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I am in the process of rebuilding my 07 zx10r and right off the bat i have a question. I am checking my valve clearance but i seem to have an issue where even the smallest feeler on my feeler gauge, which is .004, will not fit between the valve and cam at all. So i went on and not a single one of them will. They seem to be sitting directly on the cam with no clearance.
 

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Well, that's a shitty situation. You have to then pull the cam shafts out, take the bucket off, and check what shim is in there. The valves will tighten up over time as the valves recess into the head. If the buckets are currently riding on the cam lobes already, then you have to see what the clearance is with the shim. Hopefully the shim can be replaced so your clearances are good. Otherwise you'll tear up your valves because they will not close and seal properly because the cam lobe will keep it open slightly.
 

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Would that cause knocking, it not wanting to start and when it does it's a very hard start and won't stay running. Im rebuilding it because of those reasons. It started as a blinking oil pressure light and within a week has become a knocking from the engine, extremely hard and poor start with backfiring when trying to start and it won't stay running.
 

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One more thing. I know the cylinders are numbered from left to right but is it from left to right when sitting on the bike or looking at it from the front?
 

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Figured out the cylinder numbering but what part of the can lobe should be over the can at top dead center. The service manual shows that it is almost to the back of the lobe, with the front of the lobe being where the pointed end is. But mine seem to have the front of the love resting directing on the valve. Is it out of time? I'm not sure what to make of this whole thing. Mine seems to be all out of whack and the top dead center lines are all lined up properly. The timing site little cover shows that the line inside matches the lines on the casing and the when looking at the cams straight on from the side the left cam EX mark is straight with the case on the outside edge and the right cam IN is lined up straight with the case on the outside edge. The marks are on the far sides of the cams away from each other. Exactly like it shows in the factory service manual. The only thing different it seems is the position of the lobes on the valve but I don't see how, since all the lines are aligned properly how it could be any other way.
 

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Another methodical method I picked up some years ago, you have your 16 valve position written on paper so using a clutch hub tool or similar on the starter gear you can turn the engine forward indefinitely ratchet style. Turn engine until any 2 cam lobes on any cam are vertical away from the buckets by eye, now measure those gaps write them on the relevant valve numbers, then turn engine until any other pair are vertical then measure those and so forth until you have all 16 gaps written down. Cam shafts are machined to high tolerances and can be measured anywhere once off lobe. You always check gaps before cam timing because of this. The workshop manual is in fact showing you at what engine timing the most valve gaps can be measured but being more methodical is the way I just explained. When you measure these and if you do have gaps smaller than your smallest feelers then it's best just to subtract the maximum factory gap and on reassembly you will probably have to re adjust the shims again but at least the second time the gap should be measurable. Now if the noise your looking for is piston to valve contact then all those valves need replacing FULL STOP there is no other option. If your gaps are tight as you initially thought then this is not bent valves as they dont close properly and increase the gap. If there all too tight then whilst the bike was stolen it had been abused by smashing against the limiter out of gear, this is all part of why you must strip this motor down.
 

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I do it the same way Michael does it. I turn the motor over until each of the cam lobes are pointing away from the bucket then take my measurement. Does take a bit longer to spin it over a few more times but think we all like to tinker in the garage and working on these bikes is meant to be fun, not doing it to get paid like a mechanic at Kawi would be.

I've also got a spreadsheet I made for my gen 4 that does what Michael does, I just work in spreadsheets all day so I made something to do the math for me. I'm not sure if gen 3's have the same valve clearance but if you'd like the spreadsheet, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send it over. You input the old gap and the old shim measurement and it gives you what shims you'd want to put in to reach the minimum and max clearances. You can then put in what shim you would like and it spits out (in theory assuming your measurements were right) what the new gap would be. I found it useful as when I tried doing this on paper I somehow messed up the math on a few valves and had to take the cams out and re-assemble more times than I care to admit lol.

444061


The oil pressure light and the knocking sound from your other thread makes me think spun bearing. Have you drained your oil? Any metal glitter in the oil?
 

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Would that cause knocking, it not wanting to start and when it does it's a very hard start and won't stay running. Im rebuilding it because of those reasons. It started as a blinking oil pressure light and within a week has become a knocking from the engine, extremely hard and poor start with backfiring when trying to start and it won't stay running.
It won't expect it to cause a knocking noise. But that will depend on whether or not the valves are slamming into the cam shafts on close if there's no gap. It most certainly can cause hard starting or poor running if the valves are not sealing well in the pocket and allowing for a loss of compression.

Cylinders are 1 -> 4 from left to right.

A couple different ways to check the clearances and both michael and C3L1CA have given you the information that works. Turning the motor over on the timing gear connected to the crankshaft while in neutral is the easier way to spin the motor.

What I find interesting is that the marks don't line up for you as indicated. That would lead me to believe that the timing chain is stretched or the camshaft guide is screwed up to the point the markings aren't in position. Once you tear it all down, check the timing chain chain stretch and/or replace that to make sure the markings all hit the points at TDC.
 

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Aligning the marks on the cam shaft to the outside case will only line up half the valves.

Have to rotate cams and line up on the inside for other half of valves.

TDC piston #1 and TDC piston #4
 
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