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Discussion Starter #1
I was wandering who has bought the ignition module? And could you let me know who can tell a difference? How much? Is the pinging at idle gone? I have the muzzy thin head gasket and been degreed would this mod help my bike more or less than a stock bike??? I've seen the charts and all. I want to know who has done it and what you think. Thanks
 

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Mine should get here friday with my pc3. Bike is mostly stock except for Dannos perf. TRE and a slip on. Looking for rideability more than power.

A member- coach has one and is going to dyno his bike vs a buddies soon.
 

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Just finished packing the bike in the van, it's on the dyno tomorrow. Bike has Aky slip on can with baffle removed, Ivan's TRE Module, PC111USB, Ignition Module all mapped ready to go by Ivan. It's only going to compare with my mate's bike, he has already dyno'd his with Arrow slip on, PC111USB and a K&N Filter. His was putting out 156bhp standard and 167 when he was finished. It will be interesting to see what mine is like. Hopefullly I can post mine and my mates charts tomorrow night. He has lost his chart but we both think the dyno shop will still have it on his computer.
coach.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Absolutly. First thing I tried. Its the Tre I'm sure of it. Doesn't nothing but sucks more fuel and looses power
miykl said:
Have you tried adding fuel at 0% throttle?
 

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I would like that dyno.. My started at 144 on this dyno. W/ my mods 163.9 so I got a good gain guess dynos are only use to tune everyone is different. With that dyno looks like with this ignition module I should be over 170 rwhp on say Ivans dyno or something since I have the muzzy thin head gasket and the one he used is Kawasaki's I think. And he could only advance 4 degrees and I was told 5 is where u want to be... ?????????
coach said:
Just finished packing the bike in the van, it's on the dyno tomorrow. Bike has Aky slip on can with baffle removed, Ivan's TRE Module, PC111USB, Ignition Module all mapped ready to go by Ivan. It's only going to compare with my mate's bike, he has already dyno'd his with Arrow slip on, PC111USB and a K&N Filter. His was putting out 156bhp standard and 167 when he was finished. It will be interesting to see what mine is like. Hopefullly I can post mine and my mates charts tomorrow night. He has lost his chart but we both think the dyno shop will still have it on his computer.
coach.
 

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Just got back from dyno. Give me a chance to sort myself out, get something to eat and get the charts scanned in. I must say before I even post the results that I am dissapointed in the results. Can anyone tell me what resolution to scan the images in at, the last time I tried to post some photos they were way too big and it went all to pot. Also how do you get to write between the images, the last time all my pictures were up against each other.
coach.
 

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Put them in photobucket and resize them. after inputing the pic between the
hit enter so it doesn't look like this: [/img]
 

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Here is a easy to use free program to resize pictures. Someone here used to suggest this all the time. Works easily and quickly.

http://www.irfanview.com/

Coach- You are dissaponted in dyno but does the bike run smoothly?
 

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Her goes, I'm only going to up the images from my computer. The first graph shows my bike - the red line is my bike with all these bits Aky Slip-on (even though it says full system) Ivans TRE Module inc sub throttle mod, PC111USB and Ignition Module - PC111 and Ignition Module pre mapped by Ivan. The Red line is after the tweaks.
Now then there wasn't much wrong with the maps on both modules that Ivan supplied, the guy just made a couple of tweaks but it got me a couple of horses but he did have to spend quite a bit of time to get the fuel/air line a little better.
So I'm not complaining about what I got from Ivan it's just that I thought after all the extra expence over what my mate spent that I would be up there with him on horses. The second map shows a comparison between my bike (blue line), my mates ZX-10 (red line) and my other mates R1 (green line). My mates ZX-10 only has a Arrow slip-on, a K&N Filter and a PC111USB with a custom map to suit, the R1 has race Yoshi cans with the Y branch fitted with no cats, a PC111USB and a custom map to suit. My bike also has dropped a tooth on the front sprocket and we seem to think the R1 has the same but he will not admit it. This I have been told explains the drop off at the different top speeds.
Here goes for the maps anyway, I'll post some more in another post later.
Does anyone agree with the theory that same dyno on different days can give different results.
 

