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Discussion Starter #1
Hi yall, I just wanted to ask what power gains yall had with your dyno experience and either ecu tuning or pc5 tuning etc.

So here's my setup:
2013 ZX10r
MJS Performance Mid-pipe
Yoshimura R77 Slip on
K&N Street Filter
ECU map customized with dyno tune using Woolich software

Starting power: 161.10 whp / 73.35 ft-lb
Ending power: 178.43 whp / 75.34 ft-lb
Max redline: 13,500 (no I did not raise it 500 rpm's I already peaked hp before redline)

Bike is smooth as balls on acceleration and deceleration, milder fumes from exhaust, large power difference from midrange to up top. Bike is quieter, and pops slightly less. Smoothness of the bike transfers a ton more power to the ground at a constant, climbing, and efficient rate. So overall A LOT faster bike.

I read that there are other gen 4's that are getting 180whp and possibly 190's? What did I do wrong with my bike to get 178whp, or is it just luck of the draw?

Last question, if my bike is falling slightly right when i'm going in a straight line, which way do I need to reposition my rear wheel. I am thinking I need to turn the rear wheel left (push the right rear axel nut forward)
 

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There's nothing wrong with your numbers. Dyno's are only relative to themselves. My bike made 172hp with an untuned kit ecu and a slipon/mid pipe.

Your rear wheel should be positioned so your chain is straight. You want your front and rear sprockets inline with eachother.
 

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There's nothing wrong with your numbers. Dyno's are only relative to themselves. My bike made 172hp with an untuned kit ecu and a slipon/mid pipe.

Your rear wheel should be positioned so your chain is straight. You want your front and rear sprockets inline with eachother.
:+1: to everything said. Ignore the total dyno number. You gained 17Hp and 2ft-lbs and it runs smooth. You're done. If you wanna see your bike make 190Hp, then just ask the dyno operator to set a different correction factor and run it on a Thursday evening under a full moon. It's irrelevant.

As for the rear wheel, the rear axle should be parallel to the swing arm pivot. You don't turn the wheel either way to correct for handling issues. It's likely the crown of the road is causing the pull. Verify your rear axle is aligned STRAIGHT and therefore your chain is straight and the rest is what you have to live with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replys, that makes sense. Bike is demon fast and super smooth so I guess there's no need for adjustments.

However, and I made a post about this, just today I topped out my bike (on a closed course drag strip) my speedometer was reading 193mph before i flashed the ECU, now that I flashed the ECU and removed the top speed limiter, the speedometer gets stuck at 189mph.

Any input?
 
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