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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have almost 2k on my bike now and still have issues with the suspension.. In a fast pace curve(100mph+) the front and rear wallow like a teeter totter. Any suggestions for setting it up.. I used the settup off of sportriders site and set the sag at 27mm in the front and 20mm in the rear....I weight 145ish.. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I really need to get out of the house
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I'm no suspension guru. But I've always heard your sag for the track should be 25 to 30mm. For the street 30 to 35mm. But that shouldn't make it wallow.
Perhaps it's too soft. Have you turned it in any.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think the wheels are lined up but I know the marks are off on the swingarm, I used a laser to line them but might try something different for that.
 

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livnpaintball said:
Ok, I have almost 2k on my bike now and still have issues with the suspension.. In a fast pace curve(100mph+) the front and rear wallow like a teeter totter. Any suggestions for setting it up.. I used the settup off of sportriders site and set the sag at 27mm in the front and 20mm in the rear....I weight 145ish.. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK, i'll do what i can:smile:

Your rider sag is the #1 concern. Why?? the bike does not ride itself.

rider sag = you+full gear sitting on the bike in position and a buddy or two lending a hand for balance and the other to take measurements.

With that said tell me how you went about getting 20 & 27mm respectively of sag in the front or rear! is it rider/laden sag? static sag? (bike only with both wheels on level ground), 'free sag'? (bike elevated off the ground with suspension fully entended) what??

What i can tell you is both figures are incorrect for this bike (and for that matter many bikes)
rider/laden sag of the front forks for street / track riding ranges between 33-35mm for the 10 (some bikes are a little less but suffice to say this is a reputable range) to aid in keeping the front tire in contact with the pavement when the forks extend under acceleration which will reduce the highly touted 'nervousness & headshake'.
With 20mm of rear sag the suspension isn't in and cannot get into its proper range to function. Now whats going to happen when you reduce the preload in order to get some decent rider sag #'s for the rear (which BTW is 26-30mm) is a loss of usable travel, and way too much static sag putting it yet again out of the normal range. (a solid range for static sag is 6-8mm)

BD
 

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The wallowing could easily be caused by a host of improper settings or perhaps a single one but as i mentioned above the rider sag is of the utmost importance before any other knobs & screws are turned. Once thats been addressed then start out by setting the rebound & comp on both ends of the bike in the middle of the range, i.e. if you have 12 clicks available then set @ 6 clicks out ( and O BTW always set the adjustments out from full hard which is all the way clockwise)

BD
 

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Big Daddy said:
The wallowing could easily be caused by a host of improper settings or perhaps a single one but as i mentioned above the rider sag is of the utmost importance before any other knobs & screws are turned. Once thats been addressed then start out by setting the rebound & comp on both ends of the bike in the middle of the range, i.e. if you have 12 clicks available then set @ 6 clicks out ( and O BTW always set the adjustments out from full hard which is all the way clockwise)

BD
Preach on brother...
 

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You made the set up to soft.1 line up on the fork and 4 turns out on the rear.PS:stock Dunlop do suck on my opinion.Get something else but not Dunlop.
 

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I had the same problem in the rear. Too much preload. With your current rear sag your bike will track better with a passenger onboard. My rear sag stock was only 15mm in squid gear. When we took out the preload it was at 29mm. I wanted more, but the spring is too stiff. We also back off the rear comp a 1/4 click softer from stock. I'm no longer getting bucked out of the seat on bumpy roads. Tracks way better, and my lazy ass still haven't dialed it in yet. Like BD said, fix your sag then tune your comp to zero it into a personal comfort zone. I feel rebound can only be dialed in good on the track. Rebound will help dial in the rate of geometry change coming out of corners. If you rebound too fast coming out mid corner, the rate of change may spook you. That depends on your riding style. I like my rebound to be slow so the bikes geometry doesn't change fast after hitting the apex. I like a consistent feel through the corner. But, you don't want the rebound to be too slow. You want your bike to be at riders sag by time you're upright in a straight line. Your bike is fastest, and the most stable at riders sag.
 

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grunty-motor said:
I'm running 35/25 sag and found the rear wallow was cured by adding some rebound - never had any probs with the front though.
Grunty

25mm rear rider sag would be the least amount one would want so your within the usable range but be careful with adding rebound as you don't want it 'packing down' after hitting a few successive bumps/dips and creating a situation where you loose travel, hence fall on head. :wink:

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 20mm I have in the rear for sag is with me on the bike and the preload all the way out.. I need a new spring, the stock is too stiff as mentioned by SP8. I set the suspension up by using the tech article in sportrider magazine so if the numbers are wrong so is sportrider. I really don't want to buy a new rear spring but if I have to then I will. Where would be a good place to buy a rear spring? Race Tech maybe?
 

