[2TonGen1]

So i got a new set of tires mounted and balanced sometime last week, get home put the front on with no problems torquing the axle to 81 ft/lb. Wheel spins freely with zero resistance. Move around to the rear, mount the chain, insert rear axle, roughly adjust chain slack. Go to torque the the axle nut down to 81 ft/lb and the rear wheel is entirely too stiff (wont easily spin forward by hand) to ride. On top of all of that the holes for the cotter pin on the axle are in front of the castle nut so it wouldn't really keep the nut from rotating from vibration.

So I'm under the impression that my swing arm is pinched to some degree? or I'm not doing something correct.. I followed the owners manual to a tee with both front and rear wheels. I did not forget the 2 collars for each wheel. Either could someone give an opinion on it, or measure the width of their gen 1 swing arm from the inside (at end of swing arm). Thanks in advance for anyone with some insight!

Just quick insight, i purchased the bike from a gentlemen in his mid 50s about 2 years ago with decent tire tread left on them. A well taken care of bike with just under 10k on the odo at the time. A small box of receipts for aftermarket parts and maintenance. I live in Oregon so there's maybe 3-4 months a year of enjoyable riding weather (why it took 2 years to change the tires).

FWIW picture is his he took for ad. Don't have any other pictures of it on my PC at the time but will upload more soon for whomever appreciates a clean gen 1.

 

[alexei]

hello and welcome

When you say 'On top of all of that the holes for the cotter pin on the axle are in front of the castle nut so it wouldn't really keep the nut from rotating from vibration.'

• Does this mean the castle nut is screwed in more than it needs to be, and now the cotter pin no longer goes between the grooves of the castle nut?
• If so, means something is missing.

Check the sprocket hub and make sure the inner bearing sleeve is not missing (part code 42036 below). The other two collars (part code 92152A and 92152B) are easily seen from the outside, but not this one.

Parts diagram here:

2004 Kawasaki NINJA ZX-10R (ZX1000-C1) Rear Wheel/Chain | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Shop online for OEM Rear Wheel/Chain parts that fit your 2004 Kawasaki NINJA ZX-10R (ZX1000-C1), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

www.kawasakipartshouse.com

 

[alexei]

Adding on, you might have damaged some bearings if above is true.
Please please check the bearings for free-play and replace any.

 

[2TonGen1]

Adding on, you might have damaged some bearings if above is true.
Please please check the bearings for free-play and replace any.

Thanks for the welcome! I'm not totally sure how to properly reply to messages on here, but bare with me. That's exactly what i mean about the holes for the pin being to far past the teeth on the nut. I'll go tear the rear off again and take a look, see if 42036 is the missing link. I can confirm that part 92152b and 92152 are there from when i reinstalled today. Will reply with what i find, or dont..

 

[Gen101]

Looks like aftermarket bodywork

Weird problem. I just installed a new sprocket on my bike and torqued to spec (plus a little more) after adding marine grease to rear axle and spins very easily

 

[michael4012]

Are you sure the wheel spacers are the correct way around? If you have left & right wrong the wrong way around then you have probably crushed one of your bearings! And potentially damaged your swing arm.

 

[2TonGen1]

Are you sure the wheel spacers are the correct way around? If you have left & right wrong the wrong way around then you have probably crushed one of your bearings! And potentially damaged your swing arm.

Yes, %100 they are. Caliper side is smaller in diameter than sprocket side. As far as the sleeve goes (P#42036) it looks like on the diagram that it is behind the sprocket in between the two sets of bearings. If that's the case, I'm thinking the shop i took it to might have lost it after balancing on a machine? would they need to remove the sprocket for balancing? Sorry if that doesnt make sense, its 4am and ive been up a while trying to find the issue.

 

[2TonGen1]

Looks like aftermarket bodywork

Weird problem. I just installed a new sprocket on my bike and torqued to spec (plus a little more) after adding marine grease to rear axle and spins very easily

Correct, the guy that had it before me was really into MOTOGP. I'm pretty sure he was going for the 2008 ZXRR look from back in the day

When you took your sprocket hub off the wheel, was there anything inside that resembled part 42036?

 

[michael4012]

Yes the shop will have for sure removed the sprocket carrier to chang the tyre, so yes I would check to see the small spacer that's behind the carrier bearing and onto the wheel bearing is there, the actual axle sleeve they wouldn't have to remove but possibly they removed it, you should be able to see that easily without removing the wheel.

 

[2TonGen1]

Yes the shop will have for sure removed the sprocket carrier to chang the tyre, so yes I would check to see the small spacer that's behind the carrier bearing and onto the wheel bearing is there, the actual axle sleeve they wouldn't have to remove but possibly they removed it, you should be able to see that easily without removing the wheel.

Okay, under that assumption i believe that the shop must have taken it off and not replaced it. I only took the wheel off the swing arm and nothing further prior to dropping it off at the shop. I also can see the longer axle sleeve in between the 2 bearings. Ill call them tomorrow and see if they have anything to say, otherwise ill place an order online for the part. Either way ill let you know how it goes. Thanks much for your guys help!

 

[Gen101]

This is why I always remove the wheel(s) myself when I need a chain/sprocket/tire change, I don't trust these fast food shops to rush through another job and f something up

 

[alexei]

If this were the case, you won't be the first...

 

[2TonGen1]

I was going to wait to update the post till i got the part, but I'm confident the issue was the sleeve/spacer. So i ordered a new one from partfish because the shop didn't have a clue what i was talking about when i asked about it... So thanks to everyone for the help, I really appreciate everyone's time and efforts! This forum is probably the best tool you 10R owner can have.

 

[msowell]

......and shops wonder why people have trust issues. Hopefully that will get you fixed up!

 

[Porschenut]

If you're going to all this trouble, maybe consider getting captive rear spacers. I hated wrestling with my rear wheel and the sheer frustration of having the OEM spacers fall out repeatedly. The captive spacers were a God send.

 

[scout]

Thought the bike was 2014; hate it when I do that.

 

[2TonGen1]

After installing part 42036 (sleeve for sprocket hub) and riding around the block a few times, everything is back to normal. Thanks again for the help fellas.

 

[rcannon]

If you're going to all this trouble, maybe consider getting captive rear spacers. I hated wrestling with my rear wheel and the sheer frustration of having the OEM spacers fall out repeatedly. The captive spacers were a God send.

We can't get anything for the inside spacer, under the sprocket carrier, can we? That one that halfway stays in place, but falls out when you are not looking

 

[Porschenut]

We can't get anything for the inside spacer, under the sprocket carrier, can we? That one that halfway stays in place, but falls out when you are not looking

I've never come across an aftermarket one that replaces the inside spacer.

 

[stuartb]

If you're going to all this trouble, maybe consider getting captive rear spacers. I hated wrestling with my rear wheel and the sheer frustration of having the OEM spacers fall out repeatedly. The captive spacers were a God send.

️ 1 on Captive spacers.. I'm pretty sure I have a set in the garage..I'm in the UK tho.

Stu

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