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Where'd the boobs go?
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I just put a dynojet quick shifter on my 10r and haven't had anytime to test it before racing it this weekend. Any tips on how you shift with it? Like do you leave your foot floating above it before you shift verses preloading like without it? Also do you shift it rather hard with your foot? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
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You just shift like normal. There's no preloading or you'll actually engage the kill switch. Just wait until you're ready to make the shift and shift like you would normally, just without the clutch. Also, make sure you're actually accelerating when doing it. Not just cruising.
 

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I found that I had to be very firm with the shifts. If you just push it gently you may end up hanging up between gears. The kill time is short, make the shift fast, push it like you mean it.

Shift at 12-12.5k
 

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Definitely be firm with the shifts and keep your foot clear of the shifter when your not shifting. I have my kill time set at 55ms, works good for drag racing. I have found myself bumping the kill a few times though preloading the lever by accident.
 

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Can I ask why you installed Dynojet shifter and Not a Strain gauge sensor??

As I've read that coil control is better than fuel management when it comes to quickshifters.
 

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I use the handlebar button, my brain says shift, my thumb reacts just slightly before my foot AND it shifts like an automatic. Hadn't bungled a shift in years :thumbsup:
 

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I recently fitted the Anatori RL (strain guage) shifter which dosent require any kill time setting, only sensitivity adjustment, and even on just the default setting the shifting it faultless:thumbsup:
No preloading nesessary, just hit that shifter when your ready to change.. Even in the lower rpm its a relatively smooth shift.. Definately much better with some high rpm though:mrgreen:
 

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I recently fitted the Anatori RL (strain guage) shifter which dosent require any kill time setting, only sensitivity adjustment, and even on just the default setting the shifting it faultless:thumbsup:
No preloading nesessary, just hit that shifter when your ready to change.. Even in the lower rpm its a relatively smooth shift.. Definately much better with some high rpm though:mrgreen:
From what I know the Anatori has had good reviews because it differs from some of the others on the market and is a stand alone unit.

The Anatori has three settings of sensitivety basically short/medium and long ignition kill times and seems to work well accross most of the rev range which is an improvement over some others which don't work below a certain rpm due to having to set the kill time specifically for each gear but is still not ideal.

Then there's the Translogic stand alone Titanium unit which is basically a full superbike spec unit, I'm yet to find a better shifter on the market than the Translogic.

It has all the best features of the Anatori such as the use of the strain gauge tech but is more refined again.

The best bit is the AST (Adaptive Shift Technology) feature. Everytime you select a gear on the Translogic it will select an ignition kill time from one of the 100's of kill times inbuilt into the AST unit to match the current RPM's meaning it is smooth at any RPM.

I have ridden with majority of the QS's and this thing is noticably the slickest thing I have used to date and the fact it does not need to be used in conjunction with anything else is fantastic!
 

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That translogic titanium unit sounds the shiz:mrgreen: I couldnt imagine anything better then what ive got with just the RL version, even in just default mode..
It was well smooth enough for me at all the rpms i tried it:thumbsup:
 

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That translogic titanium unit sounds the shiz:mrgreen: I couldnt imagine anything better then what ive got with just the RL version, even in just default mode..
It was well smooth enough for me at all the rpms i tried it:thumbsup:
Don't get me wrong the Anatori is probably the best value for money stand alone QS on the market and I wouldn't buy anything below that in terms of features so your on a good thing.

The Translogic is the shiz but it costs a fair bit more to, best bang for your buck is probably what you bought, I only bought the Translogic because I got a ride on a bike with a Translogic fitted and couldn't get over how good it was. If I hadn't had a chance to use it I would have gone the Anatori RL also.
 

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I like it!

I close the throttle for a split second and shift. If I do it correctly, I feel no jerky sensation on the bike, it's like I never changed gears. Going from from first to second is the one that's harder to master, upper gears seem to be easier. :cool:

Does anybody know if you can downshift the same way?
 

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I close the throttle for a split second and shift. If I do it correctly, I feel no jerky sensation on the bike, it's like I never changed gears. Going from from first to second is the one that's harder to master, upper gears seem to be easier. :cool:

Does anybody know if you can downshift the same way?
Just sayin, I can do that without a quickshifter. Youre not supposed to let off the throttle with a quickshifter, its so you can stay pinned.
 

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I've raced for a long time and the best quick shifter I've ever used is the bazzaz by far it lets you have a different kill time for each gear. But having said that i was running an ex vesrah GSXR 1000 last year with one of Mark's custom setups using the yosh ecu that was very quick lol. This year we running a ZX 10 we will see what my engine builder thinks of kaki kit ecu setup :)
The quick shift also helps in the bikes handling doesn't up set the chassis during shifts
 

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I close the throttle for a split second and shift. If I do it correctly, I feel no jerky sensation on the bike, it's like I never changed gears. Going from from first to second is the one that's harder to master, upper gears seem to be easier. :cool:

Does anybody know if you can downshift the same way?
the reason for a quick shifter is to not have to throttle blimp the qs does it.


blipping to downshift is just as easy clutch less .
the qs has no out put for down shifting
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Can I ask why you installed Dynojet shifter and Not a Strain gauge sensor??
$ $ $ $ $ ! ! !

As I've read that coil control is better than fuel management when it comes to quickshifters.
I have the Dynojet one connected to a PCIIIusb, which cuts fuel only.

It works OK for the purpose that it is intended, wide open throttle acceleration near redline.

