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Discussion Starter #1
i took off the radiator, put a restrictor plate and just looped my cooling system back to itself. bike does well sense i dont fire it up till i'm ready to do my burn out but i was thinking of just taking out all the water and leaving it dry, no water pump either, obviously. some people say i should run some cement

its just a stock zx10 motor, thin head gasket, 3 degrees advanced and E85 fuel. i will eventually run some squeeze but nothing crazy
 

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lots of grudge racers run dry blocks and some even use hard block for a few different reasons...some think, it takes some of the heat out of the cylinders and others use it to add some strength so the cylinders dont move

this is from the hardblock website

HARD BLOK WATER JACKET FILLER is a specially formulated, cement-based product with refined, size-graded iron particles combined at an optimum ratio to provide maximum strength, vibration dampening, and heat dissipation required in high performance race engines. Its coefficient of thermal expansion is identical to cast iron engine blocks. Product has been tested and proven effective in aluminum blocks.

* Remains stable at all operating temperatures. Does not soften when exposed to high heat, nor erode under water.
* Fills the smallest spaces in the water jacket. Does not shrink or pull away from the cylinder walls. Does not expand.
* Extends cylinder wall life both by preventing cracked walls and by causing the walls to wear truer. Honing is minimized during rebuilds.
* A race-proven advantage used by winners in all types of racing since 1986.
* Non-hazardous and non-corrosive. Contains no toxic material. Once hard, it cannot be removed from the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
lots of grudge racers run dry blocks and some even use hard block for a few different reasons...some think, it takes some of the heat out of the cylinders and others use it to add some strength so the cylinders dont move

this is from the hardblock website

HARD BLOK WATER JACKET FILLER is a specially formulated, cement-based product with refined, size-graded iron particles combined at an optimum ratio to provide maximum strength, vibration dampening, and heat dissipation required in high performance race engines. Its coefficient of thermal expansion is identical to cast iron engine blocks. Product has been tested and proven effective in aluminum blocks.

* Remains stable at all operating temperatures. Does not soften when exposed to high heat, nor erode under water.
* Fills the smallest spaces in the water jacket. Does not shrink or pull away from the cylinder walls. Does not expand.
* Extends cylinder wall life both by preventing cracked walls and by causing the walls to wear truer. Honing is minimized during rebuilds.
* A race-proven advantage used by winners in all types of racing since 1986.
* Non-hazardous and non-corrosive. Contains no toxic material. Once hard, it cannot be removed from the block.

have you dry blocked yours?

if you run the cement, then your not really droppin weight right? or is the cement still lighter than the water, do you think?
 

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With the one-piece engine case, you won't gain much by filling the water jacket. Plus the cement is a one-way deal, race motor only.

But you can pull the water pump and run it dry, save a few hp spinning the pump, and a few pounds. If you're going that far, you might pull the stator and flywheel and just charge the battery between passes, take some weight and resistance off the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With the one-piece engine case, you won't gain much by filling the water jacket. Plus the cement is a one-way deal, race motor only.

But you can pull the water pump and run it dry, save a few hp spinning the pump, and a few pounds. If you're going that far, you might pull the stator and flywheel and just charge the battery between passes, take some weight and resistance off the crank.
i would like to be able to push my bike to the water box, turn it on, do the burn out and HOPEFULLY drive it back to the pit...but if i cant, i might as well rip the damn stator and flywheel out
 

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I used to blow head gaskets on my nitrous ZRX all the time, and eventually gave up and ran it dry. I could ride it to the lanes, let it cool, burnout and make a run, and get back to my trailer without getting too hot. Just be sure to let it cool down between passes, put a fan on it in the pits.
 

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I would say no unless you are going to fully build the bike to run some serious numbers, doing this you are COMPLETLY removing the option of streetability, and if for some reason you ever decide or NEED to sale the bike it leave a much more limited market to sale the bike to.

This is just my opinion.
 

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Certainly no hot-lapping, either. Personally, I wouldn't do it.

