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Discussion Starter #1
I did some searching and looked at all I could find. I'm planning on doing some maintenance this winter to include checking the valve clearances. This is my first time doing this, so just seeing if anybody that's previously done it on their Gen 4 had any tips or tricks. I have the service manual in hand and don't foresee any issues. But figured I'd take any advice from those who know more than I do. Thanks.


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I did my first valve adjustment (on my Gen 4) a couple months ago. It was so satisfying doing it by myself!

It was straightforward for the most part. Here are a few points to consider:

- make your life easier by putting masking tape tags on all the various plug ends to match them back up after.
- you'll have to cut the rubber mat in a couple places which the manual doesn't mention as far as I recall.
- zap strap the timing chain onto the cam gears and crankshaft sprocket to preserve the timing and tilt the cams out of the way without removing them entirely. It'll be a little tight getting to the buckets for cylinder 4 but there will be enough room. I pulled my cams out the first time but still had to adjust a valve after re-installing and used the zip tie method the 2nd time around which was faster.
- make sure you have a pivoting magnet tool to extract those buckets.
- I used more 1.80 shims than any other size but I also have higher mileage (though relatively low rpm) than most bikes. I believe that most of my required shims were in the 1.75-1.85 range.
- this miniature ratchet combined with a 4mm allen bit will also make the job much faster when re/re'ing the cam cover bolts. They have a zillion threads and take FOREVER with an allen key, especially for the bolts tucked way back under the frame spar.

Naro Ratchet Driver & Bit Set | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome, thanks for the replies. I already have the ratcheting driver which has made life a lot easier doing other jobs as well. I'm looking forward to doing it since I love working on the bike and love learning new things about it.


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Also have some cardboard handy. There's a piece of compressed foam sandwiched between the radiator and cylinder head. Once you remove the valve cover, the foam expands and overlaps with the mating surface of the cover. I cut a piece of cardboard and slipped it in front of the foam to push it back out of the way which gives you more room to do the service.

It's hard for me to explain but you'll see what I mean once you expose the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I remember see something about this before, but is the rubber mat just for sound? Heat? Or both? And is there any issues with just removing it completely? I can't find where it was mentioned before. I know it was a while ago.


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I did mine on my fiances 08 zx6r and my 07 zx6r track bike. Follow this dudes video. He is pretty spot on except one part later on when setting tdc. He said the manual is weong but its right. He forgot that one rotation of the crank does not equal 1 rotation of the cams. Other then that he is spot on.

https://youtu.be/dMSJriAucTo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's there for both noise reduction and heat reduction. If it was just for noise, I probably would have taken it out. I have it folded out of the way completely, just debated on removing it completely.
 

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It's there for both noise reduction and heat reduction. If it was just for noise, I probably would have taken it out. I have it folded out of the way completely, just debated on removing it completely.
I'm debating not putting whats left of it back in. Such a pain in the ass and none of my bikes have it on the valve cover. Makes sense about reduction though so it wont heat up the air box. But then again the air travels through so fast i doubt it wouls have time to heat up.
 

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There's another good reason to keep it on if you live in rainy climates. In my case I left the rubber mat on. I ride year round in rain or shine and it rains a lot where I live. I noticed that the front wheel kicks a lot of dirty water up into the engine/radiator area and while my motor, valve cover and lower portions of the wiring harness etc. were very dirty, the top area above the mat (air box, underside of tank, ECU etc.) was relatively clean.
 

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I had all my stuff off checked the clearances and realized how out of tolerance they were and didn't want to go through the hassle of ordering shims so I'm just taking it to a shop


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Discussion Starter #16
I had all my stuff off checked the clearances and realized how out of tolerance they were and didn't want to go through the hassle of ordering shims so I'm just taking it to a shop
I would think by that point you're already there. Why put it back together just to pay someone to take it all back apart? There was a site posted where you can order shims individually as needed.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...him?term=shims



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I had all my stuff off checked the clearances and realized how out of tolerance they were and didn't want to go through the hassle of ordering shims so I'm just taking it to a shop


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Hey i have some shims if you know wat size you need that way you could shim your valves yourself and not have pay shop do it for you.

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I would think by that point you're already there. Why put it back together just to pay someone to take it all back apart? There was a site posted where you can order shims individually as needed.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...him?term=shims



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Yeah my issue is more I live in Hawaii so I don't want to wait myself for the shipping when a shop here can do it and get the shims in a day or two and have it done faster


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Most dealerships have the shims in stock due to servicing. If they dont they have to order so either way it doesnt matter if you bring it to them, it wont change the time line any. I needed all 8 exhaust shims ranging from 1.65 to 1.80 and they had all 8 and then some.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Alright, is there a trick to breaking the seal? I can't seem to get the cover to budge. I know all the bolts are out, and I'm trying like hell to lift it up, but I'm getting nowhere.


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