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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anybody running 80 shot on stock rods, if so how long have you been spraying the motor?
Stock or built motor....
 

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I've run 10psi on stock rods without issue, but nitrous is a different animal. I think that an 80 shot is boderline, but do-able with a good tune up.
 

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Your pushing the envelope with an 80 shot on a stock motor. You will slowly bend the rods till one fails. You using a dry system.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your pushing the envelope with an 80 shot on a stock motor. You will slowly bend the rods till one fails. You using a dry system.
I'm NOT stock just stock rods I'm making 251HP now with a 50 shot........ I need more I need more. :biggrin:

YES DRY SYSTEM..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got a buddy with gen1 sprayin 100 shot on stock bottom end... Its all about the tune,setup tone!
is he still spraying the motor? and how long have he been spraying it? or how long did he spray it?

I got one of the top tuners Ryan Schnitz :thumbsup:

80 max for me :dontknow:
 

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Just make sure you have good fuel and a good rich tune with TIMING pulled.

I know my 04 was making cloase to 230 on spray way back when and never had issues and that was stock timing and pump gas :p

Nitrous is harsher on the engine though so be careful.

I say do it!
 

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be putting engine on a short fuse even with good fuel/tune. one glitch in fueling and burnt piston, hg, block, or area between ex. valves along with increased rod/bearing chance of failure. not a low risk mod. u have a good tuner, discuss with him risk and longevity of what u want to do. know u just did fuel pump, but 280 hp will be getting into a power range close to maxing stk. injectors out. tuning becomes difficult when that is happening. no doubt it can be done, but a rod would be just one of several concerns i would have.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not sure I want to push the envelope with a 80 shot, the more feed back I'm getting making me really think do I want to take the chance with a very good running bike.

I'm a working man I don't have unlimited cash flow might just do 68 hp
 

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I'm not sure I want to push the envelope with a 80 shot, the more feed back I'm getting making me really think do I want to take the chance with a very good running bike.

I'm a working man I don't have unlimited cash flow might just do 68 hp
Probably the smartest move to keep your engine alive longer. Good that the piston's are not stock thicker dome's will help with the dry NOS. I use to run a supercomp dragbike with a wet NOS system it was 365 hp but it was a purpose built motor Piston's, Rods and crank to handle the NOS load.
 

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I'm not sure I want to push the envelope with a 80 shot, the more feed back I'm getting making me really think do I want to take the chance with a very good running bike.

I'm a working man I don't have unlimited cash flow might just do 68 hp
That's the smarter option by far. If you don't have the money right now to build a motor from scratch, better not to gamble out there on the edge. Once you have a spare motor built it's a lot of fun to see what the stock one can handle..... Murphy's Law(s) pretty much state that if you don't have a spare motor lying around that the original will not last anywhere near as long. :wink:

FWIW, it's really not the rods that are going to fail, it's going to be the rod bolts that stretch first... then it eats a bearing. You could just replace the hardware, but I've heard from more than one reputable source that you want to resize the rods if you do that. By the time you replace all that hardware with quality stuff and get them machined you'll be more than halfway to a new set of Crower rods.
 

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is he still spraying the motor? and how long have he been spraying it? or how long did he spray it?

I got one of the top tuners Ryan Schnitz :thumbsup:

80 max for me :dontknow:
Yep! He been sprayin for 2yrs and only open up the motor once. I wouldnt spray that much man but lettin you no it has been done.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's the smarter option by far. If you don't have the money right now to build a motor from scratch, better not to gamble out there on the edge. Once you have a spare motor built it's a lot of fun to see what the stock one can handle..... Murphy's Law(s) pretty much state that if you don't have a spare motor lying around that the original will not last anywhere near as long. :wink:

FWIW, it's really not the rods that are going to fail, it's going to be the rod bolts that stretch first... then it eats a bearing. You could just replace the hardware, but I've heard from more than one reputable source that you want to resize the rods if you do that. By the time you replace all that hardware with quality stuff and get them machined you'll be more than halfway to a new set of Crower rods.
:notworthy: I called Crower today
 

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So.... I'll just post open ended questions.

Why would a connecting rod care about rod bolt strength if RPM wasn't an issue?

When and what part of the rod bearing (and rod bolts) is under the most stress? Is it the upper - when cylinder pressure is making all the power - or the lower when it has to just deal with yanking the piston assembly back down?

Why is no one here talking about kit bearing upgrades that are harder and can take the stress of increased cylinder BMEP?

Why no discussion about increasing oil pressure and in turn volume to these bearings? Why no discussion on oil choice and optimum oil temp for reliability?
 

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So.... I'll just post open ended questions.

Why would a connecting rod care about rod bolt strength if RPM wasn't an issue?

When and what part of the rod bearing (and rod bolts) is under the most stress? Is it the upper - when cylinder pressure is making all the power - or the lower when it has to just deal with yanking the piston assembly back down?

Why is no one here talking about kit bearing upgrades that are harder and can take the stress of increased cylinder BMEP?

Why no discussion about increasing oil pressure and in turn volume to these bearings? Why no discussion on oil choice and optimum oil temp for reliability?
I think because the OP was asking how much NOS could a stock motor tolerate without modifications to the motor.
 
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