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Has anyone tackled dialing in the auto-blipper (downshifts) on the QS yet with woolich for the Gen 5? Possibly put on mapshare? The default settings are terrible and its not smooth at all. Its only smooth after 7000+ rpm. But for cruising around town... its terrible because its so rough and jerks you forward. I actually have it turned off right now. If anyone has every ridden a bmw... u will understand what i mean about how terrible the auto blips are.

Any info? Thanks guys

EJR
 

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Not that I know of. Seems like everyone using woolrich struggles to get this working. The Ftecu doesn't allow changes but works flawlessly.

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Has anyone tackled dialing in the auto-blipper (downshifts) on the QS yet with woolich for the Gen 5? Possibly put on mapshare? The default settings are terrible and its not smooth at all. Its only smooth after 7000+ rpm. But for cruising around town... its terrible because its so rough and jerks you forward. I actually have it turned off right now. If anyone has every ridden a bmw... u will understand what i mean about how terrible the auto blips are.

Any info? Thanks guys

EJR
Tuned my ECU with Woolich and have been using the autoblipper with default settings. Works like a charm. No issues really. Just let go of the throttle to zero and downshift. Works smooth as butter.
 

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I didn't like the amount of blip I was getting, too high for my preference so I just knocked the whole map down about 5% and it was better. You can easily make changes with the Woolich kit.
 

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I have detected that very rich maps have to make the aut oblipper less smooth. Even if you activate the Deceleration Fuel Cut, the bike jerks you forward.

I would like to know which part of the Fuel map and IAP is the part that affects the fuel on deceleration (I don't think it's only TPS: 0 column AND RPM: 1000 to 14000 rows)
 

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Two wheel dyno works flashed my ecu and the auto blipper works great. Quick shifters in general do work better at higher revs, my ducati was like that too. I’m not sure if this is helpful, I guess what I’m saying is that it can be accomplished because mine works like a charm.
 

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I have a zx10 SE 2018 and the quickshift and autoblipper works great at low and high rpm, much better without the catalyst and silencer.But if I use a custom map from woolich with similar characteristics of my bike, the autoblipper works badly.I'm still trying to learn what is the difference that affects the autoblipper ... I guess very rich AFR in deceleration
 

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I have detected that very rich maps have to make the aut oblipper less smooth. Even if you activate the Deceleration Fuel Cut, the bike jerks you forward.

I would like to know which part of the Fuel map and IAP is the part that affects the fuel on deceleration (I don't think it's only TPS: 0 column AND RPM: 1000 to 14000 rows)
Hmmm. This quote is a confusing one. The autoblipper works only when the throttle is closed by momentarily opening the throttle back up to take the pressure off the transmission gears. So modifying the fuel maps would have a negligible effect on the autoblip function and may adversely affect the normal operation since that's what you're talking about doing here.



If the engine runs fine normally and is tuned to a specific AFR, then the fuel map is correct. So the jerkiness you're feeling with autoblip is a byproduct of that and more related to the length of time and how much the throttle is actually opened when the autoblip is activated. Stop worrying about the fueling to smooth that out. Change the amount the throttle is opening and how long it is open to account for the fuel map you're running. If the fueling is rich when the computer opens the throttle, it will be rich when you do it with your hand.



The question is, when are you using the autoblip? It is designed for racing, not really coming to a stop at a stoplight. It is smoother and more accurate the higher you are in the rev range. Using it below 9,000rpm it can be a bit jerky. My settings work smoothly up high but are more noticeable down low. I don't care about that enough to spend that much time playing with it to smooth everything out everywhere. Autoblip won't even work below 3,000rpm at all.
 

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Thanks for answering, I may be wrong so I appreciate any clarification as I seek to learn.

Hmmm. This quote is a confusing one. The autoblipper works only when the throttle is closed by momentarily opening the throttle back up to take the pressure off the transmission gears. So modifying the fuel maps would have a negligible effect on the autoblip function and may adversely affect the normal operation since that's what you're talking about doing here.
I believe that the autoblipper cannot take off pressure, by pushing on the shift lever we simply remove the dog gear and at that precise moment it is that the motorcycle accelerates about 550 to 1200rpm (according to the woolich program), to coordinate the entry of the next dog gear (Is that what they are called?).
so, when we decelerate (fully close), if there is no fast RPM drop the autoblipper may exceed rpm and cause that jerk behavior.

