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Discussion Starter #1
So if I understand this correctly, the timing retarder eliminator (TRE) is supposed to allow the bike to run without timing retarding in the first 4 gears. So this allows the bike to accelerate as it should barring emissions and safety concerns.

Benefits:
1. smoother transition on/off throttle in first 4 gears at any rpm.
2. more power in first 4 gears.
3. Bolt on, no splicing (Ivan's).

My questions:
1. How is rideability? Improved?
2. Any adverse affects?
3. When you are cranked over and about to feed the throttle, will the TRE increase smooth power delivery?

I read on the list that some users have an abnormally high idle for the first 20 seconds or so? Awsome how-to install guide in the performance section btw.

For those who did the mod, would you do it again?

Would prefer comments to those who have real world experience using this.

Thanks all!
 

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In my talking with Ivan, the kawasaki TRE has nothing to do with the timing like it does on a Suzuki but more with bypassing one of the emissions systems in the ECM that cuts fuel off under decel which is what causes the abrupt throttle on the 10.

you also should do the sub throttle sensor mod also at the same time as doing the TRE. Ivan also told me that you really need to have the ability to remap the bike (PCIII) as it will be richer on the bottom part of the map after the mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sneaky said:
In my talking with Ivan, the kawasaki TRE has nothing to do with the timing like it does on a Suzuki but more with bypassing one of the emissions systems in the ECM that cuts fuel off under decel which is what causes the abrupt throttle on the 10.

you also should do the sub throttle sensor mod also at the same time as doing the TRE. Ivan also told me that you really need to have the ability to remap the bike (PCIII) as it will be richer on the bottom part of the map after the mod.
So to do the "tre" mod properly, I need the tre, sub thottle sensor and power commander? I take it that Ivan sells these the parts to do the sub throttle sensor mod? I ordered the racefit mega slipon, otherwise my bike is bone stock. Some other racefit users on suzukis need the power commander, but other 10r owners with slip ons seem to get by on without. I guess I won't know until I install it (its in the mail!).

Other than checking spark plug colour, how do you check whether its running lean?
 

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You will not need anything but the TRE and a PCIII. The sub throttle sensor mod is mearly undoing two bolts and turning the sensor in a direction. Ivan goes into great detail about hos to do this mod. You will need some Tamper Proof Torx bits in order to remove loosen the sensor bolts.

The best way to check air/fuel is going to be on a dyno. I know old school types can read plugs, but I gave that up years ago when FI came out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sneaky said:
You will not need anything but the TRE and a PCIII. The sub throttle sensor mod is mearly undoing two bolts and turning the sensor in a direction. Ivan goes into great detail about hos to do this mod. You will need some Tamper Proof Torx bits in order to remove loosen the sensor bolts.

The best way to check air/fuel is going to be on a dyno. I know old school types can read plugs, but I gave that up years ago when FI came out.
Thanks sneaky. Excuse my ignorance, but what does the sub throttle sensor mod do? (different that bypassing the exhaust flapper?) What are the benefits? Do you have a link where I can read more about it?

On the dyno, do you hook up an air/fuel meter and watch the ratio as it burns through the rpms? I used to do it this way with my car, but been out of the game so to speak for a few years.... its was still FI though:) How does everyone know what their air/fuel ratio is or whether they are running the best map?
 

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The sub throttle mod is just a matter of turning the sensor to a different position to give the computer a different reading after installing the TRE.

If you have someplace that has a dyno they will have the air/fuel stuff to do the measurements for you. It should be included in the dyno runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sneaky said:
The sub throttle mod is just a matter of turning the sensor to a different position to give the computer a different reading after installing the TRE.

If you have someplace that has a dyno they will have the air/fuel stuff to do the measurements for you. It should be included in the dyno runs.
ahhh, that makes sense. Thanks! :thumbsup:

You seem quite knowledgeable on this a/f ratio subject, should I be concerned about not running a PCIII with my slip on?
 

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Dont turn the sensor It is not needed I have the dyno charts to prove it. you could fuck up your throtle bodies just put the piece in and seal her up LEAVE THE THROTLE BODIES ALONE!!!! DO NOT adjust the sub throtle senor! leave it in the factory location!
 

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a pc3 is alway a good idea
 

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sczx10r,
Did you notice any difference in the power from idle up to 5,000rpm when you put the sub-throttle back to it's original position compared to when it was rotated forward?
 

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I personally am just not going to do the mod, the throttle smoothness is not that critical to me plus I will save my self some money. I called Ivan to ask him about it and for what it does I dont really see the need for it for me personally.

And by the way from what Ivan tells me and from knowledge of ecm of cars and what not, it is not about thottle soothness when you do the sub throttle mod. The ECM goes into a default mode when you do the TRE cause you are basically bypassing part of teh system with this mod, turning the sub throttle assembly is suppossed to get the ecm back into the normal mode.
 

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Well then explain my "FI light....... By the way the code and you'll get this later is 23
 

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IF the sub throttle sensor is anything like the TPS on cars thet operate on a 5vlt system.

Lets say .5 is suppossed to be idle and 4.67 is WOT, when you mess with the sub throttle sensor and rotate it forward you in essence are telling the ECM that WOT is now a different value. When you rotated yours you may have went to far and went past the max value set in the ecm.

This is a guess though, but it is very simular to what happens on a car.
 
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