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hi i just got me another zx10r and now i got 1000 miles on it now. when i can start using sythetic blend or fully sythetic. thanks.
 

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you can start now if you want or when ever your ready.
 

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nooooo synthetics kill the clutch plates just buy good ol oil nothing special just oil castrol or somthing. syn's tear the slipper clutch up
 

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sczx10r said:
nooooo synthetics kill the clutch plates just buy good ol oil nothing special just oil castrol or somthing. syn's tear the slipper clutch up
So why does Kawasaki market their OWN Kawachem 100% Synthetic High-Performance Motor Oil (which I use exclusively)?

According to the label, Kawasaki recommends it for sportbikes subject to extreme conditions. Contains esters, sheer stable polymers, etc.
 

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Don't bother with blends. Blends are just a marketing ploy. One drop of synthetic in a quart of dino oil . . . voila! a synthetic blend. Use dino or synthetic. Car stuff works fine. I'm using Mobil 1 15w50 because it is cheap and available. I used Shell Rotella T 10w40 (dino stuff) to break it in.
 

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sczx10r said:
nooooo synthetics kill the clutch plates just buy good ol oil nothing special just oil castrol or somthing. syn's tear the slipper clutch up

don't agree with that..
whatever oil you buy just make sure in the round label on the back on the container is doesn't say "energy comserving" that can be bad on things in the clutch
 

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sczx10r said:
nooooo synthetics kill the clutch plates just buy good ol oil nothing special just oil castrol or somthing. syn's tear the slipper clutch up
As a general statement, that's hogwash. I have been using Mobil 1 "car" synthetic oil in my bikes for years, and that includes street bikes and race bikes. Clutch life has been normal. Yes, I have had to replace clutches ... but the original clutch in my '94 ZX9R lasted until 105,000 km before it started slipping, and that clutch did see the occasional hard launch, wheelie, or burnout, so I'd say that was quite normal and nothing to complain about.

There may be SOME oils, synthetic OR NOT, which may cause problems with wet clutches, but the previous formulation of Mobil 1 was OK. The new formulation hasn't been around long enough to comment on it.

If you really want to be sure, just use a synthetic oil that conforms to the JASO MA specification. One such oil is Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40. There are various others from Elf, Motul, etc.
 

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there was actually a study done by a professor at Colorado State on this very topic. motorcycle oil vs. regular oil.. they tested royal purple, Honda oil, castrol syntec, 5 different oils of various grade and price to see whether or not 'motorcycle' oil performed any better in a motorcycle than did 'car' oil. his results were that all of the oils did 99% of their breaking down in the first 1000 miles.. they all lost their viscosity in the first 1/3 of their duration in the engine and did very little breaking down after that. in addition he also found that there was absolutely no-zero-none advantages in running a motorcycle oil as opposed to a car oil. even better than that he concluded that expensive is not always superior, as the oil that performed best in his research was actually a $2 a quart castrol syntec dino-bones standard oil. just something to think about here.

as for running kawi-oil specifically i wont tell you how to maintain your motorcycle as it is yours and you may do with it as you please. however all of the oils come from the same place, such is why your dealer (and us specifically) may at random stop carrying your favorite oil you've used for 50 years. we see little point in stocking oil from 4 different manufacturers that contain the exact same product inside. so dont stress if you dont purchase 'kawi' oil, buy the Honda oil and understand that its the same shit. :wink:
 

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Don't get me wrong. Kawi synthetic oil is nothing special. It's blended by Motul. I called them and was told that it's basically their Etech synthetic.

I agree that dealers and shops don't need to carry a bunch of brands of oil. On today's high performance water cooled bikes, any name brand oil is fine.

I just happen to be one of those anal people that buys oil by the case, but I'd have no problem switching brands. I DO, however, believe in using full synthetic oil. There's no question that it's better (especially for me in S. Florida), and for the number oil changes I do in a year, the $$ difference isn't very much.
 

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It's all "Snake oil" if you ask me. I've been running (oh dear god nooooo!!!) car oil in my bikes for 16 years. Hmmmm. Never a single friggin problem. No uncommon clutch wear or weird noises or mystical vapors coming off my bikes. I guess my experience tells me run whats a good brand and change it regularly.
 

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zx9rmal said:
I DO, however, believe in using full synthetic oil. There's no question that it's better (especially for me in S. Florida), and for the number oil changes I do in a year, the $$ difference isn't very much.
fair enough.. i too run synthetic and agree with you.
 
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