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Also might be easy to see in the actual numbers. The problem is the drastic jump between 10 and 12% TPS in the stock 2nd and 3rd gear ETV map:

444221


vs nice smooth difference between the same range on the race map. I left neutral stock but used this map from the race ECU on all 6 gears. Notice very little change between 10 and 12% TPS:

444222
 

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Did you mean why do I have the "Disable Deceleration Fuel Cut" box checked and not the "Disable Acceleration Fuel Compensation" box? That's a good question. I see mention of it here:


Just an oversight on my part and thanks for pointing that out. Will dig into that!
 

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Did you mean why do I have the "Disable Deceleration Fuel Cut" box checked and not the "Disable Acceleration Fuel Compensation" box? That's a good question. I see mention of it here:


Just an oversight on my part and thanks for pointing that out. Will dig into that!
That's the one, I was reading that exact post and trying to figure out why......

Cool I reflashed my ECU with it checked and unchecked the purge valve. I will give it a test run to work today!

Cheers
 

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What I'm I missing?

Here's a link to spreadsheet with my current ETC, Fuel, Blipper, Quickshifter maps (LibreOffice Calc format, LibreOffice is a free):

http://knauerracing.com/files/ZX10R-Woolich-MyMaps.ods

I don't understand the values for the auto blipper table time MS. I get the TPS % opening. Can anyone help steer me in the right direction? Also where are tdh's quick shifter settings?
 

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What I'm I missing?

Here's a link to spreadsheet with my current ETC, Fuel, Blipper, Quickshifter maps (LibreOffice Calc format, LibreOffice is a free):

http://knauerracing.com/files/ZX10R-Woolich-MyMaps.ods

I don't understand the values for the auto blipper table time MS. I get the TPS % opening. Can anyone help steer me in the right direction? Also where are tdh's quick shifter settings?
Maybe... I know those settings are for a 2016 so it only has autoblipper settings. The ms is the time it cuts the autoblipper. If you have the standard settings the figures are double hence the lurch forward feeling on downshifts. Put those in and it's butter smooth all the time on downshifts. Those are Tdh settings I gather.

I don't have Woolich race tools but similar to the autoblipper settings would work on the upshift QS.

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Maybe... I know those settings are for a 2016 so it only has autoblipper settings. The ms is the time it cuts the autoblipper. If you have the standard settings the figures are double hence the lurch forward feeling on downshifts. Put those in and it's butter smooth all the time on downshifts. Those are Tdh settings I gather.

I don't have Woolich race tools but similar to the autoblipper settings would work on the upshift QS.

Cheers
 

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Thanks Ashley! I was getting ahead of myself and spaced, I have a 2017 ZX10RR. I was just wondering if there was any quick shifter settings in the excel link. been trying to dial in the racetools settings and I'm having a hell of a time getting it to shift smooth. Can't wait to try these Auto blipper settings! :) Thanks for taking the time to fill me in. Stay safe during this madness that's going on at the moment!
 

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No worries!

Woolich are very helpful if you ask them for advice. They said smoother shifts need longer times in ms which I found to be the opposite. Before I found TDH settings that you have I changed my ms to 60 ms on all gears and it felt fantastic compared to the 100+ ms slow shifting.

Try 50 to 60ms on the quickshifter upshift. If it's anything like the butter smooth downshift feeling you will love it.

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Thanks Ashley! I was getting ahead of myself and spaced, I have a 2017 ZX10RR. I was just wondering if there was any quick shifter settings in the excel link. been trying to dial in the racetools settings and I'm having a hell of a time getting it to shift smooth. Can't wait to try these Auto blipper settings! :) Thanks for taking the time to fill me in. Stay safe during this madness that's going on at the moment!
How did you go with Race Tools?
I bought it for my 2015 Yamaha R1M to get the autoblipper & added an Autotune setup to see if that can beat my original dyno tune map made in 2016.

But I am hearing you about the Quickshifter/Autoblipper settings in Race Tools. I thought the standard Woolich settings would be good but they are rubbish. All shifts up or down were clunk, occasional smooth but zero consistency. I thought I could just copy and paste my ZX10R settings across.........
I am getting there

How did you go?
 

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Im in testing with my bike. I just know if you open the ETVs 2 early you create a dip in power...
Back from the dead.....

Based on what you are saying above, the ETV must be opened steady and progressively or there will be a lag in acceleration?

