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La Flama Blanca
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I can honestly say that I have owned three different bikes with a PCIII and have never once touched the external buttons. Shoot I could not even tell you what they do.

So, you stop and make changes with the buttons while you are out riding?
Do the changes stay once you turn the bike off, or does it defualt back to the map?

You are actually the only one I have ever heard of that uses the buttons.
 

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I've never used the buttons either, but I'm leaning towards the pc3 because it supports the ignition module, but the V doesn't, or there isn't one for it yet.
 

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pcv

Did the unit you purchase was for an 08-09 zx10r?
What year bike is yours?
 

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The hob switches are for adjusting fuel levels at certain rpms. Obviously you have the lower,mid and high range. I dont remember the exact rpms for the levels. Its good to use if you punch up a generic map and notice your bike running rich or having a lean condition. I use the buttons when i head up to the gap because the different altitudes/temp/humidity changes your a/f ratio. Each bar represents 2 percent so its pretty hard to fudge things up badly..
 

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:rolleyes:Damn rain... Had a 300 mile Sunday loop planned. Hopefully
it will move out by then.

Looks like a good weekend for me to tweak on the bike. Any chance I
can see the diagram for that switchable TRE?
 

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I missed the PC3 buttons was the main reason.

Dynojet obsoleted the buttons on the PCV in their attempt to make the PCV unit as small as possible. I have always liked having the buttons for making adjustments while out riding.

So what did I give up?

PCV is much smaller, but since I have more than enough space to mount the PC3 where I want it, thats not much of an advantage.

PCV no longer needs the 9V Battery adapter. But thats no problem. I can use the adapter.

PCV has 2 Maps on the fly. I tried different maps on the fly and the butt dyno really couldn't tell the difference. I can be happy with 1 good map.

AUTO TUNE. IMO, the auto tune kits are NOT really practicable on a street bike. Unless you have a wide open desolate area to work with, any RPM above 6000 and 40% throttle is go to jail speeds. The auto tune kits (Bazzaz as well) must see a needed change for a specific number of times before applying the trims. How long that takes is Dynojet proprietary information so who knows.

I have read many threads on many forums about the auto tune and based on the feedback I have gotten, I don't really need it.

So really there is nothing about the PCV that I cannot live without. I would rather have the buttons and the PC3usb.

That's basically it.

Thanks for that honest review. It's easy to fall for the marketing hype. I've used "autotune" features on some standalone ecu's and while they are a tool for tuning, they do not replace good old fashioned dyno tuning. No matter what they tell you.
 

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The hob switches are for adjusting fuel levels at certain rpms. Obviously you have the lower,mid and high range. I dont remember the exact rpms for the levels. Its good to use if you punch up a generic map and notice your bike running rich or having a lean condition. I use the buttons when i head up to the gap because the different altitudes/temp/humidity changes your a/f ratio. Each bar represents 2 percent so its pretty hard to fudge things up badly..
if you have't got a wideband lambda kit for monitoring your air/fuel ratio?how do you know what your button pressing is doing to your air/fuel ratio's!??
 

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Well i guess you shouldnt touch them if you dont know how your bike is runing. Ive tuned carbs in my past dirt bikes to know how a bike is runing as well as reading a plug. You should probably also have an idea where your a/f is at. Each little bar changes the particular zone by 2%. Say for instance you were shooting nitrous then you would bump the upper end a few percent. Whenever i head to the mountains i will decrease my fuel a few percent because of the elevation. Might i add that i tuned my bike to pretty much 13.0 across the board so i pretty much know how much room i have to play with. I guess you gotta have some experince and knowledge to mess with the switches.:badteeth:
 

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Well i guess you shouldnt touch them if you dont know how your bike is runing. Ive tuned carbs in my past dirt bikes to know how a bike is runing as well as reading a plug. You should probably also have an idea where your a/f is at. Each little bar changes the particular zone by 2%. Say for instance you were shooting nitrous then you would bump the upper end a few percent. Whenever i head to the mountains i will decrease my fuel a few percent because of the elevation. Might i add that i tuned my bike to pretty much 13.0 across the board so i pretty much know how much room i have to play with. I guess you gotta have some experince and knowledge to mess with the switches.:badteeth:
or just some blind faith
 

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I've had some experience in tuning both with just a wideband O2 datalogging and with the autotune feature, albeit with a Bazzaz.

The autotune function is definitely NOT a replacement to a good map tune, but it certainly is not without it's merits. My 10R saw all street duty this year (no time for the track this year), and I've been fine tuning the map in the rpm range I operate mostly in, through the entire season. I'm on my 23rd revision and I got the map to nearly spot on to my target numbers, and the difference in the bike's behaviour is radical. The throttle response is amazingly smooth and hiccup free, and gas mileage is very good for when I'm not riding aggressively. The autotune does spit out erroneous suggestions from time to time, but with the Bazzaz, you spot these and negate these changes before applying the recommendations.

I have not mapped the near WOT settings as there is no place for me to really wring the bike out to get the autotune to work it's magic. My plan is to put the bike on the dyno and map it using the autotune first, then on a trackday and fine tune it with real world ram air.
 

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TEST RIDE OH YEAH!!!

I took the PCV off my 08 as previously discussed and went back to a PC3 and installed an igntion module and switchable TRE. Had enough break in the rain this evening for the roads to dry out and holy hell do I like it. I got tired of waiting on the PCV ignition module.

I just got in from a ride on my 08. Got my PC3, Ignition Module and TRE all dialed in. Absolutely perfect maps. No more messing with those.

0 popping on decell, no pinging, and the throttle response is outrageous.

Even the sound of the idle is completely different. It was like before the Akrapovic had many leaks at all the joints, and now no leaks is the best way to describe it. Not what I was expecting. Really incredible how the engine sounds at idle. I would not have guessed such a radical change in engine idle tone. I got 10 degrees advance at idle with the TRE activated and 4 degrees advance on top using the Dynojet ignition module.

I also got the unlock code for the rev extend though I doubt I will ever use it. Just thought I would get it in case. That way if I ever want it I don't have to go thru the bureaucracy to get it.

If the 2010 is an all new bike it is going to have to be really something to top this.

If it is just a warmed over 08/09 with new graphics, BPF forks, well I already have Ohlins. I guess I get to enjoy this one another year.
:eyecrazy:10 degrees is alot.

I'm lost on what I have quoted in green. If the TRE is activated the timing is 10 degrees?

I'm thinking that doesn't change correct?

So, if that is accurate then you are taking out 6 degrees with the module up top?
 

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I am adding 10 degrees at idle and off idle and progressively less till I am at +4 at 13,750 RPM's.

PM me a email address and I can send you the map. You can download the software from Dynojet and look at my map if you are curios to see it.

I removed the switch (not going to do that after all) from the TRE and have the TRE connected straight in. It is NEUTRAL map in all 6 gears.
I'll PM you.

You know not all that long ago (pre-USB models) the ignition module was a part of all the PC3's. Maybe even some of the early USB models had it as well:dontknow:. I ran a 5,4,3 degree advance with a progressive decrease in timing advance. I had a few different arrangements I tried, but normally stayed mild compared to what you have.

I think I follow you now. The TRE is just eliminating the Timing Retard. No timing changes (advanced or retarded) with the TRE, correct? All your timing is mapped out on the Ignition Module?

Thanks
 
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