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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are other folk using for the target AFR with their Woolich Autotune?

The bin file supplied by Woolich for my Euro Gen5 has a target AFR of 13.3 (IIRC) across the board.

Is this just a safe starting point or something that's been proved to be the best for the Gen5?
 

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That's in the ballpark for general tuning, imo. To really know what your bike likes you'll have to play with a couple different AFRs on a dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there really that much difference between individual bikes? Being modern production engines I'd have thought they'd all be very close.

I'm just trying to learn here, not chasing 0.5BHP, and thought that with the seeming popularity of the Woolich stuff there would be a bunch of folk who could say what AFR they're using and why..... or perhaps it's a trade secret :)
 

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Is there really that much difference between individual bikes? Being modern production engines I'd have thought they'd all be very close.

I'm just trying to learn here, not chasing 0.5BHP, and thought that with the seeming popularity of the Woolich stuff there would be a bunch of folk who could say what AFR they're using and why..... or perhaps it's a trade secret :)
i have not messed with mine just left it default.. i have gen 4 not sure what the setting it is at would have to look. i have logged about 100 or so log files with log box and applied them to my map through the autotune software and i can tell a difference in power and smoothness.

i would just leave it default and do some time on it and log some riding and apply it to ur map and see what happens. zx10rarcher said leave it default on mine.. you may pm him and ask him as he would now if anyone. :grin2:
 

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Is there really that much difference between individual bikes? Being modern production engines I'd have thought they'd all be very close.

I'm just trying to learn here, not chasing 0.5BHP, and thought that with the seeming popularity of the Woolich stuff there would be a bunch of folk who could say what AFR they're using and why..... or perhaps it's a trade secret :)
Honesty, I'm not sure, but I would say yes. Lots of different variables from bike to bike, and atmosphere condition to atmosphere condition in different parts of the country. That said, the differences probably wouldn't be very much, maybe a couple horses. If your looking for max power though, you need to see what your exact bike in your conditions likes. I'm not an expert though, and the above poster is right, pm archer. He's a very knowledgeable guy and can definitely give you any answers you need on Woolich or tuning.
 

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IMO, the best fuel ratio to get maximum HP is 14.7 :1 , this ratio will burn all the Gasses that fuel produce , a cylinder when burns fuel need to be cool down ,manufactures use water, oil and fuel to do this , when you run the cylinder richer then 14.7 A/F it will cool done , to get the maximum HP of the motor you need get closer to the 14.7 A/F .
most manufacturers run their engine at 13.5 to 14 A/F , for Us with limited tuning tools we go blow 13.5 A/F , if you can put your motor on engine dyno and take head temp and look at all 5 gases that comes out of exhaust then you can get the max HP with fuel ratio of 13.5 to 14 A/F .
13.3 A/F is a safe fuel Ratio for us to tune with limited tuning tools , if you are in a very hot environment then 13.0 ,13.1 is a safe fuel ratio
 

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Old thread bump. So ballpark for autotune would be around 13.3-13.5?

Also, should I unify the fuel map options with the lower or upper injectors?
 

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I’ll double check my settings in the morning, but I think I unified the upper and lower.
 

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The correct air fuel ratio largely depends on the fuel you are using. For gasoline, 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric ratio, meaning this is the point where all of the air and fuel are consumed with nothing left over. For max power, it's better to be richer than stoich for a couple of reasons. First, engines are air pumps and the goal is to use all of the air. A little extra fuel helps ensure this is the case. Second, being richer than stoich helps to keep the chamber hot spots a little cooler which can allow for more spark advance, further increasing power. Most good tuners talk in terms of lambda which is the actual air fuel ratio / stoichiometric air fuel ratio. Lambda doesn't typically change from fuel to fuel.

Ethanol has a stoichiometric ratio of 9:1, so if you are running ethanol blends of 10%, your target air fuel ratio needs to be lower than if you are running pure gas. It's best to err on the side of being a little rich, as it provides good drive ability and safety from detonation. Applying this information should help you pick the right starting point.
 
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