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sportrider is not necessarily wrong nor are you but each riders weight, riding style will effect setup as will a particular track surface, i.e. baby butt smooth or rough & bumpy.

Racetech or http://www.traxxion.com/ can supply the spring but you will need to ship it to them or have a local shop do the install.

BD
 

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I can't wait to get my 10 dailed in. I only have ~350 miles on mine and normally do not even begin playing until 1000miles. I need to learn the bike stock before I fiddle. Being a lite weight at 153 w/o gear I hope I can do something with the shock. After the 636 (03) I know what a crappy shock feels like. The 10 feels a ton better and the compression feels like it can be worked with.

Grunty,

Like BD said, if you slow down that rebound you better offset it with compression or you will pack down. Then you add compression and make the bike harsh...there is a very thin line!

BD,
I too was thinking 35/25 to place more weight on the front end to aid in the steering. Would you recommend me going 30mm and raising the fork tubes? I think I read a post by you that said dont raise the tubes, but that might have been if using 180 rear tire.

All I can say is this bike is a rocket, but you can REALLY tell it handles slower than the 636. I'm hoping wave rotors and ride height will nullify the differences. I had a rear wave rotor and Ti rotor bolts, taken off the 636, and added them to the 10 and they DID make a substantial difference in the handling; but could have been the bike is settling in more and the tires are coming in.
 

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what can i say - I was running rebound at 2 turns out and all was fine up till 80/100. Turned the screw in 1/2 turn and things were OK till 120ish. Another 1/2 turn seems to have things ok - I read it at http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_susp_trouble/

  • LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
  • The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners.
  • This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tire starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control.
  • There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action.
Seems to have worked for me.

The other thing I have started to notice is that the D218 seemed to like softer suspension and the Corsa's can take a bit more of a stiffer set up.
 

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BNninja said:
I can't wait to get my 10 dailed in. I only have ~350 miles on mine and normally do not even begin playing until 1000miles. I need to learn the bike stock before I fiddle. Being a lite weight at 153 w/o gear I hope I can do something with the shock. After the 636 (03) I know what a crappy shock feels like. The 10 feels a ton better and the compression feels like it can be worked with.

BD,
I too was thinking 35/25 to place more weight on the front end to aid in the steering. Would you recommend me going 30mm and raising the fork tubes? I think I read a post by you that said dont raise the tubes, but that might have been if using 180 rear tire.
BNinja,

Its very easy to over adjust this bike so go small, very small.:smile:

The reason i've mentioned not raising the tubes is the bike is front end biased as is and using a 180 will raise the rear ever so slightly (2-3mm) which is enough to start, otherwise it becomes overly front end biased especially under heavy braking which creates an unstable feel & reaction from the bike because the front axle gets buried under the steering stem, hence unstable. I would not recommend 30mm as its not enough but if your inclined to experiment go for it as it may be your 'E' ticket.
I've actually lowered my tubes flush with the top triple, (-3mm) removed the 3mm top shock shim, and installed a Penske thats 5mm longer than the OEM shock therefore i'm still +2mm at the rear not counting the 2-3mm from the 180/55 which gives me a +4-5mm total. My wheelbase has been increased some 19mm for added stability as well so if i'm inclined to raise my tubes 3mm when i go back to a 190/50 it'll be just dandy :thumbsup:

BD
 

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Shim removal

It may be in another thread but, is it hard to remove the shock shim? I am considering this but dont konw where it is or how to do it.
 

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Its a bit time consuming but aside from that its pretty straight forward. Its located just above the top shock mounting brkt, i call it a shim but perhaps a washer would be more like it but you can't miss it. The tank must be loosened and moved outta the way, the seat removed and of course the shock and assoc linkage removed to gain access to it.


BD
 

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livnpaintball said:
Ok, I have almost 2k on my bike now and still have issues with the suspension.. In a fast pace curve(100mph+) the front and rear wallow like a teeter totter. Any suggestions for setting it up.. I used the settup off of sportriders site and set the sag at 27mm in the front and 20mm in the rear....I weight 145ish.. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ZX-10R ('04) 6/04, 10/04 2 lines showing 9 clicks out 7 clicks out 22mm thread showing 1.75 turns out 5.5 turns out note:set fork tube height to 3mm showing above triple clamp
 
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