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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This isnt related to my 10R - its my wifes R6....

but, she has a lowering link such as this on her bike. And her bike is wayy too low.

The link is currently bolted on through the red hole.

If I bolt the link on through the black hole, will this RAISE or LOWER it?


I have zero experience with lowering kits, but I would assume that it would be raised.

Also, any tips for doing this?
Im assuming Im going to need a 2nd person to help hold the tail of the bike up as I unbolt the current position and bolt to the new position...


THANKS!

:beer:
 

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I believe that you are right and it would raise it. Unfortunatly not 100% sure.
 

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I'll look on the R6 at the shop tonight or tomorrow, but if it's like everything else, it will raise it.

You'll have to get a jack stand to put under where the shock is mounted. Get the right size wrench, and an air gun with the correct size socket. Lift the jack to take the pressure off the shock, but don't over lift it. Just enough to get the weight off. Un-bolt the lower mount, and make VERY minor adjustments to get the weight off the link, so you can easily remove the bolt. Lift it up so it is aligned with the next hole, and push the bolt back through. Put your nut back on, and tighten well with the air gun. Make sure you have a good enough jack, cause the bike will be off the suspension temporarily, and fully on the jack. You can do this whole process while the bike is sitting on the kick stand as well.
 

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i used a ratchet strap thew the rafters of the garage and then under the tail to hold it up. it was pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
TheBoss10R said:
You'll have to get a jack stand to put under where the shock is mounted.
I want to make sure I understand what you mean.

The shock rest on the link. Put the jack under the link towards the rear tire thus pressure will still be applied so the front of the link will have slight pressure on it?

I no have a air gun...:sad: the torque spec and be tougher than my breaker bar!! ( if it will fit :crackup: )

thanks for the help!
 

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i just supported the ten with the straps and unbolted the lowering links and switched them out.i did the same to my buddies busa.i didnt use a jack. if your a little worried just grab a 12 pack of your favorite beer. chug down and then you will be ready.:lol:
 

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Rock_Star said:
I want to make sure I understand what you mean.

The shock rest on the link. Put the jack under the link towards the rear tire thus pressure will still be applied so the front of the link will have slight pressure on it?

I no have a air gun...:sad: the torque spec and be tougher than my breaker bar!! ( if it will fit :crackup: )

thanks for the help!
I'd have to see exactly how the R6 to be perfectly clear, on where to put the jack. That link you have pictured looks like one for the 600RR's and 1000RR type suspension. I haven't lowered one of those yet, so I can't be totally sure on how it's done. But how I explained it is how we do it on others. Like I said, I will have to see what it looks like on the R6 at the shop. I'll prolly take some pics of it too if I can use them to explain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
no need for pics... thanks for all ya'lls help!

I will try it tonight when I get home from work. I just wanted to make sure that moving the bolt point would raise the bike.

Im assuming it will be about a 1 to 1.5 inch raise?

12 pack of beer - already got more than that in the fridge!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
OK, so I went to move the bolt tonight and raise it up...

I got the bike propped up, and then I removed the bolt. It was cake!

Except for the lowering link wouldnt come off. there seems to be some type of bushing inside of the bracket. See the red arrow in pic 1.

I slightly banged on the lowering link thinking its a tight fit - but no budge.

I removed my bikes straps from the cieling and the bushing support the entire bike.


Am I missing something to remove the link from its current position???

I believe that I "jacked it up" enough to take the pressure off and I think that the bushing is whats keeping it on there.... THANKS!
 

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This is how to lower the bike using the dogbone on this website: http://www.tobefast.com/r6.htm


First, you need to take the weight off of the swingarm. I did this by putting a broomstick with something wrapped around it (so it doesn't scratch) under the seat so that it is pushing up on the battery box. Then I rested the stick on two chairs on opposite sides of the bike.


