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Hillbillie Mod
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damn,....200 degrees...hmmm...

gotta say my 10r is the first bike i actually warm up...not all the way to 200 but i get your thought on posting this...

warm'em up boys!!...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
latdrop said:
damn,....200 degrees...hmmm...

gotta say my 10r is the first bike i actually warm up...not all the way to 200 but i get your thought on posting this...

warm'em up boys!!...
I think it was referring to when you first get the bike...

I could be wrong...but I thought it was like a break in type deal...

I posted on there to see exactly which theyre talking about...
 

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hillcountry10r said:
I think it was referring to when you first get the bike...

I could be wrong...but I thought it was like a break in type deal...

I posted on there to see exactly which theyre talking about...
oh...got it...
 

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This will prove to be an interesting debate especially since Gixxers have quite the following.

I don't think it is a matter of tight tolerances rather it is a problem of inadequate oil circulation. When the motor is cold, the tolerances are at their greatest. When the motor warms, piston rings expand and provide better sealing in their bores, and valve clearances are reduced. Tighter "cold" tolerances and poor lubrication is definitely a recipe for disaster, but I am wondering why the magical 200 degree mark. It only takes a minute or two for proper oil circulation to occur.
 

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I'm pretty sure they are talking about every time you ride the bike to properly warm them up, not just in break in. When first starting a cold engine the first thing to heat up is the pistons. This causes temporarily tight piston to cyl. clearances. That is why a warmup is good because it allows all the components to equalize in temp. :thumbsup:
 

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PeteyP said:
I'm pretty sure they are talking about every time you ride the bike to properly warm them up, not just in break in. When first starting a cold engine the first thing to heat up is the pistons. This causes temporarily tight piston to cyl. clearances. That is why a warmup is good because it allows all the components to equalize in temp. :thumbsup:
That makes absolutely no sense to me. Metal expands when it warms. That means, as Rspec said the tolerances are the loosest when the engine is cold. If the piston is warm and the cylinder is still cold the tolerances should be looser than if both were hot. Waiting for temps to equalize as you stated would mean tighter tolerances between the hard parts, but as Rspec said, better oil flow. I think you're off on your metal temp theory here. :wink:
 

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Fwiw, whether I'm breakin' in a new bike from the dealership on the way home, or leavin' out to ride to the store I always crank the bike and let it reach operating temp before I roll. I usually let it idle while I lock up the house and put on my gear. By then it's good to go. I do this for oil warming and optimum oil flow and lubrication though. Has nothing to do with metal expansion or clearances. I think some folks are puttin' way too much thought into this. :mrgreen:
 

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El Diablo said:
Fwiw, whether I'm breakin' in a new bike from the dealership on the way home, or leavin' out to ride to the store I always crank the bike and let it reach operating temp before I roll. I usually let it idle while I lock up the house and put on my gear. By then it's good to go. I do this for oil warming and optimum oil flow and lubrication though. Has nothing to do with metal expansion or clearances. I think some folks are puttin' way too much thought into this. :mrgreen:
:+1:
 

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MY exact thought, cause under normal physics metal expands when it warms up and tolerances tighten up not loosen, but they dont expand enough to worry about locking up a motor.
 

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When a cylinder heats up, does the bore get larger or smaller? No doubt that a piston will grow. I think the common thinking is that the cylinder bore gets larger as it heats up. If that is the case, and you have a piston warming up in a cylinder that is still surrounded by cold coolant so that it can't get as warm as fast. Then the clearances are now at their minimum. It is a good idea to warm them up every time, not just when it is new. I know that Attack Kawasaki recommended warming up the SuperStock bike to at least 70 degrees C. Which is about 160 F.
 

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El Diablo said:
Fwiw, whether I'm breakin' in a new bike from the dealership on the way home, or leavin' out to ride to the store I always crank the bike and let it reach operating temp before I roll. I usually let it idle while I lock up the house and put on my gear. By then it's good to go. I do this for oil warming and optimum oil flow and lubrication though. Has nothing to do with metal expansion or clearances. I think some folks are puttin' way too much thought into this. :mrgreen:
:+1:

I do the same thing. Fire up the bike, roll it out of the garage, close the garage door, and then put my gear on. My 10 is usually at about 120 by then. Put along my in my sub-division--20 mph speed limit. A minute or so later, let 'er rip. :mrgreen:


Chris
 

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All metals do not expand at the same rate.Zeta Ray is on the money here. I ran into the same thing with my boat motors.Water is not heating up as fast as the piston.Wich means neither are the cylinder walls.You should never hit a motor hard when its cold.
Clearances are getting tighter on all motors...We use thinner and thinner oils in our vehicles.
 

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I am of the opinion that idling is bad. I start the bike and drive off. I keep the rpm below 3,000 until the coolant temp comes up to around 150. I keep it below 4,000 for the first five miles.
 

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Idling is one of the hardest things on a motor besides starting it...Lack of oil.The cams take the hardest beating on an iding motor...At least on the older motors.I havent spent much time..well any actually of the newer stuff out..The cams/valve trany usually get most of theyre oil from the oil slinging around.
 

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The first thing a mechanic will tell you to do with a bike is always let it run for at least 2 minutes before taking off.. this allows enough oil to be thrown around and get things lubed up before riding. Also never mash on the RPM's till up to temp, it gets expensive and with todays data tracking units that are in most bikes, if a dealer takes in a seized bike and the data unit shows 100 degrees and 13k rpm's 3 seconds before it blew they're going to laugh at the word warrentee
 

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I still say some of you fuggers are puttin' too much thought into the metal expansion thing and clearances. :headshake These motors ain't designed so tightly that a proper warm up is required to achieve proper clearances. No way... Warm the oil and give it hell. :heyyou:
 
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