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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I know there are lots of topics about suspension settings and such, but I haven't seen anything about upgrading the suspension on the 10R.

My position is this... I want to upgrade the suspension without paying an arm and a leg.

So my question is this... which route yields the biggest bang for the buck?
Reworking the front forks? New fork springs/valves? Race Tech? Traxxion Dynamics? Ohlins? Penske? Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also, is there anyway around purchasing a whole new (~$900) rear shock, or is that even that essential?

Of course, I would love to just buy Ohlins all around, but the $3,000 for R&T forks and rear shock doesn't leave me much to spend on other performance parts....
 

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you i love these topics because you get the guys that swear putting the ohlins on there make is a god's send.
well that is so untrue. the quality of the factory suspension parts on this bike are awsome. if you disagree i dont care. but what i will say, is just go have the bike setup for your type of riding, wieght, ECT. goto Race Tech or another company of this sort if you dont like Race Tech. you can get the whole thing done for around $900 or less depending on who you know. they setup the bike the right way, for your type of riding. spring rate, valving, Ect.

if you are a pro i am not talking to you, go put your Ohlins on, do what you wish. but for like dnwhoop02 (dont know how good you are) who just wants to get his bike dialed in, and not break the bank. just goto a company like Race Tech and let them do what they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well, that's exactly what I'm asking here..... if it's worth it to spend the big bucks on Ohlins and the like, or just work with the stock suspension...
 

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dnwhoop02 said:
well, that's exactly what I'm asking here..... if it's worth it to spend the big bucks on Ohlins and the like, or just work with the stock suspension...
ya i personlly, will work with the stock setup, its very good, just needs some tweaking.
 

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Say what you think.

I did get my front forks rebuilt for my weight, and new Penske rear shock built for my weight, and it is truly a night and day difference. I had the stock stuff set up right, and having the new stuff makes a world of difference.

If you have the money for it do it. I spent my money on that rather than the new exhaust, yada yada. I did my own pipe of which I will have pics and sound bites of later on and graphs. I get a free PC3, so I just have to wait till it gets here next week and give you all the results of the dyno.

But yes, I love the penske and it feels great!

You will notice a difference from stock!
 

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This is not a good straight up comparison. But this is my observation. I have an Ohlins rear shock on an R1. When I got it dialed in, the bike felt much better than it did with the stock shock. It actually made it feel like the swing arm was stiffer. Over all, I thought it was much better.

The stock shock and forks on the 10 feel excellent to me. A couple of weekends ago, I had the opportunity to jump back and forth between the R1 and the ZX10. The ZX10 with the stock shock felt better than the R1 with the Ohlins. Can the stock ZX10 components be improved? I am sure they can. But at this time, I going spend my money on tires and track days and I will ride on the stock suspension for a while longer.
 

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I would agree the OEM suspension is suitable! but only to a point/degree that it either doesn't have the proper spring/s for said riders weight OR for an aggressive rider requiring something a bit more upscale, i.e. Ohlins, Penske, Elka, Fox etc. Its become blatantly clear the OEM shock is overly sprung & valved for the largest % of riders! so can it be revalved or have a suitable spring installed?? thats a deffinate possibility just as the forks can be modded to suit. And then we have the list of aftermarket shocks that are undoubtedly superior to the OEM unit readily availble for us common folk to choose from.
Please don't misinterpret my comments as the aftermarket products being the end all or be all to ones suspension woes because we know their not but it certainly gives one a far better starting point from which to adjust/suit to ones liking.

BD
 

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I am not really a track addict but still, even road riding I think the rear shock is to harsh. And why should it be a bad thing to spend money on a decent rear shock? Loads and loads of people over here spend a fortune on replacement exhausts and PCIII's. Personally I think the best upgrade on the 10R after a decent steering damper and some braided brake lines is a replacement rear shock. But that's just my opinion....blabla :cool:
 

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Spend the money on an aftermarket shock. Doesn't matter which one: Ohlins, Penske or WP are all good. I personally prefer Ohlins. I don't believe you will get your stock shock modded to even compare.

Send the forks to Dan Kyle. For somewhere typically in the range of $400 - $600 you will have a much nicer set of forks that are setup properly for your riding weight, experience and style.

With this setup, you will be in for $1,200 - $1,500. Half the price if you were to go full Ohlins, and damn near as good.

JMO, of course.
 

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Dan Kyle had a RC51 workshop at his shop not to long ago. He said to all the people that attended, the Ohlins internal fork kit for the stock forks are just about as good as the $3000+ Ohlins R/T fork tubes. I would like to just replace my rear spring on the shock if possible. Depending on the cost that's what I may do. But knowing me, I'll get a Ohlins rear with my tax return, and have DK put Ohlins inside my forks. :D
 

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It depends on rider weight also... I FINALLY set the proper sag this weekend for a track day and I cannot get the rear set close at all... I weigh about 255 with full gear and it is impossible to get the sag right... I need a stronger rear spring to allow me further range of motion. We had to crank down the rear spring to get "close" to the proper range, but it limited my actual suspension to the point of a tad bit of pogo affect...

The front is not bad at all however. We got it right on the money as far as text book sag should be. I ran very fast at the track and with a rear shock of proper range, I could have been a bit faster.

The 10R was AWESOME at MAM in Iowa... I am very happy with it's track charastics, however, the rear shock and the brake feel... Well they suck.

Has anyone worked out the shitty lever feel for the front brake??? I put on the Galfer race lines and bled the lines many times over the past coupkle months... STILL the lever feels soft.... I am hoping a brembo master cylinder will aleviate the problem... ANYone?
 

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[/quote]Has anyone worked out the shitty lever feel for the front brake??? I put on the Galfer race lines and bled the lines many times over the past coupkle months... STILL the lever feels soft.... I am hoping a brembo master cylinder will aleviate the problem... ANYone?[/quote]

i have Galfer lines and EBC HH pads on mine, i have not had and brake fade,soft lever action. i am about 180 though, so that might be helping not to sure,
 

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trackaddict said:
It depends on rider weight also... I FINALLY set the proper sag this weekend for a track day and I cannot get the rear set close at all... I weigh about 255 with full gear and it is impossible to get the sag right... I need a stronger rear spring to allow me further range of motion. We had to crank down the rear spring to get "close" to the proper range, but it limited my actual suspension to the point of a tad bit of pogo affect...

The front is not bad at all however. We got it right on the money as far as text book sag should be. I ran very fast at the track and with a rear shock of proper range, I could have been a bit faster.

The 10R was AWESOME at MAM in Iowa... I am very happy with it's track charastics, however, the rear shock and the brake feel... Well they suck.

Has anyone worked out the shitty lever feel for the front brake??? I put on the Galfer race lines and bled the lines many times over the past coupkle months... STILL the lever feels soft.... I am hoping a brembo master cylinder will aleviate the problem... ANYone?
You need to take the caliper off the fork leg and shake the caliper with the bleeder loose. I garantee you will get air. The proper way to bleed any caliper like that it to take it loose. Think about the air in the caliper on the left side(since your bike leens that way and the bleeder is at the low point of the caliper, all types of air in the left top.

I put a brembo on mine to
 
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