Now with the rear tire off of the ground, there is no pressure on the rear spring, so you can take the old dogbone out. If you don't know what the dogbone is, maybe you shouldn't try this. When you take the dogbone out, the tire and swingarm will go to the gound (it is still hooked up to the frame though).


After you have the dogbone out, you are going to have to put the bearings that are in it into the new lowering link. You can do this safely, and easily if you have a vise.


Using two sockets, position the dogbone in the vise so that there is a socket that is bigger than the bearing on one side of the bearing to be removed, and a socket that is ever so slightly smaller than the bearing on the other side of the bearing.


With the dogbone and sockets in the vise, start cranking down on it, and the smaller socket will push the bearing out of the dogbone, and into the bigger socket. Do this to both bearings. These are needle bearings, so don't drop them, or you are screwed.


When you have both bearings out, you can install them into the new lowering link. Use a little bit of grease in the new one, so that the bearings will slide in easier.

Using the top of the vise, you can lightly tap the bearings in with a hammer (LIGHTLY!!), then you can press them into place using the same method as taking them out.


It should be noted that when you install it on the bike, the nuts on the lowering link have to be toward the rear of the bike. Put the forward end on first, slide the mounting bolt through, but don't tighten yet.


Then lift the tire and swingarm up until you can slide the bolt through the rear of the link. Now you can tighten both bolts down to specs. (I don't have the specs, I just tightened it down enough to be sure that it wasn't going to come back off, probably around 80ft. pounds, or so.)


Then you can dop the bike down from its perch, and sit on it, and make adjustments to the link as needed to obtain the ride height you want. After you have it where you want it, tighten both nuts down. I highly recommend using lock-tight, as engine vibrations tend to make things come undone.


You REALLY should lower the front, too,. To do this, you just loosen all the triple tree-to-fork bolts, and slide the forks evenly up the tree. A little goes a long way in this dept. I lowerd mine 1 1/2". (Be sure to support the front of the bike, not the front tire, before loosening it all up).


People say that lowering a bike screws up the bike's suspension, and makes it handle like crap. This is not true if you do it right. If the front and rear are lowered evenly, the bike will handle just like it was designed, if not better.

Now that I have lowered mine, it handles better than it did stock in the turns. The center of gravity is lower, and you can really get down in the turns with confidence.


One more thing I should mention is that after you lower it, the stock height of the kickstand isn't going to work anymore. You can either cut it in the middle somewhere, and weld it back together, or you can blow $160 on an adjustable kick stand (rip-off). I cut an inch out of mine.
Good luck, and if there are anymore questions, or if you want me to clarify something, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the http://www.tobefast.com/r6.htm link no workie...

OK, i will pound on it some more... Im guessing that whoever installed the dogbone did not put any lube on so maybe they stuck together????

I already lowered the front about 1.25 inches.
The kick stand has already been modded...

I will let you know how it goes....
Thx
 

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eric said:
One more thing I should mention is that after you lower it, the stock height of the kickstand isn't going to work anymore. You can either cut it in the middle somewhere, and weld it back together, or you can blow $160 on an adjustable kick stand (rip-off). I cut an inch out of mine.
I'm using the adjustable side stand available from www.SpencerCycle.com. It uses the stock mounting bolt, spring, and safety switch hardware: $110 plus $11 bucks shipping.

I'm also using the adjustable lowering links available from Spencer Cycle.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #16
eric said:
looks like you can pound it in and then it will come out. hope this helps.
nope its a steel collar that has siezed up inside the mount. I tried breaking it loose last night but had no luck. Im going to put some heat on it and it should slide right out.
 

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Rock_Star said:
nope its a steel collar that has siezed up inside the mount. I tried breaking it loose last night but had no luck. Im going to put some heat on it and it should slide right out.
Looks like you're getting it worked out. It is different from what I'm used to, but the same concept of idea. With all this work you have to do, glad you hung the rear end instead of using the jack like I said, lol.

You should be able to get some heat to it, and have it slide right out. Keep us informed.
 
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