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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know the inside hole size for the rear shock washers used to increase ride height?

Part numbers would be great!
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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The G5 uses the same shock mount as the G4. The G4 uses an M16x1.50 nut.

Get a jam nut that is 6mm thick (standard for the stainless jam nuts) and put it between the collar and the frame.


 

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Thx

Any preferred method of doing this?
What do you mean? Installation? Or nut versus washers?

You basically have to remove the shock, put the nut on, and then put the shock back in. Only a couple of steps more than the race kit washers which have an open side to slide in. But that kit is $72 and this nut is less than $2. And the nut is infinitely adjustable from 6mm up and easier to adjust. The downside is if you want to go less than about 6mm of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I meant removing the shock. I am more familiar with vertical shock removal than one at a 45 ish degree angle.

The method i have used in the past is a small jack on the rear wheel and lifting the rear sub frame.
I was not sure if that same method would work here?
 

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I meant removing the shock. I am more familiar with vertical shock removal than one at a 45 ish degree angle.

The method i have used in the past is a small jack on the rear wheel and lifting the rear sub frame.
I was not sure if that same method would work here?
The shock connects the swingarm to the frame. Once you support the frame and take the weight off the rear wheel, it's the same whether the shock is laying down or vertical to remove it from that point. The thing here is that you don't really need to remove the whole shock, just the top clevis. So do what you've done in the past.
 

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I'll detail this process for all the 1st time shock removers out there. I did this job at home with no specialty tools.
1. Place the bike on a rear stand
2. Slide a metal rod (bought at a hardware store for a few bucks) through the swingarm pivot hole. Note that the hole is smaller on the right side.
3. Jack up the front of the bike under the exhaust gusset to get both tires off the ground. No it won't crush your manifold.
4. Lower the jack until the metal rod is supported on jack stands on either side of the bike. The bike will tip forward onto the front tire and the rear wheel is now hanging up in the air.
5. Remove the tail, seat and tank to expose the top of the shock.
6. Place the jack underneath the rear tire to unload the shock and remove the top nut securing the shock. Maybe the rear stand could do this job as well but for some reason I jacked up the tire instead.
7. slowly lower the jack until the swingarm pivots downward and the shock backs out of the frame mount then install your washers or jam nut. That's it. Reverse everything and you're done!

btw, the iron rod I bought wasn't extremely rigid and it kinked a little under the weight of the bike but it not enough to cause a problem. It would also help to have another person around to support the bike from tipping but not essential if you're careful.
 

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The 2 nuts sandwich the frame mount. 44ft-lbs or something close to that is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you know a good place to get the correct thickness jam nut?

Home depot and Lowes dont sell it and the ones on the internet have many different widths, some up to 8mm, which is too wide!

A lot of places only sell in bulk.

Thx
 

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Or you could grind a slot in the nut (or washers) so they are slotted like the race kit shims (which I have). Then you just have to loosen the shot nut to get enough of a gap to slip it in. But it's probably not much more to just lower the swingarm enough to let the top of the shock slide out.





I used large flat washers on my 600s and that's probably what I would use on the 10 as well if I didn't have the shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did you get the washers?

I was in Lowe's this morning and they did not have any that were large enough.
 

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Ace hardware. They have a great selection of stainless metric hardware. The jam nut was $1.50.
 

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The idea with the nut is that you can easily turn it a half, full, quarter, 2 turns, etc to set the ride height without having to disassemble the upper mount to insert another washer. The only problem is that you can't go less than the thickness of the nut. Luckily the thickness of the nut is right about where you want to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for your help!

Good old Ace hardware!

I get your point about the jam nut thickness. Thermosman suggested 5mm, but some of the jam nuts on the internet were as wide as 8mm and not all of them had width specs.

Some of the companies wanted $2 for the nut and $8 for shipping!!!!
 
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