If you want to save the drag from the water pump, you could keep the radiator etc and just use a tiny 12-volt electric water pump. Here's one example http://www.spmotostore.com/product_p/mf92.101.htm

The current draw to run this pump is surely less than the mechanical power to run the normal water pump, and it will circulate the water through and maintain the function of the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I used to blow head gaskets on my nitrous ZRX all the time, and eventually gave up and ran it dry. I could ride it to the lanes, let it cool, burnout and make a run, and get back to my trailer without getting too hot. Just be sure to let it cool down between passes, put a fan on it in the pits.
how do i know if the motor gets "too hot" if my thermostat isnt able to be accurate without water being in there? just use one of those infrared hand held thermostats?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Certainly no hot-lapping, either. Personally, I wouldn't do it.

If you want to save the drag from the water pump, you could keep the radiator etc and just use a tiny 12-volt electric water pump. Here's one example http://www.spmotostore.com/product_p/mf92.101.htm

The current draw to run this pump is surely less than the mechanical power to run the normal water pump, and it will circulate the water through and maintain the function of the radiator.
its not so much i am trying to save drag. i put a sidewinder from an 04/05 on my 06 and it interfered with the lower mounting bracket of the radiator as well as the lower portion of the radiator. rather than spend the money to get it cut or buy a tini radiator i figured id just save the money and weight and take it off completely
 

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its not so much i am trying to save drag. i put a sidewinder from an 04/05 on my 06 and it interfered with the lower mounting bracket of the radiator as well as the lower portion of the radiator. rather than spend the money to get it cut or buy a tini radiator i figured id just save the money and weight and take it off completely
ill buy the sidewinder:)
 

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how do i know if the motor gets "too hot" if my thermostat isnt able to be accurate without water being in there? just use one of those infrared hand held thermostats?
The temperature indicator weather a thermocouple or Resistive Temperature Device will still function, but like you said not as well. The outer block temp gun measurements are crap, you need to know how hot the cylinder liners are.

Some more crap to think about.
Ring clearance will change due to lack of cooling, I am ignorant to the piston and rod setup in the ZX, but if it has oil sprayers, you are going to enlarge ring clearances, if it does not, you are probably going to be running hotter pistons and reduce ring/piston clearances.

head cooling will change, could yield significantly hotter intake charges. as their is no water there to cool exhaust ports or heat rejected in combustion chamber.

I say try it, and report back.
 

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its not so much i am trying to save drag. i put a sidewinder from an 04/05 on my 06 and it interfered with the lower mounting bracket of the radiator as well as the lower portion of the radiator. rather than spend the money to get it cut or buy a tini radiator i figured id just save the money and weight and take it off completely
macintosh will cut the radiator for 100 bucks......best route!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The temperature indicator weather a thermocouple or Resistive Temperature Device will still function, but like you said not as well. The outer block temp gun measurements are crap, you need to know how hot the cylinder liners are.

Some more crap to think about.
Ring clearance will change due to lack of cooling, I am ignorant to the piston and rod setup in the ZX, but if it has oil sprayers, you are going to enlarge ring clearances, if it does not, you are probably going to be running hotter pistons and reduce ring/piston clearances.

head cooling will change, could yield significantly hotter intake charges. as their is no water there to cool exhaust ports or heat rejected in combustion chamber.

I say try it, and report back.

wow, lots to consider. i am hoping all of what you warned is going to be minimal cuz i fire my bike up in the water box and shut it down right after the run. its on for maybe 3 min tops :dontknow:

gonna drain the block after this week's test and tune. will let you guys know how it works for sure:hello:
 

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wow, lots to consider. i am hoping all of what you warned is going to be minimal cuz i fire my bike up in the water box and shut it down right after the run. its on for maybe 3 min tops :dontknow:

gonna drain the block after this week's test and tune. will let you guys know how it works for sure:hello:
minimal is additive though, if you have increased clearances and you the run some squeeze you might start destroying rings or causing pre-ignition or possibly detonation due to the increased temps.

You just gotta try it and see what happens though. Just realize if you get these problems, this is a likely addition to the root cause.
 

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I know this is an old thread,but I need a water pump block off for the 3d gen ZX10

I can have somebody make me one but I'd rather just buy it and save me some trouble...
 

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I know this is an old thread,but I need a water pump block off for the 3d gen ZX10

I can have somebody make me one but I'd rather just buy it and save me some trouble...

The usual eshops has so many stuff for gixxer but I can't find anything for ZX10s,I only found this but I don't if it will fit it's listed for ZX14
Call DME they have them for the 10's
 
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