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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 zx10r and had a odd tapping/ticking noise form over the summer. Took it to my local kawi shop and they checked the top end of motor. Said it was within spec however it does have low compression in cylinder 1, and I'm guessing in bottom end. Any idea what the possible culprit could be or what to look out for when my friends and I decide to tear into this motor? Thank you in advance
 

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Spun bearing too. But before you crack into the motor I would check the cam chain tentioner. Mine was bad and it sounded like it had no oil and the valves were loose and flopping around. I pulled the tentioner out and reset the ratchet thing to zero. Stretched out that spring about 1/2 inch and reinstalled it. First fire up it clicked a few times while it put tention on the chain and then went away completely. Hasn't come back in over 500 miles. I think that noise was so bad that is why the previous owner sold it. But it was an easy fix that didn't cost anything in new parts. Just some time. I have video of before and after. But I have yet to upload it anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the bike has a manual cct on it and was reset and readjusted when the noise first started. Didn't change the sound at all sadly, the noise doesn't get louder with rpms, it actually goes away with rpms and you can't hear it. Once you bring the bike to idle again it comes back at a faster rate than slows down again. We are thinking shims or retainer? Scout I tried the method you suggested and all I heard was the chain on the swing arm lol worth the try so thank you for suggesting that.
 

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So the bike has a manual cct on it and was reset and readjusted when the noise first started. Didn't change the sound at all sadly, the noise doesn't get louder with rpms, it actually goes away with rpms and you can't hear it. Once you bring the bike to idle again it comes back at a faster rate than slows down again. We are thinking shims or retainer? Scout I tried the method you suggested and all I heard was the chain on the swing arm lol worth the try so thank you for suggesting that.
No tick with engine off, rear up, spinning the rear. Check chain for right spot: with a paper shop towel, spray WD40, fold towel and place in left hand; cup the towel over bottom center of chain and gently spin rear in reverse; you're feeling the chain slowly flow through the towel. You'll feel a tight spot if one is there. If so, just replace chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So we pulled the motor and it turns out the that my local dealer didn't pull the valve cover at all or check the valve clearance. Bottom end of motor is in good condition but the valves were super tight, .11mm feeler gauge barely fit. Got a guy about to sell a head to me for 500 but has 28k on it, im curious should I buy it or pay to get the head redone?
 

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0.11mm is super tight for an exhaust valve but that's not a destroyed head. That's just a really overdue valve adjustment so just get that done now. I don't see why you'd need to buy a new head. See the ideal valve clearance ranges on page 59 of the service manual.

Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.)
Intake 0.15 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0087 in.)

I understand that tight valves get quieter, not louder. It just seems like you had a loose timing chain to me. Do you know for sure that the manual CCT was re-set properly and not just reinstalled too loose? I actually prefer the OEM self adjusting CCT for its diagnostic ability. Even if it does a crappy job at self-adjusting and doesn't tension properly, once the chain gets loud you just remove the CCT spring first and pull the ratchet out 2nd to preserve its setting. Then you see what tooth it's on, push it 1 additional tooth and re-install. Even 1 tooth seems to be enough to quiet down the chain.
 
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