Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey gang

Anyone with a AR GP2R pipe and has vortex rear sets (or others brands assuming same issue exists) can tell me their solution for the big ass gap between the pipe's mounting point to the rearsets and the rear set? I probably have to get something fabbed but want to see other people's solution.

Need to come up with a solution before Friday night when I hit the track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
If you haven't used the rivet AR supplied to secure the outer of the link to the pipe that connects to the oem ti headers you can swing it around and even bend the Austin mount so it matches up to your rear sets(mine is mounted directly to the 8mm foot peg bolt)
There will be a hole somewhere on rear sets also to use a bolt and nut,I CAREFULLY bent my AR mount to suit!if you need a photo can do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If you haven't used the rivet AR supplied to secure the outer of the link to the pipe that connects to the oem ti headers you can swing it around and even bend the Austin mount so it matches up to your rear sets(mine is mounted directly to the 8mm foot peg bolt)
There will be a hole somewhere on rear sets also to use a bolt and nut,I CAREFULLY bent my AR mount to suit!if you need a photo can do
Peter a pic would be lovely, but yeah, I am using the rivet AR supplied. The gap though looked so big that I didn't thinking swinging the pipe would solve the issue. But I'll try. Thanks for the help bud
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
Here you go

You can drill the rivet out and move the pipe with a much better flowing look with the lines of the back of the bike adjusting this!some ARGP2-GP2R can swing up to much so take your time when doing the hole that is left after you drill the rivet out will be covered by the outer case
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So I got it to move towards the peg and close the big gap but with that move came a problem.. the problem now is that they're not head to head with each other and I need to back the mid pipe out the header by about an inch or so.. worried about leaks if I loosen the collar rivet where the pipe meets the header to pull out the pipe out by an inch or so... what do you think bud? .... I could leave it as is and try to fabricate something. ..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
Check the inside pipes length opposed to the pipe slipping over!mine has about 8mm between the inside pipe and where the outer pipe finishes!no probs at all with this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Guess I have to measure the overlap distance and if there's enough room to pull out midpipe and line up to the peg then shouldn't be a problem ha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
I would lean away from bending. I cut out about a 2 inch by 3/4 inch piece of like 1/4 think aluminum. Rounded the corners, drilled holes in both ends for bolts, and used a steel collar on the one end to bridge the gap. Came out clean as hell, and looks good. Do it all in stainless and you are set. You can see it pretty good in this pic.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
As I said be CAREFULL bending! A pair of vice grips down low on the AR pipe bracket and you will not have problem, it's a minor fab the metal is very flexible! With Satos as you have EJR I removed the M8 stud in footpeg and replaced with a M8-40mm ti round head bolt and sits perfect but I'm anal and admit it and many different mountings is possible! All advice here is great my advice is just that cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, I finally got it to bolt but I tell you that was a bitch of a job. I didn't want to bend the mounting bracket and worry I'd bend it too much or far off target. So, what I did is I took the rear set off, loosened the header bracket so mid pipe can switch and move around, unbolted the footpeg and slid the m8 bolt through the bracket and back in then slowly bolted the peg just to where it held in position. Then remounted the rearsets but not tightened them. Only way I could get the pipe to line up right is by setting the rearsets at the lowest farthest position. Once I lined the pipe, I tightened the midpipe bracket and torqued it. Working the footpeg bolt was really painful as the space is so damn tight. Looking in my tool box I find one of the flexy driver connection (or whatever the fuck they called lol). That made grabbing the bolt a bit easier. I just worked my way tightning the bolt from there and the bracket bent as much as it needed to let the bolt in. Mission accomplished. Only problem I see now is if I need to change the peg's position..... I don't think I would be able to.

But yeah that bracket is indeed flexible as you said Peter
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top