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Discussion Starter #1
I was finally able to get my 08 to the track after doing everything this winter and I was a little disappointed. Best pass for the night was a 9.47, and of course the 60' Clock wasn't working so it's hard to see. My clutch since the dragpack and brocks clutch mod feels funny. If I'm at a dead stop and slowly let it out it kind of is jerky when I remember before I could slowly let it out with out giving it gas and I never felt it. Not sure if that's normal with the clutch mod or if I'm having clutch issues. But like I said I can't really tell bc there was no 60' clock. My next worry is that my fuel MR12 is old. I picked it up from a shop here on Ohio back in March and have stored it in a pretty well sealed gas can. Either way I was a little disappointed. It was about 80 degrees that day with 70% humidity and I was talking to a guy in a gen2 zx14 who was running 151mph and he said he usually runs around 155. Not sure if the time slip can show if my clutch is slipping or what and not knowing the 60' doesn't help either but could the humidity affect it that much. I put down 171 with MR12 on Ryan Schnitz dump with a hook up so I figured she would have done a little better than 9.4. That's foot shifting but still thought it would be better or atleast have better mph. What do you guys think.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stock motor? Rider weight? Clutch shouldn't be jerky.
yes stock motor, Full brocks, flashed ecu, dyno tuned, -1+4, k&n Race filter, pc3 and running mr12. Sits at about 64". Im about 180 suited. Its just when im at a dead stop and slowly let it out giving it no gas. Im not sure if its in my head or not. i noticed after my tune it seems like i need to bump the idle up a little bit also.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Look over the grooves in the clutch basket also to make sure there are not any rough spots for the fibers to catch on as they move in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Look over the grooves in the clutch basket also to make sure there are not any rough spots for the fibers to catch on as they move in and out.
Will do, thanks man. That diagram is correct right? about the two "anti chatter" springs or whatever their called being after the first steel and before the second fiber right? for some reason like I said I dont think thats how i had them, but maybe. and I remember them being somewhat rounded and not perferctlly flat, do you know if the rounded part goes in towards the engine or away from the engine? sorry for all the questions if you dont know, no big deal. I messaged dwayne from cycle concepet asking about the plates making sure I have those in the right way.
 

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Hopefully the springs are the issue with the clutch. Many times though the Brocks mod makes the clutch more like a lockup clutch and those are very grabby.
 

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just ran both 10's last month at big grudge race. heat similiar/humidity high. both off about 2 10's and 3-4 mph in the 1/8. everybody same results that day. fresh can of mr12 used. ran cup race in nov. couple of years ago with new can of mr12, only used about a gal. or so. ran same fuel at next cup in early april and lost .25 sec in the 1/4. made several passes all same. fresh fuel put bike right back where it was. think combo of conditions/fuel all that's wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
just ran both 10's last month at big grudge race. heat similiar/humidity high. both off about 2 10's and 3-4 mph in the 1/8. everybody same results that day. fresh can of mr12 used. ran cup race in nov. couple of years ago with new can of mr12, only used about a gal. or so. ran same fuel at next cup in early april and lost .25 sec in the 1/4. made several passes all same. fresh fuel put bike right back where it was. think combo of conditions/fuel all that's wrong.
Thanks gaz! I'll pick up a new 5 gallon drum. It's been stored in my garage since i bought it in March in an autozone gas can. And I bought it from a shop who had it in a 50 gallon drum. They said it was only a couple months old but I only picked up about 5 hp on the dyno with it. Hopefully with some new fuel I'll be happy. I plan on getting a fridge in my garage to store it in!
 

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I'd personally shit can the gen2-4 clutch setup and run a gen1 clutch.
Just to prove my point to my wife and her fears of changing clutches from newer to older style. I changed it from a stock gen3 clutch with the 2 springed things to a gen1 OEM clutch. She didn't know the damn difference and she is always complaining about the feel in the clutch.
For the jerking I would check the inner basket, the one that the steels ride on. If there are large notches in the grooves it maybe the issue.
Also maybe I am the only one with this experience but to me the dragpac feels rougher and less precise than an OEM. My last dragpac I always had an issue with it grabbing on my right off the line and I'd go into a small wheelie.
Just my experience but something to look at.
If you have enough extra thinner steels you can make a gen1 clutch pack from your gen3.
Just buy an OEM 04-05" Judder spring plate.
 

