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Discussion Starter #1
Ok...ive searched but couldnt really find exactly what I was looking for...07 zx10..about 44000 miles on the clock...started noticing back in march/april bike getting warmer than normal in slow traffic/at idle even in cooler temps..(THEN..about 150-170 on highway..up to 190-200 at a light/slow pace) Air temp then in the 60s- 70s during the day..I figure..time for a coolant change soon..been a few years. After putting it off time and time again..and the air temps slowly rising..my water temp also starts rising..like hitting 205-214ish at a light when the air temp was only like 80ish. So i finally change out the coolant a few weeks ago..kept with the stock 50-50 premix..always have run it in my other bikes with zero overheating issues..made sure to flush the system well with distilled water before filling with coolant..made sure to get all the air bubbles out and what not. But..still having higher than normal temp readings...noticed the other day...when running down the highway at high speeds (over 130ish) my temp read 195...slowed down to about 80 and the temp slowly came down to about 175ish. At lights it slowly climbs up to 205-215ish..fan kicks on at 205..may go down to 185-190 cruising. Today..when I got home from work...i left it idle..went from 198 to 224 in a few minutes...then slowly climbed to 228. I brought the rpms up some to about 2500-3000 and in about a minute or so temps hit 235-238. How much of a PITA is it to change out the thermostat on a gen2?? I have no system leaks that I can see..one thing i did notice today when it hit 238 was the overflow bottle stayd at the full line. Ideas? Thermostat?? Radiator cap?? ?????????? :dontknow:
 

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I would start with the small stuff first. Thermostat is probably getting weak. If the radiator cap was bad and not holding pressure in the system, you be boiling the coolant at those temps. If you can't feel it bubbling in the reservoir, then I'd say your cap is fine and it's not leaking. The other thing I would do is run some cleansing flush through your system. Is like a detergent that can remove some deposits and scaling on the metal parts. It's cheap and easy and with a new thermostat, should get you back to normal. Or at least eliminate those as the culprit and you can move on to other things that could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where can I find a 'safe' cleansing solution recipe or a trustworthy otc one? Is pulling the tb off a major pain to get to the thermostat?
 

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Where can I find a 'safe' cleansing solution recipe or a trustworthy otc one? Is pulling the tb off a major pain to get to the thermostat?
Prestone makes it and you can find it at most auto parts stores.



It shouldn't be that bad to pull the TBs. the space will be tight and the air box is a PITA, but it shouldn't be too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Prestone makes it and you can find it at most auto parts stores.



It shouldn't be that bad to pull the TBs. the space will be tight and the air box is a PITA, but it shouldn't be too bad.
awesome...thanks!!! Im used to takin the air box off...lol..I know that drama! I shouldnt have to get the tb sync'd after takin em off will i??
 

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awesome...thanks!!! Im used to takin the air box off...lol..I know that drama! I shouldnt have to get the tb sync'd after takin em off will i??
Nah, I wouldn't think so. As long as you don't mess with any of air screws, I'd think you'd be fine. The TBs come off as an assembly. Just unplug the cables and move it out of the way to get to the thermostat housing.

You can test the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove if you wanna check it, but I'd probably just replace it new as they are fairly cheap and you have a lot of mileage. Probably due for a refresh there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nah, I wouldn't think so. As long as you don't mess with any of air screws, I'd think you'd be fine. The TBs come off as an assembly. Just unplug the cables and move it out of the way to get to the thermostat housing.

You can test the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove if you wanna check it, but I'd probably just replace it new as they are fairly cheap and you have a lot of mileage. Probably due for a refresh there.
cool beans...yea might as well change it out since im gonna go thru the trouble of getting to it once...sure wouldnt wanna do it again in a short time lol. reckon ill head to autozone and the stealership in a few days...get some cleanser..thermostat and more coolant lol. I best not forget the new o-ring gaskets...Hey...it says in the shop manual to apply grease to the o-ring when putting back together? What grease...regular wheel bearing grease?? :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow! $40 for a thermostat?!?!?! :spit:
 

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OHHH PICK ME MY HAND IS UP >>SMALL PIN HOLES IN RADIATOR. Had the same exact issue with my R1.
Yeah, a possibility. But I would expect if that was the case, the radiator would leak ever so slightly. That would mean a smell of coolant when hot and also more likely to boil the coolant once really hot.