The map I am using now is kind of aggressive, in that it goes 100% at 23 from 3000 down to 14000 and straight across to the right. It seems like there is a lagging "ramp up" between 5k and 9k before it really hits and hold steady at WOT after 9K. I am sure there needs to be a ramp up factor, but would it take as much as 4,000 RPMs to get there quickly? Between 4K and 9K, I am thinking it feels slower than it should feel. It should hit harder, more crisper and responsive. Maybe it's just me....

Could this be an ETV issue if the blades are opening to 100% too soon?

Are you stating a dip in power, as in HP and Torque numbers, acceleration power, or both?

I am trying to understand the ETV Map.

Thanks in advance MPP12!!
 

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The ETV map is a digital throttle cable. It's for how the throttle responds to the grip. It has nothing to do with the actual power. If you twist the throttle grip to fill open as fast as you can, you would expect the throttle to respond the same way. That's all it does.
 

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The ETV map is a digital throttle cable. It's for how the throttle responds to the grip. It has nothing to do with the actual power. If you twist the throttle grip to fill open as fast as you can, you would expect the throttle to respond the same way. That's all it does.
Correct. But based on what MPP said above, that if they are "open too early", it creates a "dip in power." Sort of like blowing a paper ball with a garden hose verse a soda straw. I think what he is saying is, the digital map needs to be "dialed in" or the throttle could bog down. When I wrap my throttle it does not snap or respond crisply. I seems to lag, finding it's way to the RPM powerband that is currently dialed in. I am looking at various maps. I am sure some others have perfected an ETV Map for best performance/responsiveness. I'd like to try their ETV Maps.

The Kawasaki "Race" ETV is floating around from TDH but I think others have capitalized on that map and made it smoother or even more responsive.

Stock 2017 ZX10RR ETV
Colorfulness Slope Rectangle Plot Line



TDH/Kawasaki "Race ECU" ETV
Colorfulness Rectangle Slope Purple Font



Something I been doing to smooth out the TDH/Race ETV above; NOT TESTED
Colorfulness Rectangle Slope Plot Font
 

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Correct. But based on what MPP said above, that if they are "open too early", it creates a "dip in power." Sort of like blowing a paper ball with a garden hose verse a soda straw. I think what he is saying is, the digital map needs to be "dialed in" or the throttle could bog down. When I wrap my throttle it does not snap or respond crisply. I seems to lag, finding it's way to the RPM powerband that is currently dialed in. I am looking at various maps. I am sure some others have perfected an ETV Map for best performance/responsiveness. I'd like to try their ETV Maps.
OK, let me try to rephrase it and make it clearer.

The ETV has nothing to do with power. All of that has to do with the tuning for the fueling and ignition. The ETV is simply a relationship from the throttle grip to the actual throttle valve. It will feel different to different riders if they are used to the older bikes without ride-by-wire. In the old days, the throttle grip was 1-to-1 with the throttle. If I twist the grip to half throttle, the throttle opened halfway and the engine accelerated at half throttle. Now, it's not that way and it can be annoying. It has nothing to do with opening too early or creating some dip in power. I think you're misreading MPP's post.

If you twist the throttle grip expecting power, but the throttle only opens a tiny bit from that, then you will think it's a "dip in power" . That's a subjective term and not reality because you've twisted the grip a lot and the throttle didn't open the same amount. Look at all the graphs you posted. The throttle doesn't go to full open until 6000 RPM regardless of how much you twist it. Why don't you want the throttle to open 100% at 5000 RPM if you command it that way??? Answer is...Kawasaki softened that initial throttle application a bit for new riders on the street and to help the racers who whack the throttle in a tight corner while leaned over. The throttle simply doesn't do what you are expecting when you twist the grip. The ETV map is used to override the rider when it wants to. In the stock map, the ECU closes the throttle slightly at 11,000 RPM to restrict the speed. And the throttle doesn't open very much at all right off idle. Very annoying but doesn't have to do with power output, the throttle is just closed.

There is no dip in power if the throttle is opened too quickly. There's no such thing as "best performance" for it either. That is only the person riding the bike and their perception of it and how they want the throttle to FEEL. Change it to the way you think it should feel. That's what the ETV map is for and does. It is for the way you want the throttle application to feel for the way you ride. All you want to do is soften the initial TPS values a bit, but the majority should otherwise be 100% across the board and make the TPS and ETV the same. Then your wrist will be controlling the throttle and not the engineers at Kawi. It's not rocket surgery. :ROFLMAO:
 
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