One issue that I had with it is that the device would frequently false-trigger at an RPM lower than what I had the threshold set to. The other issue was that under conditions other than full-throttle acceleration, I typically use the clutch to smooth the shift so that it is as bumpless as possible ... and the quickshifter responds by cutting fuel for a moment on top of that, which resulted in a nasty lurch and hesitation. Combine that with the false-triggering at RPM lower than the set threshold, and driveability during regular day-to-day riding was a mess.

But ... I fixed it.

I bought a little microswitch for about $4, and made a bracket to support it near the clutch actuation arm (by picking up two of the bolts for the clutch cover to support the bracket), and wired the normally-open contacts of that switch in series with the quick-shift sensor. The net result is that if I have the clutch lever pulled in even slightly, the quick-shifter switch signal is blocked from getting to the Power Commander, but if I'm not on the clutch lever, the signal goes through normally.

Thanks to mild spring weather, I was finally able to test this today and it is PERFECT. It does exactly what it should. Use the clutch ... shifting is as per normal (even at wide-open throttle). Don't use the clutch ... quickshift, and the changeover is automatic, depending entirely on whether I use the clutch or not, just as it should be!
 

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$ $ $ $ $ ! ! !



I have the Dynojet one connected to a PCIIIusb, which cuts fuel only.

It works OK for the purpose that it is intended, wide open throttle acceleration near redline.

One issue that I had with it is that the device would frequently false-trigger at an RPM lower than what I had the threshold set to. The other issue was that under conditions other than full-throttle acceleration, I typically use the clutch to smooth the shift so that it is as bumpless as possible ... and the quickshifter responds by cutting fuel for a moment on top of that, which resulted in a nasty lurch and hesitation. Combine that with the false-triggering at RPM lower than the set threshold, and driveability during regular day-to-day riding was a mess.

But ... I fixed it.

I bought a little microswitch for about $4, and made a bracket to support it near the clutch actuation arm (by picking up two of the bolts for the clutch cover to support the bracket), and wired the normally-open contacts of that switch in series with the quick-shift sensor. The net result is that if I have the clutch lever pulled in even slightly, the quick-shifter switch signal is blocked from getting to the Power Commander, but if I'm not on the clutch lever, the signal goes through normally.

Thanks to mild spring weather, I was finally able to test this today and it is PERFECT. It does exactly what it should. Use the clutch ... shifting is as per normal (even at wide-open throttle). Don't use the clutch ... quickshift, and the changeover is automatic, depending entirely on whether I use the clutch or not, just as it should be!
Why would you use the clutch on the up shift ? :) Normally if your having problems with killing early its your foot touching the gear lever been there done that :) From what I remember about the power commander system it only gives u the same gap for all gears which sucks because all gears have different size gaps.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Why would you use the clutch on the up shift ? :) Normally if your having problems with killing early its your foot touching the gear lever been there done that :) From what I remember about the power commander system it only gives u the same gap for all gears which sucks because all gears have different size gaps.
Part-throttle acceleration when riding around town ...

Nothing to do with foot touching the shifter. If I had the quick-shifter activation RPM set to 8000 rpm, it would frequently false-trigger at VERY much lower revs than that - like 5000. If it's set to not activate below 8000 rpm, then it shouldn't activate below 8000 rpm! But it does. I blame crappy PowerCommander software. Probably what's happening is that during transient load conditions (me changing the throttle position quickly, e.g. while shifting normally with the clutch) the ECU is firing the injectors multiple times per cycle instead of once, and the PC is seeing that as higher revs than reality. It would never false trigger at lower revs at full throttle, only at part-throttle puttering around, exactly when I didn't want it ...

Anyhow, it's fixed. It's one of those things that one shouldn't have to fix, but I did, and it does exactly what it should right now.

Although it's true that the higher gears are closer than the lower gears, I'm not sure how this relates to the shift-kill time. The shift-kill time has to be enough for the engagement dogs to pull out of engagement and come in contact with those of the next gear. I don't see how this has much to do with how much the RPM changes on the gearchange. There's no synchromesh on these ...
 

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Yer sorry wasn't even think about riding around town haven't done that in a while . Me and my wife both use the bazzaz setups believe me changing the shift kill times make a hug difference from first to second and 5th to 6th. Some bikes its not bad my suzuki weren't that touchy but her R1 super bike was a night mare to get right especially in the higher gears . The kawi i haven't even sat on that yet LOL but I'm interested to see how thats going to be running off the kit ecu instead of the bazzaz .
 

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Still don't think any of the above mentioned units cut it when compared to the Translogic shifters.

For people that don't understand what kill times do, at low speed you need to cut the ignition for a longer period of time compared to at high rpm where the time required to cut the ignition is very short.

Most shifters need to have there kill time pre programmed and what may work at low rpm does not necessarily work so well at high rpm and visa versa.

While it's helpful to be able to pre program the Bazzaz shifter for every gear it still means that you have to pick a pre determined kill time which will never be ideal (just read the above posts), it may be ok across majority of the rev range but not perfect and allot of shifters on stock bikes like Aprillia's and some Ducati's don't operate below certain rpm for that exact reason, the kill times won't work across the whole rev range.

The Translogic system requires no pre picking of kill times, it is a stand alone unit with its own ECU that pics the kill time for you every time you shift, there are 100's of available kill times stored in the ECU and it will pick the appropriate one based on the ignition pulse it reads at the time of your shift.

It's a much smarter system than most units on the market and if you haven't used one I would strongly suggest checking them out. They are a more expensive system but for a very good reason.

Some race guys had tried to tell me that they only needed a short kill time because all there changes where done flat out, not true...I am often short shifting between gears and this is where the smarter systems shine.

Perfect shift every time, no matter the rpm!
 
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