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I had a nice long talk with several of the local tuners and couple of the more educated old school riders and car guys around here about the A/F on the bikes and how the tuners are tuning them.

It looks like your tuner leaned out your bike some. I dynoed my bike bone stock and it was in the 12.5 to 1 range, which even though seems rich on the dyno, on the dyno they have no way to simulate the ram air effect. When the air comes rushing into the airbox it is going to lean out the richness on the dyno A/F and get it closer to being spot on.

I ahd my last bike done (03 636) and one of the local riders had his 05 R1 done and he had some of the same probs I did, bike would fall of in the upper range like it was running out of fuel but yet ran fine on stock rich map. We are both mechanical nuts and both thought that the tuners said that the ram air does not make a difference on the dyno, but I ahve seen dyno runs where people have taken leaf blowers and shoved them into intake tracts and cars have picked up 5 to 10 rwhp with this trick.

I wonder if one of these days if someone is going to make a mod that can simulate ram air at different speeds in order to be able to properly tune these newer fi/ram air bikes.
 

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Here are some more charts from today. To answer the question about the bike feeling OK. I'll have to wait until the weather gets a little better here in the UK, it sounded sweet when it was running, I was standing right beside it at the time.
The first graph is through the gears, the second graph - I can't remember what he said this one was but here it is. The third on is my new ignition map, he did have a little mess around with this and there wasn't much difference in the output. I think this Ignition Module will only come into play if the motor is heavily modified but as far as I'm concerned I think it was a waste of money for the gains I got. The last chart is my new fuel map, take no noyice of the values from 13250 and above - he doesn't know why it has printed out like that but the rest is right.
 

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It is a variable timing deal so you also gain a cooler running motor and a little better low end response because it is variable (reads throttle position & rpm as well as the TRE/ gear position info)- if I remember what Ivan said correctly.

Heat may not be a big issue there, but for South Florida, cooler running sounded like a good deal. I would have probably been happy with pc3 and map alone but sometimes you gotta say WTF.
 

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pulling OUT 4 degrees from 3700 rpm 20% throttle on up?? Make me think I should go the other way with my pick up adjustment. Or, just back to stock.
 

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Lots of variables in dyno readings even the same dyno.

Chain condition and tension can rob hp, supposedly tire condition can come into play, either from slipping or just the diameter differences of tire- not real sure, but it gets real technical. Correction factors try to make up for location and weather and such to give somewhat comparable numbers between (properly calibrated) dynos.
 

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We'll just have to wait till we start riding again. We ride together all the time so we can swap mounts and see if we can feel any advantages or not. Like I said it sounded sweet enough when it was running at full chat.
I'm going to start it up first thing in the morning, it's forecast to be really cold tonight and I want to see what the fast idle is now.
coach.
 

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miykl said:
pulling OUT 4 degrees from 3700 rpm 20% throttle on up?? Make me think I should go the other way with my pick up adjustment. Or, just back to stock.
I could be way off on this (that is whay I bought the unit with the pc3, won't have to program it) but I think when Ivan described filling in the info to the ign map manually, that he said the values "looked" backwards. Like -4 really meant to advance 4 and vece versa. I could be wrong.

Quote from Ivan's original post:

Quote:

Ivan- Any better/how much better than the static timing advance (done per your instructions)? Any rpm ranges retarded?




Much better.... you can advance much more at part throttle above 3500 rpm to make the engine even smoother and run cooler with noticeably better fuel consumtion.

You can retard to get rid of the mild ping at below 3500 rpm @ part throttle
(made worse after TRE installation).

You can advance the correct amount at full throttle to get the max power and accelleration through the midrange and top end.

Definetly worth having...and the airbox does not have to come off to install it (amazing !!)



Ivan

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