This is my theory.

If the engine runs fine normally and is tuned to a specific AFR, then the fuel map is correct. So the jerkiness you're feeling with autoblip is a byproduct of that and more related to the length of time and how much the throttle is actually opened when the autoblip is activated. Stop worrying about the fueling to smooth that out. Change the amount the throttle is opening and how long it is open to account for the fuel map you're running. If the fueling is rich when the computer opens the throttle, it will be rich when you do it with your hand.
I totally agree that it does not make sense to modify the mapping by the autoblipper, but when doing an autotune, there are several areas of the map (like when trottle off) that we do not have AFR target and we may be adding fuel where it does not correspond.

This is another theory I have, it may be far from the correct one :)

The question is, when are you using the autoblip? It is designed for racing, not really coming to a stop at a stoplight. It is smoother and more accurate the higher you are in the rev range. Using it below 9,000rpm it can be a bit jerky. My settings work smoothly up high but are more noticeable down low. I don't care about that enough to spend that much time playing with it to smooth everything out everywhere. Autoblip won't even work below 3,000rpm at all.
Unfortunately I use the autoblip in the city and on routes, but in my country we can go at high speeds on the route without much consequence with the law. Sorry for the madness, but it is very difficult to access a circuit.

as I said before, the quickshift and autoblip work excellent for me at 4000rpm as at 13000rpm with the original map, but when I use a tuned map with similar characteristics to my motorcycle (I'm waiting for the equipment for autotune), the autoblip becomes uncomfortable under the 8000rpm.

The issue is: If I want to maintain the optimal behavior in the future over the entire rpm range, I will have to buy the Woolich Race Tools to be able to adjust at least the autoblipper or use them above 8000rpm. Unless, there is some trick for the tuned map to behave identical to the original when decelerating
 

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I believe that the autoblipper cannot take off pressure, by pushing on the shift lever we simply remove the dog gear and at that precise moment it is that the motorcycle accelerates about 550 to 1200rpm (according to the woolich program), to coordinate the entry of the next dog gear (Is that what they are called?).
so, when we decelerate (fully close), if there is no fast RPM drop the autoblipper may exceed rpm and cause that jerk behavior.

This is my theory.
Nope. The autoblipper is the name of a function. It does nothing mechanically on it's own.

Constant mesh gear pairs slide along the input and the output shafts together and engage on the sides thought slots and dogs. There is too much tension on them to release each other when the engine is connected. It doesn't matter if the engine is accelerating the bike or the engine is braking the wheels. It is the same thing, just a different direction. That's why there is a clutch and that's how the clutch works.

The quick shifter works by interrupting the spark to allow the engine to reverse direction for a split second to take the tension off the gears so they can change. When the bike is decelerating, the wheels are driving the engine. In order to reverse the tension in that scenario, the throttle must be opened momentarily.

When you twist the throttle grip, you're telling the computer how fast you want to go and it moves the throttlebody. When you push the shift lever with your foot you trigger a switch that tells the computer that you want to change gears. The computer blips the throttle open quickly to take the tension off the gears and let the shift happen since you've already started the mechanics of that with your foot. There is nothing else that happens. Clutcless downshifts do the same thing by "blipping" the throttle yourself.

"Autoblip" describes the process of telling the computer to automatically blip the throttle like you would do with your hand. There's nothing else magical that is done there.

I totally agree that it does not make sense to modify the mapping by the autoblipper, but when doing an autotune, there are several areas of the map (like when trottle off) that we do not have AFR target and we may be adding fuel where it does not correspond.

This is another theory I have, it may be far from the correct one :)
Adding fuel where it doesn't belong will be noticeable in other areas and will have no effect on the autoblip.

Unfortunately I use the autoblip in the city and on routes, but in my country we can go at high speeds on the route without much consequence with the law. Sorry for the madness, but it is very difficult to access a circuit.

as I said before, the quickshift and autoblip work excellent for me at 4000rpm as at 13000rpm with the original map, but when I use a tuned map with similar characteristics to my motorcycle (I'm waiting for the equipment for autotune), the autoblip becomes uncomfortable under the 8000rpm.
You shouldn't be using the autoblip around town. That's the problem. If you want a bike with an automatic transmission, then just buy a scooter.

