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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anybody has any clues to a mysterious problem that has started to occur with my zx-10.

It will randomly cut power off when opening up throttle and rpm climbing above 6000. The rpm will drop straight back to idle speed and leave you hung out to dry like it has on one occasion when i was overtaking a group of cars on the other side of the road. It will correct itself if you return the throttle back to closed postion and then get back on it and it may not occur for the rest of your ride or it may do it 2 or 3 times again.

The best way i can describe it is similair to when the bike runs out of petrol (which i have done) it starts to surge and lose power like the motor is being starved of fuel.

On short rides it doesnt seem to occur at all, but rides longer than 30 mins is where it will usually happen.

It has been going on for about 6 months now, bike has 8000kms on it so probably started at 6000kms. Bike was stock until 2 weeks ago, i had a power commander put in it and a quickshifter and had it put on the dyno and mapped and everything showed up o.k. 172HP at rear wheel and the problem never occured while on the dyno but probably because it only happens on longer rides. I have ridden it a few times since the pc was installed and the problem still occurs on rides over 30 mins.

Dont know what to do about it coz its hard for the mechanic to fix if it doesnt happen in workshop, but i want to get it sorted because thers nothing worse than having the doubt in your mind when you are overtaking or when u really need that power and having it stutter on you.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tasos, yes it had a PC III put in a few weeks ago, havent had fuel pump checked but might be worth a try, cheers.
 

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Throttle position sensor maybe ?

Cheers,
Brian
 

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Wondering if anybody has any clues to a mysterious problem that has started to occur with my zx-10.

It will randomly cut power off when opening up throttle and rpm climbing above 6000. The rpm will drop straight back to idle speed and leave you hung out to dry like it has on one occasion when i was overtaking a group of cars on the other side of the road. It will correct itself if you return the throttle back to closed postion and then get back on it and it may not occur for the rest of your ride or it may do it 2 or 3 times again.

The best way i can describe it is similair to when the bike runs out of petrol (which i have done) it starts to surge and lose power like the motor is being starved of fuel.

On short rides it doesnt seem to occur at all, but rides longer than 30 mins is where it will usually happen.

It has been going on for about 6 months now, bike has 8000kms on it so probably started at 6000kms. Bike was stock until 2 weeks ago, i had a power commander put in it and a quickshifter and had it put on the dyno and mapped and everything showed up o.k. 172HP at rear wheel and the problem never occured while on the dyno but probably because it only happens on longer rides. I have ridden it a few times since the pc was installed and the problem still occurs on rides over 30 mins.

Dont know what to do about it coz its hard for the mechanic to fix if it doesnt happen in workshop, but i want to get it sorted because thers nothing worse than having the doubt in your mind when you are overtaking or when u really need that power and having it stutter on you.

Any help would be much appreciated.
First check yoour battery cables are tight. Next get an ohlm meter and check restance (ohlms through out the throttle travel range). If you have a TRE or powercomander. disconnect 1 at a time and see if the issue continues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the 2006 model have the throttle sensor or did it come out with the normal throttle cable?
If it does have the throttle sensor system im thinking that will be a good place to start checking for sure.
 

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Does the 2006 model have the throttle sensor or did it come out with the normal throttle cable?
If it does have the throttle sensor system im thinking that will be a good place to start checking for sure.
it has a cable but fyi even drive by wire has tps. its just in the throttle itself which sends the signal to the TB
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
O.K interesting, i didnt know that, i will have to check ohms of tps as increasing throttle i guessing to see if there are any funny readings that pop up, cheers.
 

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Tasos, yes it had a PC III put in a few weeks ago, havent had fuel pump checked but might be worth a try, cheers.
I was doing somthinking and you said that you recently installed a PC3 How long after installing did the issue. start. Check the connection where th Pc connects to the throttle bodies also check the power and groud to the pc. How did you tap into the tb/tps wires. search that really closely and report back your findings
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got this issue revolved, changed the fuel from 98 RON to standard unleaded 91, not the sort of fuel i have ever put in any of my bikes but started getting desperate and the problem disappeared almost completely.
The motor then started to ping\knock at low rpm with the motor loaded up with standard unleaded so i have now switched to Shell 95 RON and the bike is running the best it ever has.
Cant figure out why the premium unleaded was causing issues considering it was the only fuel i ever put in it from 2006 to 2009 and never had a problem? Doesnt matter now i guess!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Latest update in this ongoing saga;

Running Shell 95 fuel worked O.K for a while but still had the odd stutter when you least expected it.

This problem has now progressed to when first starting bike and letting motor warm up to say 40'c put bike in first gear and motor cuts out and 'FI' light comes up then goes out. When hitting start button to restart bike nothing happens except "FI" light shows up.
Need to put bike back in neutral and it starts fine and cuts out 2 or 3 more times when putting in first gear before it eventually behaves itself and stays running when putting in gear.

Would have thought the only thing that could cut motor out when putting bike in gear is if the stand is down - which it isnt.

Doing my head in!
 

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side stand switch. have you checked it out? every time someone mentions a problem of the bike cutting in and out like that, everyone suggests the side stand switch isnt functioning like its supposed to be and 9 of 10 times, theyre right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Chopped side stand switch cables this morning and bridged together.
Bike started no problems.
Took for 30 minute ride and bike ran perfectly.
I dont want to get excited too quickly buts its looking like i spent 2 years and 1K in dealer workshops only for it to be as simple as this.
Need to go on a longer ride (1 hr+) to confirm definitely but looks like its fixed.
 

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I had to rebuild my sidestand switch also, works great now.
 

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I completely removed the sidestand switch after I had bike cut out on me while leaned over in a turn at a high rate of speed. I bout shit my pants. Went home and removed that switch. No more issues in over a year.
 

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Just do a small test when you have time:
Disconnect the fuel line from the throttle bodies, get a numbered bottle or something, put the line in and just open the switch. measure how much fuel pours out, should be around 73-76ml. Way less your fuel pump is going south...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bike has been running perfectly since removing the side stand switch 2 years ago, and I haven't had a problem since.

I wonder how many other people have had this same issue.......
 

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Nice job reporting back. That rarley happens in threads like this, but is really useful for others to reference.
 
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