportion.

As for the quickshifter, it will depend on what you consider a "hesitation" when shifting. If the interrupt time is too much, the bike will slow down for a moment before it reengages. If the time is too short, the gears will clunk or it will give you a false neutral or pop out of gear when the power comes back in. If you're talking about the first scenario and not referencing a hesitation in the shift peddle, then you should start decreasing the time slightly. Start with a 5ms drop in those gears. That should improve it and you can then work forward or backwards with 1ms increments after that.
 

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Sky, I did a little more digging and learning. The previous "unknown" tire numbers of 1868mm and 1967mm are in fact, what was read from the stock ECU. I just confirmed by uploading the stock ECU data to verify. Sorry. I did not think of that sooner. And now that I consider this, those original ECU tire numbers were with stock tires, the Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP. While I never measured or validated their circumference, I did for my current S22 setup. Now that we know the original values were 1868mm and 1967mm, does my new set of tires at 1880mm and 2032 keep the same percentage/delta?

And to clarify what you stated above, you are suggesting to only lower the rear wheel mm value, not the front, in order to dial-in/correct the speedometer to GPS discrepancy?

So if I lowered my front and rear values together (keeping same percwntage/delta), the speedometer margin of error technically will never change because I am still keeping the percentage/delta between front and rear tires regardless how much I lower or raise the mm values. Is that correct?

Lastly, the bike hesitates between shifts not due to the foot shifter, but most likely based on the Quickshifter ms values. Do you suspect "Disable Acceleration Fuel Compensation" has something to do with that? Right now, it is 'checked' in Race Tools (meaning it is disabled).
 

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I think I am understanding you now. I used an online tool to identify the 8.09% differences from front minus 8.09% and rear minus 8.09% and got those new numbers to input the mm values, which retain an 8.09% difference between front and rear. And you are saying downward adjust from there while keeping 8.09% ratio until the speedometer mph gets dialed in to match GPS mph?

And these lower mm numbers won't effect traction control or anything?

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