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Discussion Starter #1
The manual wants you to replace the plugs every 7,500 miles. I checked them out last week with 12.3k and it looks good. It has an iridium tip if I'm not blind. I think the manual is over exaggerating on the change intervals. I was looking at my friend's 1000RR's manual, and the plugs are not recommended to be replaced until 32k. Can someone explain why? I think Kawasaki is big on generic manuals. Just like on my old ZX7R the manual calls for regular octane but under the seat the sticker calls for premium.WTF Kawasaki?
 

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You normally find that engines that run on the cam a lot suffer from plug fouling on idle or lower in the RPM's, 355 and 360 Ferraris have this inherent problem in particular and also run on $16 plugs (try replacing 8 at a time), the plugs usually suffer from contamination as opposed to bad oxidation and although sometimes appear relatively clean actually dont spark very well under compression.
I have had my plugs in for 11,000 miles and have a new set ready to go in and I can tell it needs them , I will change them at the first opportunity as I remember holing a piston on my Honda when I had completely burned the Cathode of the plug ( 25,000 miles) and I dont want to go through that again.
 

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hey FAF have you checked your valves yet. How do you know when it is time? I have about 13k miles on the 04.
 

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The only plugs I have changed were in my old r6. They were supposed to be changed at 7.5k and I did it around 12k. They were still fine.
I went to take my wifes ex500 in at 8k miles and the dealer told me to come back at 10-12k miles. He said I was wasting money at 8k.
 

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ballsup said:
hey FAF have you checked your valves yet. How do you know when it is time? I have about 13k miles on the 04.

Not yet my friend, I am visiting my kid in Pennsylvania, its the first priority when I get back, hot leakdown, Compression check, then valve clearances, I'll let you know the condition when I have done it, this will determie wether I go for the big bore kit.
 

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One thing I will add, its worth the money to purchase a leakdown tester , I have had a lot of motorcycles and a lot of engine blow ups when I was a kid and if I knew better , maybe I wouldnt have had so many bikes.

The valve adjustment should be done a lot earlier than the book says in my opinion, especially if you are using aftermarket performance enhancements , after all you can have good valve clearances and bad valves , my bike is certainly showing signs of small power loss and the idle has become very inconsistant , probably the plugs due to maping inconsistancies , I would rather check the leakdown and valve wear early than wait for a major breakdown.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I'll get my valves checked next payday. I have 13.3k on the clock already. I will also change the plugs while I'm at it. Man the bill just keeps on racking up. Not to mension the rear tire! You just can't win....
 

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conspiracy said:
I think I'll get my valves checked next payday. I have 13.3k on the clock already. I will also change the plugs while I'm at it. Man the bill just keeps on racking up. Not to mension the rear tire! You just can't win....
Yup, I know what you mean, everytime I think I am finished working on the bike, I look at the back tire..doh !!!
 

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conspiracy said:
The manual wants you to replace the plugs every 7,500 miles. I checked them out last week with 12.3k and it looks good. It has an iridium tip if I'm not blind. I think the manual is over exaggerating on the change intervals. I was looking at my friend's 1000RR's manual, and the plugs are not recommended to be replaced until 32k. Can someone explain why? I think Kawasaki is big on generic manuals. Just like on my old ZX7R the manual calls for regular octane but under the seat the sticker calls for premium.WTF Kawasaki?
Did you actually take your plugs out and then put the old ones back in?I changed mine at around 8000 miles and they did not "look" bad but put the new ones in anyway they are not the easiest plugs to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Holly shit! I changed my plugs last night. It was a pain in the ass. I noticed a big difference with the response and the smoothness. Don't let the iridium fool you, it might still look good but it does'nt work like new after you cook em for 13k miles. The 38 bucks was worth it. I think... Oh by the way Kawasaki engineers should have thought about the mechanics when they made the bike. lol
 

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conspiracy said:
Oh by the way Kawasaki engineers should have thought about the mechanics when they made the bike. lol
thats what i hear, maybe if i decide to do my own plugs you can help me out?:badteeth: i'd be sure to have plenty of beers for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
10roller said:
thats what i hear, maybe if i decide to do my own plugs you can help me out?:badteeth: i'd be sure to have plenty of beers for ya.
lol, That's funny man! If you buy me a set of ratchet wrenches $40 at pepboys I'll do it for FREE. I'm up here in Temecula let me know. I have a 2 car garage.lol
:thumbsup:
 

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do the plug caps just pull of? I was messing around in their and just tugged on them and them suckers wouldnt come off. I didnt want to pull on them to hard
 

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Gabe they take some upward force to get them to pull off of the plugs. They have a rubber boot on the bottom of them that seals on the purcelain of the spark plug.

I found that if you turn them back and forth while pulling up on them it helps to break them free of the plugs.
 

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gabe said:
cool I gess I will try to change them this week
The worst part is getting to the 2 outside plugs.You have to remove the motor mount and then the bracket that bolts up under the frame.The stick coil can't be removed because it hits the bracket.But it is so close seems the bracket could have been notched a little for clearance.It's a job but you can give yourself a pat on the back for doing it yourself.
 

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busa41 said:
The worst part is getting to the 2 outside plugs.You have to remove the motor mount and then the bracket that bolts up under the frame.The stick coil can't be removed because it hits the bracket.But it is so close seems the bracket could have been notched a little for clearance.It's a job but you can give yourself a pat on the back for doing it yourself.
:iamwithst plus i always call the shop and get a quote for what they would charge and take that back to the wife to show her what i saved....lol
 

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I have just under 7K on mine. The winter list includes valve clearance check, throttle body synch and new spark plugs. I was considering the thin head gasket while I had it apart. Would this be a worthwhile mod since th rest of the bike (exhaust) is stock????

Either way, I will let ya know what the valve clearance was when I open her up. They have not been checked yet, but I don't want to just let it go.
 
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