To really test for leaks, you'd have to get a pressure tester. It's a small hand pump with a gauge that hooks to your radiator where the cap is. Pump it up, and watch the gauge on it. If it holds the pressure, all good. If not, you start looking for the leaks while it's under pressure. That would be the next step if the $40 thermostat doesn't fix it.
 

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I would run the system cleaner first and see if that un sticks the thermostat. Might just have buildup on the T stat man.
 

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Anybody know if they make a "fail safe " T-stat for our bikes? meaning if it fails it sticks in the OPEN position and not closed causing over heating(for those not knowing fail safe,lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would run the system cleaner first and see if that un sticks the thermostat. Might just have buildup on the T stat man.
I thought of that...but like skydork said I have a lot of miles on that t stat...might as well change it anyway. Plus...I'd rather just buy and change coolant once more instead of twice...lol.
 

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Gotcha man. I googled for a failsafe/aftermarket T-stat for our bikes and NOTHING. Also, a freaking new pump is $200!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gotcha man. I googled for a failsafe/aftermarket T-stat for our bikes and NOTHING. Also, a freaking new pump is $200!!
A fail safe t stat would be awesome lol. I'd rather she'll out the 40 for a new stat than 200 for the water pump! Lol:eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok heres an interesting tid bit of info..ordered the t-stat..got it for a steal at the dealership..lol. So..i decide today since its gonna be a few days before it arrives at the dealers...id do another check on my cooling system jus to make sure i did in fact get all the air bubbles out..sooo...i pop off the radiator cap..fire her up and let her warm up. I notice a few small bubbles come up but nothing major. I do notice my temp tho climbing to 195...198...205...(fan kicks in)...209..so i bring the rpms up some to get the water flowin...and it really starts to flow out the neck some...temps at 219/220..then...soon as the temp hit like 223/224 it started spewing coolant BAD...like a geyser...dam near burned my hand on the throttle grip. Still thinkin thermostat?? :dontknow:
 

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Not a valid test. The reason the coolant started geysering out is because you started to boil the coolant in the system. Bad move. Remember back to your high school science class. Water boils at 212F under standard atmospheric comditions and the antifreeze only raises the boiling point slightly. The cooling system works by maintaining a higher pressure which significantly raises the boiling point. Same principle as a pressure cooker in your kitchen. In fact, you can get water to boil at room temp if you lower the pressure enough with a vacuum pump. The boiling point has more to do with pressure than temperature!

By having the radiator cap off and getting the coolant hot enough to boil, you've introduced air into the system now and not really proven anything in regards to the integrity of it. Its fine to purge the air out with the cap off, but you shouldnt allow the system to get that hot.

Yes, I would still pull the thermostat and replace it and then do a flush on the system to track down your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not a valid test. The reason the coolant started geysering out is because you started to boil the coolant in the system. Bad move. Remember back to your high school science class. Water boils at 212F under standard atmospheric comditions and the antifreeze only raises the boiling point slightly. The cooling system works by maintaining a higher pressure which significantly raises the boiling point. Same principle as a pressure cooker in your kitchen. In fact, you can get water to boil at room temp if you lower the pressure enough with a vacuum pump. The boiling point has more to do with pressure than temperature!

By having the radiator cap off and getting the coolant hot enough to boil, you've introduced air into the system now and not really proven anything in regards to the integrity of it. Its fine to purge the air out with the cap off, but you shouldnt allow the system to get that hot.

Yes, I would still pull the thermostat and replace it and then do a flush on the system to track down your problem.
Only reason i found it odd was after i changed the coolant a few weeks ago..i ran it the same way to purge the system..but dont remember the temp climbing above 214ish then and never did it boil over. I guess I was thinking that it boiled over...maybe the thermostat isnt opening like it should...hence the spewage...lol. I got the stuff you showed me to flush the system...gonna do that before I change out the t-stat next weekend. Or would it be better to flush it first....then change the t-stat?
 

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You can use the flush stuff now and try it. It may free up something on the existing t-stat and get you back in business. Don't know if it will or not. Remember, this is an iterative process to try and eliminate the simple stuff first. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You can use the flush stuff now and try it. It may free up something on the existing t-stat and get you back in business. Don't know if it will or not. Remember, this is an iterative process to try and eliminate the simple stuff first. :wink:
I was just gonna flush it at the same time i change the t-stat. Dont need to be paying for coolant twice since im changing it out anyway. Bike is running and everything...just when I stop for a light or slow slow traffic at idle...the temp climbs up higher than it normally does. I just didnt want to change the t-stat first..THEN flush it and possibly get crud stuck in the new t-stat and be back at square one...lol
 
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