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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Posted for zrxhooligan

How to start synchronizing the throttle bodies.

This is a fairly easy one man job. The problem is knowing what and were to adjust to get the job done quickly. The photos in the manual SUCK, that’s way I started this post! But the procedure in manual should be followed for all adjustments! Read the manuals procedures a couple of time to get a good feel for what you’re doing before you start!

First, start by removing most of the fuel, leaving enough to run the bike for a short period of time. (This also keeps the tank easy to handle and secure) I also disconnected the tank and removed it to access the air box easier.

Second, remove the air box to expose the throttle body intakes.

Third, locate the 4 bypass screws just under the fuel rail (injectors), these little shits are a PIA to get to! You’ll need to find a couple of blade screw drivers to access the adjusters, one short and one just a bit longer then your short one. I would recommend taking the time to figuring out how you are going to get to these before you start up the bike. Even practicing how you are going to hold the screw drivers at each location. That way you won’t get frustrated midway through the project and giveup.







Forth, locate the vacuum ports for the synchronizer (in my case a motion pro stick synchronizer) Remove the rubber caps from the ports and hook up the syncs rubber tubes to there corresponding throttle bodies (i.e. 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on) I found that a long needle nosed pliers worked awesome for this.



Fifth, hook the fuel tank back up (wiring and fuel lines) but positioning the tank backwards on the bike. (It would be a good idea to place some cardboard on the bikes tail section to keep things from getting damaged) and strap the tank some how to keep it from falling. You probably could leave the tank hinged at the back, but this might make it hard to access the adjusters on the throttle bodies.

Now for the adjustments! I could probably go into further detail on how to adjust everything but you would be better suited to read the owners manual to get the blow by blow.

Print off the pages from in the Periodic Maintenance section of the Owners manual that it starts in section 2 page 35 to page 38 to get the final adjustments procedure.

A quick 101, (this should not be followed verbatim but it’s more for “so that’s how it kinda works) The goal is to have the highest two vacuums between the left 2 throttle bodies (1 and 2) and right 2 throttle bodies (3and 4) be the same and be with in the service limits…… Essentially you want all 4 throttle valves to be the same

With the idle adjusted properly, You’ll start by adjusting the lowest vacuum of the left (#1 and #2) throttle bodies to the highest vacuum of the left (#1 and #2) throttle bodies then do the same for the right (#3and#4) throttle bodies (adjusting the idle back up or down as needed) Be sure to make small adjustment and Blip the throttle after each adjustment you make.
It really is pretty easy!
 

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How offten should this be performed?
 

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Every time you dump it.
I would believe once you set them you wouldn't have to touch them for quite sometime.
 

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I don't think they spend alot of time syncing them at the factory. My idle was smoother after I did mine at about 3,000 miles.

One thing that was suggested earlier and that I encountered . . . probably a good idea to back all the screws out 1/2 turn before attempting to balance them. Also the initial balance between left and right is with the center adjusting screw on the throttle shaft just like carbs.
 

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I ahve heard they are not very close from the factory either. I may need to either go and buy a motion pro sync set or borrow one of my friends again and do mine.
 

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All three of my latest bikes (954 & 2 10Rs) were quite a bit out of adjustment from the factory. This is now something I check when I get a new bike, based on the experience. Haven't adjusted my current 10R, as it wasn't WAY out. But will be done over what we call winter in SoCal.
 

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bluebyyouz said:
Since my engine was out I figured I would take a couple shots of the air screws. I am trying to be a active member since all I do is read learn and ask questions.
So the 10 doesn't use a conventional screw type adjuster that hooks into the throttle linkages?? It uses some type of air bleed screw?
 

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The throttle bodies are cast in pairs. There is only one convention adjuster between #2 and #3. After you balance the high reading of #1 and #2 to the high reading of #3 and #4 you balance the two low cylinders using the balance screws. If I remember correctly you close the screw to increase the reading. Most of the screw come fully seated which is why it pays to open them all 1/2 turn before you start. I didn't learn this until after I messed with it for a while.
 

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So is it a fairly simple procedure as far as the adjusting goes or is it difficult and very time comsuming. and what exectly are you gaining by it. Is it just Idle or is it more than that.
 

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It mainly smoothes out the very small throttle opening response. Bare in mind that in older bikes it would go out considerably over time and was probably more important than it is today with modern manufacturing and increasing servicing times.

It should give you a nice smooth idle and a smooth progression from on/off the throttle at small openings. Obviously at larger throttle openings, a few thou difference in the throttle bodies isn't going to make a difference, at idle however it does.
 

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The procedure is fairly simple. The battle lies in trying to find a way to get at the balance screws. I ended up using a flexible 1/4 drive with a screw driver bit.
 

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The most accurate *should* be guages if you had a nice guage and could reset the zero etc. Often it seems that after some time the guages read out and they end up stuffing up.

Best bet is just to stick with the mecury guages as you know they'll always read what's there. They're just so simple. The actual vacuum reading itself isn't always *that* important, it's more that each one is the same.
 

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CanyonCarver said:
Love that sync...looks sturdy and rather use the mercury guage. Anyone know if an American Company makes the same and I don't mean the MotionPro long ass tube type. :dontknow:
 

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I have the Motion Pro mercury-tube ones also. But I bought the CarbtuneII a couple years ago. Waaaaaay better. Much easier and less sketchy to use without the mercury. And you can't suck the mercury back into the engine at high vacuum if it isn't there. :wink:
 
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