[grunty-motor]

04 10r with 20mm Ktech internals and thinking where to go next - the set up has been in for 2seasons.

1. simple rebuild with fresh oil
2. upgrade to 25mm
3. fit forks of another bike???

also trying to decide whether to sell up and get a 08/09 zx6/10 or R6. (a 25mm upgrade and penske/ohlins rear will be near £2k i guess).

I am gonna speak to the shop who did my work the last time - would just like to hear from some of you guys that have actually been where i am.

 

[grunty-motor]

wish i had found this before i posted......http://zx-10r.net/forum/showpost.php?p=218849&postcount=15

guess my options are re-build or a new 600.

 

[edouble]

Why do you think that upgrading/changing you internals will make a differences in your track times? Is there a problem? How is the rear suspension set up?

Debating on buying a 600 or altering the fork internals in your 10r is a huge difference.

Fresh fork oil is the cheapest!

 

[Rspec99]

Depends on your generation of ZX10R, but if it's an earlier generation, swapping the forks with a Gen 3 may be a worthwhile modification. They are longer in length so you will have to drop them in the triples if it's an earlier generation. The damping performance is very good on the stock forks, and depending on your weight the stock spring is pretty stiff (good if you're 200lbs+ imho).

I've installed 25mm Bitubo cartridges in my Gen 3 and absolutely love them. The feel of the forks is just about the best I've ever felt (compared to other worked on forks, and Ohlins R&T's superbike). The biggest difference for me is just how much feedback the front end provides and adjustments make a noticeable difference. The stock cartridges just don't allow for such a wide range of adjustments and often going too far one way will yield undesired affect in other areas of the suspension action.

 

[RPG76]

wish i had found this before i posted......http://zx-10r.net/forum/showpost.php?p=218849&postcount=15

A lot of good info there!!

Two questions: 1) What are you using for a shock now?

2)Did the people that put the K-tech kit in set it up for you or did they just put in the valves and that was that?

 

[grunty-motor]

Why do you think that upgrading/changing you internals will make a differences in your track times? Is there a problem? How is the rear suspension set up?

Debating on buying a 600 or altering the fork internals in your 10r is a huge difference.

just wondering if there is any further gains to be made. also, trying to decide whether to keep the 10 (now 5years old) or whether its worth the cash to change to a newer model. then the process starts again......



no real problem - although struggling a little on the brakes from a 150 - 40mph hairpin. but feels solid elsewhere on the circuit.

the rear is standard - although resprung and revalved. i struggle to put the power down on one long fast corner. i used to be able to do it - pretty sure the shock just needs re-freshed. but why not upgrade?

that said, i am not the best at "feeling" what the bike is telling me. the best i describe is whether i am getting a "rosy" feeling. i upgrade the shock and the front forks at different times. neither time did i feel that they were any better - but both times i dropped 1 - 1.5s a lap in time - all the while feeling like i wasnt going fast. if that makes sense!

2)Did the people that put the K-tech kit in set it up for you or did they just put in the valves and that was that?

yep, fitted and spent a bit of time dialling in.

 

[grunty-motor]

ohhh..meant to say,

spoke to one suspension tuner today - he reckoned for the times i am running, that 20mm kit is more than good enough. that the 25mm does help on braking and intiial dive giving a more linear response. he said its time to move away from the stock shock and sugested a nitron 3clicker.

fyi - there is only one track near me - even that is 2hours away. and i am running about 55s compared to 49s for British Superbikes and 51s for the Superstock series. so, no where near "racer" performance and why it was suggested to stick with the 20mm's just now.

current thoughts are refresh the front + new shock on the back. maybe try and find some marchesini's or similar.

 

[Gang Green]

My 2 cents.
If you weight more than 185 lbs. and can actually rail on the track, yes, you need some modification to factory suspension.

That rear shock is sheet man. Thats the flat out truth. Ask anyone out there racing on the track. I just resprung the rear and went thru the factory shock and HAD it reshimmed too. I think 2 or 3 mm.

Should mention, all done at GP Suspension in Oregon City, OR.
Also revalved dampner at the same time. Less to worry about when it is all done right.

Front end revalved and resprung. I spent the better part of the trackday working on set up and tire pressure. Got it dialed up shortly after lunch.

Ok. I do not have times to compare. But, I can tell you that my tires will now last much longer. I was going thru a set of Super Corsas every day. Now I can get maybe 2 days out of the. 1 1/2 days for sure.

My buddies could not believe the difference since none of them could play in the corners with me anymore. Now I can turn inside them much quicker. Power still going down at the same time, but with more throttle. Braking is insane, and where I kill my friends. But there are MANY others that can brakes as well or better. It a pucker limit though for sure!

I just can't rave enough about the change. Getting it dialed in though was the must that came thru in the end. I had the factory setting dialed, but the front bottomed out under hard braking, which sends the bike into a controlable tremmor. And the rear just didn't have enough dampning and overheated fast with my harsh style. This problem just made breakfast out of the rear tire on PIR's track.

If you are into the track. This would be monies well spent when compared to other costly mods. Just make sure you have someone that really knows suspension set-up to help you make changes as you come off the track.

Best track day I ever had. Man I was fast. Haha :moped:

Oh. 2 more cents. Tire pressure on the track is everything. Ask racers or especially tire vendors. Visit the track on trackdays and talk to people. Lots of trial and error there. ccasion1