The issue is: If I want to maintain the optimal behavior in the future over the entire rpm range, I will have to buy the Woolich Race Tools to be able to adjust at least the autoblipper or use them above 8000rpm. Unless, there is some trick for the tuned map to behave identical to the original when decelerating
The Woolich kit already provides changes to the stock settings for quikshifter. The changes are, per gear, TPS opening % vs RPM and opening Time vs RPM.

How are you modifying the fuel maps and enabling the autoblip that you don't already have access to this? You've changed the fuel maps which makes the engine behave differently from stock, which is what the autoblip is set for. Unless you are going to run stock fuel maps with stock autoblip settings, then you're going to have to tune the autoblip that to your likely based on what fueling you have set now. The Race Tools provides the same thing, but with finer adjustments when combined with their improved gear change sensor that replaces the OEM one.
 

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For a while and myself included i have noticed members in the know replying less and less frequently and often with brief and at most non complete answers and seldom a reply to a almost negative response from the OP, but Skydork again has taken considerable time and understanding in helping a member. Credit where due, and note to myself too try harder and not be so dismissive with OP's replies.
 

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Nope. The autoblipper is the name of a function. It does nothing mechanically on it's own.

Constant mesh gear pairs slide along the input and the output shafts together and engage on the sides thought slots and dogs. There is too much tension on them to release each other when the engine is connected. It doesn't matter if the engine is accelerating the bike or the engine is braking the wheels. It is the same thing, just a different direction. That's why there is a clutch and that's how the clutch works.

The quick shifter works by interrupting the spark to allow the engine to reverse direction for a split second to take the tension off the gears so they can change. When the bike is decelerating, the wheels are driving the engine. In order to reverse the tension in that scenario, the throttle must be opened momentarily.

When you twist the throttle grip, you're telling the computer how fast you want to go and it moves the throttlebody. When you push the shift lever with your foot you trigger a switch that tells the computer that you want to change gears. The computer blips the throttle open quickly to take the tension off the gears and let the shift happen since you've already started the mechanics of that with your foot. There is nothing else that happens. Clutcless downshifts do the same thing by "blipping" the throttle yourself.

"Autoblip" describes the process of telling the computer to automatically blip the throttle like you would do with your hand. There's nothing else magical that is done there.
Thank you for clarifying this, you're right ! I thought that both the blip and the spark interruption were happening at the time the slots and dogs disengage (by our foot pushing the lever)

Adding fuel where it doesn't belong will be noticeable in other areas and will have no effect on the autoblip.
This will remain the mystery! If it is not for fuel mapping ... something else influences the behavior.

… If you want a bike with an automatic transmission, then just buy a scooter.
No way >:)

How are you modifying the fuel maps and enabling the autoblip that you don't already have access to this? You've changed the fuel maps which makes the engine behave differently from stock, which is what the autoblip is set for. Unless you are going to run stock fuel maps with stock autoblip settings, then you're going to have to tune the autoblip that to your likely based on what fueling you have set now. The Race Tools provides the same thing, but with finer adjustments when combined with their improved gear change sensor that replaces the OEM one.
My motorcycle (SE 2018) already comes with factory autoblipper, only when copying and pasting fuel maps (uploaded images) autoblip behavior changes. Understanding that it is not the purpose of the autoblipper to be used at low rpm, I'm only interested in finding out what happens as a mental exercise.

The images show the values contrasted with the oem map, I want to believe that it is not a risky test. That map is from someone who has akra full system, and I have cat-delete and slipon of the same brand.
 

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For a while and myself included i have noticed members in the know replying less and less frequently and often with brief and at most non complete answers and seldom a reply to a almost negative response from the OP, but Skydork again has taken considerable time and understanding in helping a member. Credit where due, and note to myself too try harder and not be so dismissive with OP's replies.
:eek:ccasion1

I really appreciate people who take the trouble to explain and teach. Users have to understand that they not only help one person, but they help many people who probably have the same the same questions and doubts. Who knows for how many years this information remains to be read.
 

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I just got my bike dyno tuned using the woolich software. Riding home i noticed that the auto blipper was really jerky (bike lurches forwards a lot) below 7000rpms. No changes were made in the Auto blipper settings. Previously it was butter smooth all the way down to 2.5k.
I suspect the effects are from turning off the decel fuel cut and accel enrichment functions on the software. Will try to enable those features tomorrow and see if it really is the cause of the lurching.
 

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Would activating the electronic slipper clutch or using an aftermarket slipper clutch improve blipper gear engagement and reduce abruptness?
 
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