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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've spent hours and hours of searching and trying to diagnose what is causing my throttle sticking issue. When ever I accelerate over 6000 rpm the throttle wants to stick when I release. I have to force the throttle forward to close fully. Only happens while riding! Cables are adjusted properly and the throttle opens and snaps closed perfectly when bikes is off. Throttle tube and cable casing dimple is in the clip on bar hole. I took the throttle bodies off earlier today to check the return springs. No corrosion. No visible issues that I could see. The primary return spring tension was not tight but not extremely weak. I would not be aware if this was correct or not. I oiled the springs and reassembled and STILL have the issue. FYI my secondaries are not removed. Has anyone experience this or have any info at all?!?
 

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take the throttle body apart and pull on the single cable to give it gas. release and see if it still does it. it sounds like something is binding. if you physically have to push the throttle back tube back, then its binding. weird though. i hate these weird problems. fcking hate them! GL
 

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did u check ur bar ends. also, when ur steering turns compared to a full left in parked position, the cable could get taut in its sleeve.
 

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Did you twist or spin the throttle bodies at all? I had mine off when I changed motors and they did that because I had spun them over to get them out of the way, I had to take them back off and spin them around again and put them back on and then they were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bar end shouldn't be interfering. I don't believe I spun the throttle body block but that's doesn't mean they couldn't have been spun prior. They bike has had head and cam work done. Egr is also deleted if that info is helpful at all. I thought possible the secondaries opening and closing could be a factor based the the rpm range it occurs around? Any thoughts?
 

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I had IDENTICAL problem!

I had the same issue,but i would rev the motor for it to idel back down. All that stoped when i removed the secondaries. Idk why but it did,and i thaught they were working good they seen to open and shut,all the way,but i removed them just for shits and giggles and its going on 2yrs now and no sticking.
 

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Remove cables, lube them, reinstall verifying routing is correct and readjust tension. Couple ways to lube, I prefer to remove cable, hold vertically, spray in lube on top end while working cable back and forth until it runs out the bottom.

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Lube and corrosion can be a factor...

1. the cable end can get moisture in it if the bike is in the rain, or... washed frequently. Water can find it's way inside the housing and then into the cables... especially if the little boot thingy isn't sealed over the two halfs of the grip housing.

2. the cables run directly over the engine and exhaust so they get plenty warm sitting at lights and what have you...

Water and warm = corrosion.

lubing them is a good thing. It's a lot of work to take them off but its the best way to know if they are working properly.

the absolute perfect is straigh vertical and see if they move... should be near zero resistance. Then move the cable by hand with the housing/cable bent and see if you can feel resistance... anything other then just silky smooth means something is going south inside the housing...

THIS MOST OFTEN HAPPENED WITH THE CHOKE CABLE for me.

you can soak it in oil, or spend some time putting a drop or two on the fully pulled cable, then pull it in and out a few times, then add a drop or two, and repeat until you see oil comming out the bottom.

I have also done some grease packing at the top on mine. just squish a bit of grease into the cable with your finger.. what you are trying to do is make a grease "plug" this will keep water and debris out of the cable, as well as lubing it with every twist... All around good idea I though.

some company used to make a little thing that went around your cable end and had a grease zerk on it so you could pump grease down the cable, just google cable greaser I think.
 

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Grease Monkey Bandit
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Lube and corrosion can be a factor...

1. the cable end can get moisture in it if the bike is in the rain, or... washed frequently. Water can find it's way inside the housing and then into the cables... especially if the little boot thingy isn't sealed over the two halfs of the grip housing.

2. the cables run directly over the engine and exhaust so they get plenty warm sitting at lights and what have you...

Water and warm = corrosion.

lubing them is a good thing. It's a lot of work to take them off but its the best way to know if they are working properly.

the absolute perfect is straigh vertical and see if they move... should be near zero resistance. Then move the cable by hand with the housing/cable bent and see if you can feel resistance... anything other then just silky smooth means something is going south inside the housing...

THIS MOST OFTEN HAPPENED WITH THE CHOKE CABLE for me.

you can soak it in oil, or spend some time putting a drop or two on the fully pulled cable, then pull it in and out a few times, then add a drop or two, and repeat until you see oil comming out the bottom.

I have also done some grease packing at the top on mine. just squish a bit of grease into the cable with your finger.. what you are trying to do is make a grease "plug" this will keep water and debris out of the cable, as well as lubing it with every twist... All around good idea I though.

some company used to make a little thing that went around your cable end and had a grease zerk on it so you could pump grease down the cable, just google cable greaser I think.
+1

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for everyones input. Going to try and get a good lube job on the cables and see what's happens while double checking the routing. I've toyed around with the idea of removing the secondaries flies because I think they could be part of the issue but I just spent $300 on a dyno and I don't want to ruin my spot on a/f curve. I've talked to one local engine builder and a couple tuners that say you should not ride with secondaries removed without a fresh tune..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Removed secondaries tonight. Problem still occurring. I notice when the throttle sticks and I leave it undisturbed the throttle will work it's way shut! Takes about 10-15 seconds to loosen and decelerate from 8000 rpm.. Something has to be pinched!
 

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you got to find it, this is a pretty dangerous condition. People don't realize how much they rely on the throttles auto closing... until they don't.
 

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I had a very similar problem on my 06 years ago. Wrecked on the cherohala skyway in 08 bike was pulling with no throttle input at all in full lean. Knee scraping in jeans...ugly. Anyhow, I tried eveeything you have and more, ended up being electical in nature. I changed wiring harness and throttle body at the same time, normally would have done separately to see which fixed it but I was frustrated by that point. Might have been the tps but if I remember right you cannot get one separate. I started a thread back then I think it was "motor reving by itself" or something alond those lines. As stated before, vwry dangerous, hope you find it.


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you got to find it, this is a pretty dangerous condition. People don't realize how much they rely on the throttles auto closing... until they don't.
until it stays wherever you put it and you use it as a free cruise control like on one of my old commuters. or is that just me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd really love to fix it. I can't get the problem pin pointed. I do not want to spend the money on just throwing parts at it. I wouldn't think it's electrical because I dont have a FI light and never have. The way it acts it seems mechanical. Never does any weird ideal by itself or surges..
 

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If you have new grips or if your grip slides then that's a possibility.
This....... fold your grips back on the front and the back of the throttle insert inward....if still sticking route the cables with the biggest loop in the front to check if it's binding....still no luck remove air box and and get the cables as strait as it can get(may need to remove heat cover)....it shouldn't be that hard to find a sticking point but it's going to take a little work on your part even if you have to remove the throttle bodies to check everything in the system.

bloo
 

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I'd really love to fix it. I can't get the problem pin pointed. I do not want to spend the money on just throwing parts at it. I wouldn't think it's electrical because I dont have a FI light and never have. The way it acts it seems mechanical. Never does any weird ideal by itself or surges..
Just so u know...never had an fi light and I too had to force throttle foreward to stop it from revving up

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There seems to be a lot of jumping around, cable, grips, throttle bodies, etc.

Disconnect the throttle cables at the throttle bodies and test
for free and easy movement of the cables. If they move
free and easy you can eliminate the cables at least.

With the cables off, manually pulling on the throttle bodies, where
the cables attach, do they snap back, are they sticking?

I always look for what's changed recently..... Hmmm... just had a
$300 tune. If cables and throttle bodies are working correctly, can
you disconnect PC and revert back to stock and test?
 
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