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I also have a gen 3 and I back dated my clutches to the 04-05....Dwayne said if u have the big judder metal u don't need the 2 judder springs put back in...just to save u some time....I'm Alison having some issues with my clutch....feels funny...engages a lot quicker than before but I know the stack height is taller but its a pain to find that sweet spot....good luck
 

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vp fuel cans have a coded date on the can label right under the fuel type. there's a series of three different numbers right under the mr12 designation. first one is part #. second is weight of can and third is date of manufacture. it will read like 100/15 which means it was produced the 100th day of 2015. nothing wrong with 5 gal can unopened for 3-4 months. but once opened about 60 days max for best results. nothing like it pretty fresh, but nothing aged. vp also recommends storing mr12 in a airtight metal can only. we figure about 3 cans for the race season.
 

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Blue- did you end up getting your clutch sorted out and the jerkyness to stop?

Patrick- What benefit does putting a gen1 clutch into a gen3 have?

I'm going to be buying a clutch basket with the hays big rivet kit and will need a new set of clutches to put in it. Wanting to educate myself before I spend the $$ for a new setup.

What about the brocks clutch mod? If i'm starting from scratch and replacing the whole basket, is this a necessity for drag racing?

thanks fellas
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Blue- did you end up getting your clutch sorted out and the jerkyness to stop?

Patrick- What benefit does putting a gen1 clutch into a gen3 have?

I'm going to be buying a clutch basket with the hays big rivet kit and will need a new set of clutches to put in it. Wanting to educate myself before I spend the $$ for a new setup.

What about the brocks clutch mod? If i'm starting from scratch and replacing the whole basket, is this a necessity for drag racing?

thanks fellas
Yes a while back I adjusted it a little bit and it solved the problem. I put the brocks clutch mod in the same time as the cycle concepts drag pack and hd springs. It was night and day difference for me ( for the better) but I'm not really sure what made the biggest difference.
 

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my gen 1 had stk. kaw plates and steels, stk judder plate and .090 clutch spring shims made from 12mm home depot washers oblonged to fit pressure plate correctley under the stk. springs. smooth as butter, lasted 3 yrs. still dont have gen 2 right wirh dragpac after trying several spring/shim combos. it holds, but has always been abrupt, sorta in or out launching.higher the spring pressure worse it is. running stk. shimmed springs now but still not smooth. even obvious just pulling off slowly. think ill go back to the complete oem gen 1 setup . got a good chassis but 60 ft. still not where it should be from clutch. clutch is only thing keeping me from reaching my goal. got sold on dragpac from listening to others, but my experience from over the years is oem plates/steels has worked best. launch style has a lot to do with how a hub holds up, unless ur brutal that gen 3 hub with welded rivets should hold, just ck it ocassionally as u should with any hub dragracing. riders are different, clutches same way. just have to find what suits u. oem clutch will hold a lot of hp with spring pressure upped, hard to beat imo.
 

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Thanks for the info guys. Big help!! Since a complete clutch setup whether OEM or dragpak is about the same cost, i'm planning to go with a dragpak with HD springs.
 

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I'm buying a big rivet upgraded basket which is already welded.
 

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but has always been abrupt, sorta in or out launching.higher the spring pressure worse it is. running stk. shimmed springs now but still not smooth. even obvious just pulling off slowly. think ill go back to the complete oem gen 1 setup . got a good chassis but 60 ft. still not where it should be from clutch. clutch is only thing keeping me from reaching my goal. got sold on dragpac from listening to others, but my experience from over the years is oem plates/steels has worked best. launch style has a lot to do with how a hub holds up, unless ur brutal that gen 3 hub with welded rivets should hold, just ck it ocassionally as u should with any hub dragracing. riders are different, clutches same way. just have to find what suits u. oem clutch will hold a lot of hp with spring pressure upped, hard to beat imo.
With Gazx10 on this one over the years yes it's possible to get great times on dragpak I done it myself but still feel OEM is still the BEST ...can't argue with ZXRACER though he has some of the best times ever recorded on a first Gen 10R but he is also the cheapest dude too so wonder how many pacs he goes through at the same time... :lol: .....j/m racer :wink: :eek:ccasion1

bloo
 
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