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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am new to this forum. I have my 1st Kawasaki, a 2016 ZX-10R KRT Edition and have been trying a few maps on Mapshare after I installed Woolich on my bike.

There is one map with a 9.5 rating out of 10 so what the hell I loaded it on the medium map setting for fun to try it out.

https://www.woolichracing.com/mapshare/item/446/

I was a sceptic but it is definately 9.5 on acceleration and I don't have the exact setup either. My problem is if I pull the clutch in when slowing down it stalls. Not everytime but enough to be to painful to ride in traffic. Even when cruising at 100km/h I tried pulling in the clutch and it promptly died. Then pulling up at home I was waiting for it to die and it didn't.

Who knows these Woolich maps and can point me in the right direction to stop the stalling? Start it up & idles fine with that map, rev it and sometimes it stalls.

It is worth the acceleration buzz to try and figure it out!

Cheers

Ash
 

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Pulling up at home are you in Neutral? reason i ask is maybe the changes have only been made to in gear maps. If you are in neutral when pulling up at home check in maps. I am not suggesting you copy neutral maps to in gear maps that would be a bad idea. But work with us to resolve this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I went down through the gears then neutral and it was ok. But earlier on the same ride as soon as I pulled in the clutch to stop it just died.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes in 6th doing 100km/h I pulled the clutch in and it died straight away. Coming home it was down the gears then into 1st up the driveway then neutral and let the clutch out and it didn't die. But in traffic and stopping in gear pulling the clutch in it would die straight away. Slowing down and letting the clutch out would basically push start it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IAP map. I copy and pasted the standard one across and it runs perfect.

Anyone ever changed the exhaust gas offset in Woolich from max time 250ms to the individual numbers?

Engine capacity
Max RPM
Header diameter
Header pipe length

Anyone know the Factory Kawasaki header specs?

Thanks

Ash
 

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OK good news, i like the way you fast forwarded to the IAP map, yes i have used individual measurements on the gas offset, i cant say i noticed any difference on any Gen but also i have never done back to back dyno testing on that alone. But yes i do do that simply because woolich say it makes a difference and for the time it takes to input why not.
 

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let me guess, it's the Austin racing map? That map can be wild, there are a few variations of it. I managed to get it to almost be stable. The key to that map is to only pull the clutch in part way and let it out again to catch the stall. Not sure what exactly they did to it but it just won't catch itself when coming from higher rpm straight to idle rpm. Ie..pulling in the clutch while rpm is over 4k or so...look around I'm sure someone posted the variation to that map that will catch itself....or at least I think I did lol. Cornerfreak posted a more spaz version and I posted a slightly more stable version. Good luck
My bad frickenmorons map. Never had that issue on that map
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I just wanted to try it since it had such a high rating compared to the others. It's perfect now with a standard IAP map.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As far as the exhaust gas offset goes......

Yes I was very interested in getting them. But when I asked Woolich technical support I got this reply,

Hi Ashley, no we don't have those settings. 250ms works absolutely fine on a ZX10r 2016 though.

All my IOM TT bikes run that setting and we are always one of the fastest bikes!!

That was from Woolich UK technical support.

Good enough for me!
 

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UK support? i thought you were down under the home of Woolich is Aus!! Richard is the UK rep i have his number if you ever need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes I am down under but for Woolich to have 24 hour support I gather Australia does the day and UK does the night!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, they are very helpful. They need to be 24 hours though, I wouldn't plan an ECU flash and ride. I keep getting bloody USB errors so I roll back the driver then it works fine but the other day it did it halfway through the ECU write and obviously failed. I tried to write the ECU again but it came up saying I needed to buy another key. So I couldn't do anything until they answered my email, then they wanted me to send my read ECU file to them. Then they agreed it was a write error and gave me a key so it would work again. But that all took about 5 hours so my quick ECU flash and off for a ride was over! Bloody computers. Lesson there is write the day before just in case!!!
 

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I bet the IAP map would fix that one up to, it looked all over the place in 3D. Probably be perfect for the bike and weather it was auto tuned on.
Woolich helped me with the IAP answer.
I'll try that out on the map, I think I might need to Port it over from the r to the RR for my bike though, can't remember if I already did that or not but I bought an extra bin file just to have that option
 

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Yes, they are very helpful. They need to be 24 hours though, I wouldn't plan an ECU flash and ride. I keep getting bloody USB errors so I roll back the driver then it works fine but the other day it did it halfway through the ECU write and obviously failed. I tried to write the ECU again but it came up saying I needed to buy another key. So I couldn't do anything until they answered my email, then they wanted me to send my read ECU file to them. Then they agreed it was a write error and gave me a key so it would work again. But that all took about 5 hours so my quick ECU flash and off for a ride was over! Bloody computers. Lesson there is write the day before just in case!!!
so I had a dropped internet connection one time while writing to my ecu using my phone as a hotspot, it caused an ecu fail issue same as what you had, I just purchased a new key and fixed it then sent them an email telling them what happened and why and asked them if they would mind refunding and disabling my old bin file. They did it as soon as they opened back up the next day so there is always that option. You should probably use a diff USB cable cause I used to have random issues reading till I changed my cable
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I never thought of the cable but it was the one Woolich supplied with the USB M v3 kit.

I just turned off auto updates but that was off when it happened.
After the write failed I read the ECU and everything was bizarre. No maps, all the counters were off the charts. I didn't dare try and start it.
But Woolich were good, new key and worked perfect.
 

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I never thought of the cable but it was the one Woolich supplied with the USB M v3 kit.

I just turned off auto updates but that was off when it happened.
After the write failed I read the ECU and everything was bizarre. No maps, all the counters were off the charts. I didn't dare try and start it.
But Woolich were good, new key and worked perfect.
Yeah, my ecu fully wouldnt read, said it was locked or I didn't have a valid bin file for it. The dash kept blinking and the bike wasn't having it. N indicator wouldn't change when I shifted and it wouldn't even turn over so yeah bought new bin, flashed to stock and then back to my map and all was well but woolich has killer customer service for sure
 
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