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Discussion Starter #1
Should I go with 2 8" 4 ohm single voice coil subs or 1 10" DVC? This is going in my extended cab f350 super duty.
 

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depends on what u got goin on man.

me personaly i usualy just go with one sub (usualy 12"0. only because its sooo much easier to set up one sub. with 2 there gonna fight eachother for the same air space (the inside of your truck) so there gonna cancel eachother out to a degree, unless u got some mad sterio set up skills. from my experience ive gained little going to a multi sub setup.

also i sualy just run a good set of components up front and nothing else. a stout 4 channel amp should handle the business. just bridge the rear if not running a dvc sub. good imaging and not alot of speakers fighting for air space makes a very efficient system. only draw back is, more speakers usualy proved more backround sound u might be missing from the music. but u can always leave the stock rear speakers (turned down very low) hooked up to the head units amp for alittle fill if u like.

anyway some sepnd alot buying all kinds of amps and speakers. i spends alot on a few very good pieces and IMHO get alot better sound.
 

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1killer1liter said:
Should I go with 2 8" 4 ohm single voice coil subs or 1 10" DVC? This is going in my extended cab f350 super duty.
Go with the one ten. Then get a slot loaded enclosure it will out pound the 2 eights hands down BTW I got the same truck. But I got 4 12's
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm trying to keep the truck useable. Its not a sound machine, I'm not going to any stereo competitions and I don't need to be the loudest car in high school.
I have a fosgate punch 301m amp that I'm trying to match speaker(s) to. The box that holds 2 8's fits under the seat and fires down. The 1 10" box fits like a center console for the back and fires down. I have infinity reference 6x8s in all 4 doors running off the deck (45w x 4) which is more than enough mid and high.
 

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10" are overkill. A 30Hz note takes 32 FEET to develope one complete cycle. That's why it's louder (low freq-wise) outside some vehicles than inside. Inside you feel the air pressure change, you don't hear the notes. If you want to feel the sound, more cone area=lower possible notes=more air movement=thump in the chest. If you want to hear the sound, smaller cone that rolls off at about 40Hz works better=8". Also, buy or make the correct enclosure for it, makes a world of difference.
For what it's worth, I spent 23 years making a living at installing car stereo. Just my $.02.
 

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The 32 feet rule is true but the slot loaded center console will help shorten that....Maybe I'll get off my lazy ass and take some pics of my truck tomorrow.
 

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The problem with any slot load (or ported) design is that it becomes a band pass box. Only a narrow range of low frequency will get out to your ear. So instead of having say 40Hz to 140Hz, you get 80 to 95Hz. Not bad in a car environment, but limiting if you are really listening to the music, not just drowning out the road noise.
 

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If its worth my .02, and many did help me with my setup from the site :wink:, i put a 10" infinity perfect 10.1 dvc in a type 1 q-logic box in the trunk of my acura. i have 420rms watts pushing it and it will freakin do what ever you want, i am overly impressed by this sub, i have 70rms watts going to 4 polk momo componets in the car. i listen to rap, rock, everything, and it does well with all, everything balances well for my taste. my buddy had a JL 10" put in his avalanche, custom box made under the left passanger seat, honestly, i didn't think the box was big enough, it sounded like it was fighting to make sound or just not setup right, but, in an f-350, you should have more room for a better box if custom made is the route you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Based on your application and choices, I would go with the 2 8" subs because the enclosure fits underneath the seat. I would personally like the idea of keeping the area behind the seats free.


If you do go with a single, you don't need a DVC - they only do that to give you more wiring options. For instance, if both are 4ohm, your wiring options are 4 ohms to 2 channels (each VC to it's own channel), and either 8 or 2 ohms to a single amp channel (both VC wired either in series or parallel respectively to a single channel). Assuming the 301m is a mono sub amp, you would only have a single channel which limits your wiring options. In that case, a 2ohm SVC sub is functionally equivalent to a 4ohm DVC sub (assuming here that wouldn't want to run the amp at 8ohms). Not saying you SHOULD get a SVC, just that DVC isn't required.
 

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tell ya what, getting an answer to this is like asking a 10 different people which color they like best for the 10R. Pick one, see if you like it, if you don't no harm in going the other direction, its only money!! Its your ears that will be listening to it. I honestly can't tell the difference between my personal $1100 Polk tower speakers for the home vs my cousins $40k speakers. Ya, they should sound better, but shit, my ears arent that good.
Its all personal preference. Everyone said get 2 10's for the acura, i am glad i didn't, i don't know why i would have needed it, 1 is doing damn fine for me.
 

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RickRoush03 said:
tell ya what, getting an answer to this is like asking a 10 different people which color they like best for the 10R. Pick one, see if you like it, if you don't no harm in going the other direction, its only money!! Its your ears that will be listening to it. I honestly can't tell the difference between my personal $1100 Polk tower speakers for the home vs my cousins $40k speakers. Ya, they should sound better, but shit, my ears arent that good.
Its all personal preference. Everyone said get 2 10's for the acura, i am glad i didn't, i don't know why i would have needed it, 1 is doing damn fine for me.
:+1:

Get what YOU think sounds the best to YOU. YOU are going to be listening to them, so YOU should choose what sounds best to YOU and fits YOUR applications. Listen to both setups and see which one you like better.

Just curious, what subs you looking at?

and just FYI, you mentioned you're running your 4 speakers off the deck only at 45x4. Unless you've got some killer deck that I don't know about, that's only peak power and you're probably getting somewhere around 20 rms per channel from the deck. Just make sure you keep an eye on rms vs peak powers when you're matching your setups...

G
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I could also do 3 8" subs. I was looking at boxes and found one with 3 8s. 3 8 ohm svc, or 3 4 ohm dvc. I'm leaning toward the 10 because I like the way 2 12s sound, but I don't like that I lose seat space with the 1 10. I could also spring for 2 10s from mtx in a thunderform box for around $500.
 

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If you are thinking of 3 8's, see if you can't find some old JL 8w6's.
They are 6 ohm subs, and therefore can be wired in parallel.
You could get some serious sound out of those with a good amp running mono.
 

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.....the fosgate amp is only mono stable down to 2 ohms(300RMS)....so you are going to need either 1 SVC 2 ohm sub, 2 SVC 4ohm subs, 1 DVC 4ohm sub, or 2 DVC 2ohm subs..... with each of these sub setups, you can achieve a 2 ohm load.

Personally, I'd go with a single 10 in a low tuned ported box in the back of the truck LPF at 60Hz, then an 8" up front under the dash in a sealed enclosure with a 60Hz HPF and 100-120Hz LPF....that would cover everything nicely...

Make sure your box is correct size and shape for the sub/subs...
 

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Dawson-ZX said:
.....the fosgate amp is only mono stable down to 2 ohms(300RMS)....so you are going to need either 1 SVC 2 ohm sub, 2 SVC 4ohm subs, 1 DVC 4ohm sub, or 2 DVC 2ohm subs..... with each of these sub setups, you can achieve a 2 ohm load.

Personally, I'd go with a single 10 in a low tuned ported box in the back of the truck LPF at 60Hz, then an 8" up front under the dash in a sealed enclosure with a 60Hz HPF and 100-120Hz LPF....that would cover everything nicely...

Make sure your box is correct size and shape for the sub/subs...
:+1:
 
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