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Discussion Starter #1
Wanted to gain some input from the veterans on here about replacing the clutch. I went woth Barnetts carbon fiber friction plates and OEM steels as per kawi recommendations. After roughly 300 miles and some highways pulls i have clutch slip again. Checked cable adjustments and everything all good. Pulled the pack look at pix below. Only difference between new pack and old pack are the steels. New pack smooth side facing forward old pack sharp edge facing forward.
 

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I don't think it makes a difference the sharp edge vs the round edge facing in or out. Make sure to presoak the fiber plates in oil for a while before install. Make sure you have the proper stack height (should be somewhere in the manual). Make sure your oil does not have the energy conserving symbol on the container as certain oils will cause clutch slip. Hope this helps.
 

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when you open the clutch, did you see fiber residues? if there's a lot... may have already worn down for some reason.

Check the loose travel of 2 to 3mm of the clutch lever, because when the engine is hot the cable tends to tighten and without those 2 or 3 millimeters could cause the clutch plates to slip.
 

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I've never paid attention to the steels like that, usually just throw them in. I do let my fibers soak in oil for at least an hour before putting them in.

I'd check clutch lever free play like mentioned above and maybe get some heavy duty springs to keep a little more tension on the clutch.
 

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Are you sure it's clutch slip? are you getting it in every gear or just 1 or 2 gears? Just checking cause I mistaked worn dogs for clutch slip way back. Also, wanna say sharp edge out but can't remember, same way they came out matters from what I have heard. Last, get the OEM cork fiber plates, they work, have heard negative stuff about almost every other aftermarket fiber plate out there. maybe it changed but why risk it when the OEM plates work so well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think it makes a difference the sharp edge vs the round edge facing in or out. Make sure to presoak the fiber plates in oil for a while before install. Make sure you have the proper stack height (should be somewhere in the manual). Make sure your oil does not have the energy conserving symbol on the container as certain oils will cause clutch slip. Hope this helps.
Far as measuring honestly i compared it side by side with the old pack very minor difference. The oil is 10w40 amsoil metric
 

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Discussion Starter #8
when you open the clutch, did you see fiber residues? if there's a lot... may have already worn down for some reason.

Check the loose travel of 2 to 3mm of the clutch lever, because when the engine is hot the cable tends to tighten and without those 2 or 3 millimeters could cause the clutch plates to slip.
when I got home after my third day riding noticed at the clutch cover the top was super tight at that point had the clutch slip and pulled it.. The slip isn't until higher RPMs though
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you sure it's clutch slip? are you getting it in every gear or just 1 or 2 gears? Just checking cause I mistaked worn dogs for clutch slip way back. Also, wanna say sharp edge out but can't remember, same way they came out matters from what I have heard. Last, get the OEM cork fiber plates, they work, have heard negative stuff about almost every other aftermarket fiber plate out there. maybe it changed but why risk it when the OEM plates work so well.
Was doing some highway pulls hit from 1st at 40mph shifted to second third and 4th slipped and stayed at redline. Rode home which was bout 45miles away soft pulls on throttle no slip no slip at highway speeds took 5th slowly to 135mph no slip twist the throttle slips
 

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+1 stack height.

Also, oil. Amsoil makes my drag bike clutch slip. Maxima solved the the clutch problem but just felt really rough and notchy wile shifting. Motorex was slightly better than the Maxima. Motul worked well in both regards but $$ is crazy. Currently on the Kawi branded synthetic and all is well.
 

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and when it slipped did it feel almost like it was the chain jumping teeth on the sprocket or like you were actually kinda ridding the clutch? like slipping the clutch so power and smooth but not enough power? How were your old plates? did you replace the metal and friction plates or just friction plates?
 

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+1 stack height.

Also, oil. Amsoil makes my drag bike clutch slip. Maxima solved the the clutch problem but just felt really rough and notchy wile shifting. Motorex was slightly better than the Maxima. Motul worked well in both regards but $$ is crazy. Currently on the Kawi branded synthetic and all is well.
I run motul 7100 or 300v depending on what kind of riding I'm doing at the time. heard 300v doesn't have rust inhibitor in it though so have kinda leaned towards the 7100. The plus 1 plate height can help or cause mad clutch drag even with the clutch pulled in. stronger springs is the route I took when I replaced my gen 1 clutch. still if it doesn't do it in every gear, it may not be the clutch
 

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The steel plates should have the sharp edge facing out (I'm currently replacing some worn parts in my '04, so have read everything I can).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so to clarify, it will do it in every gear under hard throttle or only in certain gears
Haven't gone bac to test every gear slip didnt want to make it worst.. The pull was every gear after 2nd. Going home i tried in 4th and 5th not 6th. Police were out that evening heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
+1 stack height.

Also, oil. Amsoil makes my drag bike clutch slip. Maxima solved the the clutch problem but just felt really rough and notchy wile shifting. Motorex was slightly better than the Maxima. Motul worked well in both regards but $$ is crazy. Currently on the Kawi branded synthetic and all is well.
was thinking really hard about switching to Motorex or Kawi. Will try Kawi definitely
 

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Discussion Starter #18
and when it slipped did it feel almost like it was the chain jumping teeth on the sprocket or like you were actually kinda ridding the clutch? like slipping the clutch so power and smooth but not enough power? How were your old plates? did you replace the metal and friction plates or just friction plates?
felt like riding the clutch old frictions werent that bad steels had hard spots but no warpage stack height on old pack 53.2mm i replaced steels as well, steels are OEM
 

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Discussion Starter #19
+1 stack height.

Also, oil. Amsoil makes my drag bike clutch slip. Maxima solved the the clutch problem but just felt really rough and notchy wile shifting. Motorex was slightly better than the Maxima. Motul worked well in both regards but $$ is crazy. Currently on the Kawi branded synthetic and all is well.
I run motul 7100 or 300v depending on what kind of riding I'm doing at the time. heard 300v doesn't have rust inhibitor in it though so have kinda leaned towards the 7100. The plus 1 plate height can help or cause mad clutch drag even with the clutch pulled in. stronger springs is the route I took when I replaced my gen 1 clutch. still if it doesn't do it in every gear, it may not be the clutch
I do make a good bit of torque bike far from stock, no nitrous or power adders springs are swapped wondering if i should add shims to tue Barnett springs. Your saying add a additional friction plate? Where would i place that?
 

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when steels have dark or bluish spots mean they suffered a lot of temperature ... they can be straight when cold, but not when hot (as is the case with brake discs)

If they are slipping, I recommend you not to use your bike, because the fibers begin to come loose and all that material is mixed with oil that can damage the engine.

Whenever a clutch is burned, it is recommended to change the oil and filter. (And you may inspect the metal mesh inside the snorkel found in the oil pan). So, with this I don't want to sound crazy, but I prefer to give advice.
 
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