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What exhaust? A PCIII? Dynojet Quick shifter? K&N filters? Rear Tires? Wheelie Bars? Different front and/or rear sprockets? What other items!!!!

Would you start off in first or second gear?

With your changes what kind of quarter-mile times would you expect?
 

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Agree with Floyd, for the most part. You can run as quick as 9.50 with a completely stock engine if you can ride and everything is set up right. The simple and cheap mod's with the best return for drag racing are strap and lower the bike plus a 15 tooth front sprocket.

Why on earth would you start out in 2nd gear???

Mike
 

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There are a few guys on the forum that drag their bikes on a regular basis, you might want to do a search but floyd is right, I dont think they have done anything more than drop a tooth in front and lower it. I think it was gars who wass running high 9s and he isnt the only one.
 

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1 tooth down in front, lower bike, strap down front, extend swingarm. My bike ran a 9.56 like this, but a similar one ran a 9.30 at the track Friday night. LEARNING HOW TO TAKE OFF is probably the most important.


J
 

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prebancolt said:
1 tooth down in front, lower bike, strap down front, extend swingarm. My bike ran a 9.56 like this, but a similar one ran a 9.30 at the track Friday night. LEARNING HOW TO TAKE OFF is probably the most important.


J
Preban,
Any tips or advice on how to (you) launch.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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engineermike said:
Why on earth would you start out in 2nd gear???

Mike
:+1: :+1:
 

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BIKEMIKE said:
Preban,
Any tips or advice on how to (you) launch.

Thanks,
Mike
I started using a method similar to Garceeya's method. Revs in the 3K range at the line then WOT as you release/ride out the clutch. It takes a lot of practice to get the timing right.

With a stock wheelbase, you'll probably end up like my buddy, trying to find the rear brake with the bike going vertical. With my bike extended 5 inches and the bike lowered, the front wheel comes up a few inches off the line, but the comfort level is a lot higher knowing that you will probably break traction before the bike comes over on you......unless you heat the tires before you make a pass, then they stick like crazy.

YOU GUYS KNOW RYAN WOULDN'T BE RUNNING A STOCK WHEELBASE IF HE HAD A CHOICE!!!

Dragracers extend wheelbases for one main reason......IT WORKS!!!

That being said, after I run a few more times at the track, I'll probably take my extensions off simply because I have never been a fan of extended bikes. I don't like the way they look, but man are they a lot easier to race.

Lastly, I must warn you that if you plan on extending your bike, you will have to remove a block of metal on the inside of your swingarm that holds the rear brake in place (stops it from rotating forward). The tire wants to scrub the metal, and in my case, it had to go, so when I go back to stock length, I'll have to fabricate something to hold the brake in place.

J
 

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prebancolt said:
I started using a method similar to Garceeya's method. Revs in the 3K range at the line then WOT as you release/ride out the clutch. It takes a lot of practice to get the timing right.

With a stock wheelbase, you'll probably end up like my buddy, trying to find the rear brake with the bike going vertical. With my bike extended 5 inches and the bike lowered, the front wheel comes up a few inches off the line, but the comfort level is a lot higher knowing that you will probably break traction before the bike comes over on you......unless you heat the tires before you make a pass, then they stick like crazy.

YOU GUYS KNOW RYAN WOULDN'T BE RUNNING A STOCK WHEELBASE IF HE HAD A CHOICE!!!

Dragracers extend wheelbases for one main reason......IT WORKS!!!

That being said, after I run a few more times at the track, I'll probably take my extensions off simply because I have never been a fan of extended bikes. I don't like the way they look, but man are they a lot easier to race.

Lastly, I must warn you that if you plan on extending your bike, you will have to remove a block of metal on the inside of your swingarm that holds the rear brake in place (stops it from rotating forward). The tire wants to scrub the metal, and in my case, it had to go, so when I go back to stock length, I'll have to fabricate something to hold the brake in place.

J
Thanks Preban,
I am lowered and strapped, hope that helps.

Mike
 
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