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What setup should i use for track? rear and front suspension! 175lbs driver

I think front suspension is a bit hard but just guessing
 

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There's no way for us to tell you over the Web. You're gonna have to go set the sag and play with the rebound/compression settings a bit to get the proper answer. There is no magic number.

First place to start though would be, what's your current settings? Do those settings feel good for you right now on the street? If so, why change them for the track?
 

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What SkyDork said...

However, I'm 175lbs in full gear and a suspension tuner said (for my gen3) it would be best to change front and rear springs, with stock suspension he recommended full stiffness at the rear. Front preload all the way out, and 1/4 turn back, stock rebound, and compression damping 13 clicks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What SkyDork said...

However, I'm 175lbs in full gear and a suspension tuner said (for my gen3) it would be best to change front and rear springs, with stock suspension he recommended full stiffness at the rear. Front preload all the way out, and 1/4 turn back, stock rebound, and compression damping 13 clicks out.
thx for info! :thumbsup: i will check this with a tuner
 

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What setup should i use for track? rear and front suspension! 175lbs driver

I think front suspension is a bit hard but just guessing
www.racetech.com

I changed my rear spring and I am getting the fronts installed this weekend...

Just changing the rear spring I felt like I had a new bike...

Looking forward to getting the front springs installed
 

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www.racetech.com

I changed my rear spring and I am getting the fronts installed this weekend...

Just changing the rear spring I felt like I had a new bike...

Looking forward to getting the front springs installed
which brand springs are you using, i got a ohilins rear used from a memeber here. i was told by a friend my last track day i should change both front and rear that just the rear is not going to help me to much... been looking into it but the ohlins cartridge are around 1100 i cant seem to find any cheaper alternative... is there any other reliable brand avalible
 

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which brand springs are you using, i got a ohilins rear used from a memeber here. i was told by a friend my last track day i should change both front and rear that just the rear is not going to help me to much... been looking into it but the ohlins cartridge are around 1100 i cant seem to find any cheaper alternative... is there any other reliable brand avalible
Blew my motor so I am not ridding a damb thing right now:mrgreen:

I'm using racetech springs; had the rear sag set at 35mm for street. The front I did not get resprung yet.

The gen III has a soft rear spring, so the bike sits like a chopper and squats on acceleration so the first thing would be to change the rear spring.

I got this line from another memeber; "Your ecpectations should also be realistic in upgrading the springs. If you are not ridding hard now your not going to notice anything".

For me I was ridding so hard the bike would wobble like had low air pressure or something as I went through high speed sweepers. Also the rear wheel would hop around and not stay planted if the road got rough going through turns/sweepers.

After the spring install the bike was handling like it was on rails and felt planted... I'm way faster than a lot of guys I ride with. The guys who ride faster are on the edge...

Again, change the rear spring and see how that goes first. It's very inexpensive est. $175 total with install. ($99 spring 1 hour labor) Spring and labor may have changed since I've had mine done few years ago.

Tires help a lot too. I'm running Michelin 2CT set at 36 psi front 38 psi rear.

Good luck!
 

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Blew my motor so I am not ridding a damb thing right now:mrgreen:

I'm using racetech springs; had the rear sag set at 35mm for street. The front I did not get resprung yet.

The gen III has a soft rear spring, so the bike sits like a chopper and squats on acceleration so the first thing would be to change the rear spring.

I got this line from another memeber; "Your ecpectations should also be realistic in upgrading the springs. If you are not ridding hard now your not going to notice anything".

For me I was ridding so hard the bike would wobble like had low air pressure or something as I went through high speed sweepers. Also the rear wheel would hop around and not stay planted if the road got rough going through turns/sweepers.

After the spring install the bike was handling like it was on rails and felt planted... I'm way faster than a lot of guys I ride with. The guys who ride faster are on the edge...

Again, change the rear spring and see how that goes first. It's very inexpensive est. $175 total with install. ($99 spring 1 hour labor) Spring and labor may have changed since I've had mine done few years ago.

