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Street Race Bike Build

7136 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Bucky
Hi, Finally decided to take the time and start a thread for my build.

About 3 months ago I decided to do as much as I can to my ZX-10R as I got really "Gatvol" of all the arrogant S1000RR driving around. Hoping I get 200hp to teach those S1000RR a lesson once and for all!

So first things first, the only work I have done to the bike so far is fitting a woolich racing log box with racing tools, Race tech rear spring and MicroBlue racing ceramic wheel bearings.

About a week after that spent one night removing the head, so I can send it to Vance and Hince. A very impulsive move!

With the engine out I sent the crank to by lightened by fulrace, received it about 3 weeks ago.

Head is finished, but needed new Intake valves for the gen 4 Intake cam which delayed the head about a week. So I only received it last week, a bit of a inconvenience to be honest as I only had a week of leave left to finish the project. Was a bit optimistic to be honest as nothing ever works out as planned, but thats just the way it goes.

Gen 4 Intake and Exhaust cam, Since I live at a high altitude we do need low end power, so big cams aren't a option unless its a all out drag bike.

Gen 3 head velocity ported fresh from the states

The rest of the pictures speak for themselves.
Combustion Chamber:



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Very nice. I'm subscribed. Oh, and welcome to the madness.
Nice mods. Should be beast when you get her together.

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So I sent my head, pistons, cams and bearing to get ceramic coated, after receiving the head back the first time last week. All the ceramic coating came off cleaning the head with water. Brilliant! Phone the owner, he sent a courier service to pickup the head. Week later receive the head with the coating already off at certain areas of the combustion chamber, contacted the owner again via email still waiting for him to get back to me. Now I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. Do I send the head back to them again and risk getting it back even worse or send it back to Vance and Hines to fix this F#@kup? :angryfire:

I don't think the texture change with the slight running in the ports and epoxy that was sand blasted a bit to much will be a problem, but the bits of uncoated sandblasted sections in the combustion chamber is a problem.

This is a company that works with aircraft engines and mining machinery. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Sounds like a nice build for sure. I would recommend getting all that shit off your head. There's no need for ceramic coating an aluminum head. I'd argue that there's no need for ceramic coating an iron head either. Ceramic coating headers even is more for corrosion resistance than anything. Some will say it's for heat but I've seen plenty of Harley headers ceramic coated and they're not noticeably cooler. They will however resist rusting for a much longer period of time. I would not want ceramic flaking off inside my engine. Good luck with your street race. I hope it's safer to street race in South Africa than it is here.
Good luck with ur project.
200hp at the wheel needs a little bit of work
Stock pistons?
Have u ever weight ur crankshaft before and after ?:wink2::wink2:
bit of advice, whoever cleaned combustion chambers used powered wire wheel or wire cone brush and got way too agressive, those chambers are stretched outward and too much metal removed everywhere. ur pics, valves in, indicate same. head needs a serious mill to restore/increase compression. all that ceramic needs to be removed, and valve seats recut to high perf. specs. pics can be misleading, but i've yet to see any sign of proper valve seat angles in either before or after coating necessary for seal and high hp. u have no valve seal with coating as applied to valve seats. just a heads up.
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the stocks 15 s1000rr are making 183... you need a bit more than that to be in front...
for reference same dyno gen4s are making 179 and s1000rr 09-14 177hp.
Thanx for all the advice, they are going to fix this mess.

@theatiss Stock pistons ceramic coated and friction reducing coating. I was in a bit of a rush to get the crank to them so never weighed it. :|

@gazx10 Vance and Hines did a performance valve seat job, they were never suppose to coat the valve seat as the valve seats weren't originally coated when I first received it. The head has been decked .015 if I remember correctly. Think it should be enough to raise compression with thinner head gasket.

@mpp12 I'm hoping the the ceramic wheel and transmission bearings as well as the ceramic coated main and Conrod bearings gets me close to 200hp. Another friend got his gen 3 gasflowed and cams with stock bottom end made 191 hp, a 2015 s1000rr made 182hp on the same dyno so hopefully the ceramic bearings get me the last 10hp. Just spinning the transmission by hand it spins 10 times easier.

200hp might be a bit optimistic but I'm going to try and stay positive even after al the shit that has happend. And yes I do regret sending the head to get ceramic coated. But thats just the way it goes. If I didn't do it know I would have done it 6 months down the line.
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can measure easily to see how much decked. on first 4 gens those 2 small head bolt cast bosses on the head just outside the cam chain tunnell will measure very very close to .670 inch length on every one i ever ck'd. so .015 off will measure very close to .655 from top of boss to head deck surface. .015 off or not just saying those chambers are huge still. let us know how u come out.
@gazx10 Maybe I can go with a thinner gasket then .45, removing middle layer of .60 gasket should make it thinner than .45 in theory. should be enough for huge chambers. Thoughts? Piston to valve clearance will be tight so will have to degree accordingly. Kinda leaning towards sticking with the .45 gasket, as I'm not certain of chamber size with out measuring it

It is been a long time since I've been on this form, studies and work has been hectic

Managed to get the bike back together after a lot of issues...

Took it to a "reputable tuner" got the bike back idling at 2000rpm and running like ass... Decided to pull the mapping and guess what timing, ignition map is still stock with fueling all over the place. Well decided to road tune it, correcting the fueling so I can use the motorcycle for the time being as is. Motor lasted about 280km and spin a conrod bearing. Turns out oil and water pump decided to destroy themselves...

Long story short fixed it, got the bike on a reputable dyno and it made 186hp on a very hot day. 35 degree Celsius and bike temperature at 105 degree Celsius. The owner of the dyno mentioned a 2017 s1000rr makes 181 hp on the same dyno but I have not seen a dyno graph confirming this...suggesting it needs to be taken with a grain of salt. The dyno did, however, show a gain of 22hp which is a significant gain but 14hp less than the original 200hp I was hoping for. Guess I was a little naive about the gains I would get.

I'm planning on getting the bike back on the dyno to get the ignition timing tuned as there might still be some power left in it. The dyno owner mentioned that they have gotten a few more horsepowers out of these bikes adjusting the ignition timing. Sounds promising...

I'm considering supercharging the bike as it currently sits but that will only come at a later stage when I have more time. In the meantime, I managed to total my er6n. Walked away with just a badly bruised leg and light concussion. Forcing me to purchase a new daily, thus I am now a proud new owner of an Aprilia Tuono 1100RR. Loving it but the zx10r will always be the weapon of choice.

The bike does accelerate like a bat out of hell, and I have raced another zx10r, gsxr 1000 and zx14 all of which did not come close to me. :thumbsup:
overall I'm happy with the outcome and looking forward to getting input.

P.S Still need to race BMW S1000RR and looking forward to the opportunity to do it.


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