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Discussion Starter #1
I do all the wrenchin' on my bikes, everything from changing the oil to mounting and balancing tires to valve adjustments. Anyway, today I checked the valve clearance for the first time at about 2,800 miles. This thing is a bear to work on. The valves were all in spec, #4 intakes on the tight side. All the back sides of the intakes are clean as a hound's tooth, no carbon. I am gonna take the cams off anyway and map the shims so that I will be able to order shims without removing the cams first the next time I check at around 10,000 miles. Damned shims are around $10 apiece even from Ron Ayers.

Tomorrow I will stick it all back together with a set of those CR8EK plugs and sync the throttle bodies. I'm gonna seal up the airbox and ram tubes with silicone including the drain holes in the airbox.
 

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I dont know about the 10R, but the ZX6R 636 Factory Service Manual has the specs in the back of it. You take what you got for your measurement, then plug in what shim is under the valve and it tells you which shim to order to get the valve back in spec.

See if you can find a service manual and check it out and see if the 10R is the same. It should save you some time in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya gotta know what shim is in there first. To find that out you must remove the cams. On the ZX-10R it is pretty simple as each smaller shim increases the clearance by about .001".
 

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Given how hard everyone says this bike is to work on, I'm waiting until 24,000 kilometers for the first major service (as per shop manual schedule). I have not gone in any further than changing the oil! The big service on mine will probably be over this coming winter ... it's at 18,000 km now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, got the cams off and back on with no problems. It is nice that the edge of the head is not between the frame rails. Mapped all the shims and swapped two around. The shims ranged from 178 to 190, just six sizes. Adjusting the clearance is very straight forward, going one shim smaller opens up the clearance .001", going one shim larger closes it up .001" Plugs that came out looked very good and uniform. Stuck in the CR9EKs

While I had the radiator loose I check the torque on the head pipe nuts. All were loose, very loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It has been my experience with Kawasakis that the valves change quite a bit during the break in process and then remain fairly stable after that. The reason they don't check the valves at the 600 mile check is that it is such a bitch. I will probably check them again at 10,000 miles.

The same goes for the use of the iridium plug. They use it because they know it will probably never get changed not because it produces more power.
 
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