Tires help a lot too. I'm running Michelin 2CT set at 36 psi front 38 psi rear.

Good luck!

thanx for the info bro.. im going to install that ohlins rear shock this weekend.. also order some dunlop 211 seem to be a very good tire for street/track rightnow i have a michelling Plt Pw in the front and the stock rear tire i think is bridgestone that comes frm the factory and i feel the rear hop and woble in some corners and i have the Bazzaz Fi TC not helping to much right now either for the bad tire combo or the rear spring... but we shall see, hopefully it will get better when i got it all that install.
 

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Get your sag setup and go ride the bike. Then tell us what the bike is doing good and more importantly what it is doing bad. then We can suggest adjustments on how to ure the bad.

I have worked with a couple of suspension tuners over the years and found this is the best way to work.
 

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Sorry to revive a dead thread but I got a question about the suspension settings on my 08 10r. On slow turns, it feels like the bike wants to tank slap. Now, I know the seals and stabilizer are good. I'm a thick, athletic girl, 5'6" 185lbs with full gear. I just bought the bike about 2 weeks ago from my roommate who let me borrow it once or twice before so I'm a little familiar with the ZX10r. It's got 4 lines visible at the top of the forks (that's rebound, right? Not too sure about suspension tuning). Any info on how to tune it? Thanks!
 

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Sorry to revive a dead thread but I got a question about the suspension settings on my 08 10r. On slow turns, it feels like the bike wants to tank slap. Now, I know the seals and stabilizer are good. I'm a thick, athletic girl, 5'6" 185lbs with full gear. I just bought the bike about 2 weeks ago from my roommate who let me borrow it once or twice before so I'm a little familiar with the ZX10r. It's got 4 lines visible at the top of the forks (that's rebound, right? Not too sure about suspension tuning). Any info on how to tune it? Thanks!
Define slow turns and what do you mean it feels like it wants to tank slap?

First thing, check the tires.. are the wearing correct? How much air pressure are you running. My first thing is that you're likely way too low. Nearly everyone rides with ledss pressure than they should be.
 

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Define slow turns and what do you mean it feels like it wants to tank slap?

First thing, check the tires.. are the wearing correct? How much air pressure are you running. My first thing is that you're likely way too low. Nearly everyone rides with ledss pressure than they should be.
Like I have to put down a lot of counter steering during low speed (sub 20 mph) banks
 

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Yes much what SkyDork says, eliminate the basics for road riding start with 36f 42r, check wheel swing at. & head bearings for play, check the damper is doing something tighten it right up, then go out & assess what's not happening with the suspension. The Gen3 was not the best handling but for fast everyday riding it'd as good as anything else out there. Simple servicing, change the oil front & back that can make a difference. I had a Gen3 makeover by K-Tech = new springs front & rear with RE-valving for about 600 US the difference was day & night. But eliminate the simple things first.
 

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Yes much what SkyDork says, eliminate the basics for road riding start with 36f 42r, check wheel swing at. & head bearings for play, check the damper is doing something tighten it right up, then go out & assess what's not happening with the suspension. The Gen3 was not the best handling but for fast everyday riding it'd as good as anything else out there. Simple servicing, change the oil front & back that can make a difference. I had a Gen3 makeover by K-Tech = new springs front & rear with RE-valving for about 600 US the difference was day & night. But eliminate the simple things first.
I'll do this as soon as I sort out the other stuff going on with the engine.
 

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Yes much what SkyDork says, eliminate the basics for road riding start with 36f 42r, check wheel swing at. & head bearings for play, check the damper is doing something tighten it right up, then go out & assess what's not happening with the suspension. The Gen3 was not the best handling but for fast everyday riding it'd as good as anything else out there. Simple servicing, change the oil front & back that can make a difference. I had a Gen3 makeover by K-Tech = new springs front & rear with RE-valving for about 600 US the difference was day & night. But eliminate the simple things first.
That rear tire pressure seems pretty high, even for street. What tires are you assuming she has.

Otherwise...start with the basics, and don't forget that body position and rider inputs make a tremendous difference in how a bike handles.
 
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