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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
12k+ km (~7500 miles) so far since the last stator was re-wired by a reputable shop, and now having low voltage issues.
Issue: Previously 12.8~13.8V, now 11.5V below 5k RPM for first fifteen minutes to half an hour before it goes up to 12.6-ish.

I started the bike and measured the voltages of the 3 pins coming from the stator.
Two pairs registered over 50VAC, but one pair shows much lower than that. Safe to assume part of the coil is burned.

I have not get to checking the rectifier.

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Am I just bad luck, or is this so common?
I heard of Rick's stator but it is expensive shipped to me. What are the options? Chinese stators are ~$25 a piece.

Is the stator partially submerged in the engine oil?
What can I do to improve the life of this thing?
Is it possible to add an aftermarket oil cooler? Gen3 only has the heat exchanger where the oil filter is mounted to, no external oil cooler/radiator.

My bike, oil changed 5000km interval, ester oil. Coolant temperature betwen 87C to 97C (188F to 207F), but few occasions it does get to 100C (214F).
Integrated LED tail lamp, and LED headlamps. Nothing else.

I've also read this troubleshooting tips, and will get to the rectifier later: Is my battery or rectifier bad?
 

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Do a visual of your stator first, the quality issue with most is that aftermarket and re wound stator don't have protective coating over the nest, so don't last so long (generally) and yes the stator is drenched in oil when bike is running but submerged is mot technically correct. LED set ups and cause regulator issues, but I would visually check stator first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Michael.

Seems I should dump the oil before opening up the stator cover. Got it.

So, what's the path forward with the stator? The re-wind uses enamel coated wires so with the additional protective coating, I imagine the coating is subjected to heat cycles under normal use, and probably that could accelerate the failure. So, if that is possible, would it be better without the coating and just let the wires be exposed? If heat is the major factor, I have stator cover protection. Just wondering if that kept the heat in, and is a bad thing.

On the LED, I cannot go back to using halogen headlamps, nor do I want HIDs.
 

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No need to drop oil to pull stator. But the only way to know it isn't damaged is tivisually check it, maybe is OK, if it has coating great but you should be able to see any issues.
 

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Yup, seems like you lost one of the phases on the alternator. If you're not getting the proper output from the alternator, the rectifier can be discounted as the cause. It's clearly the alternator not outputting because it has an issue. Lots of reasons for that to fail, but as michael said a visual inspection would be good. Not that that will help overall since you have a phase out and there won't be much you can do about it after you find the problem, but it's good to know. You don't have to dump the oil, you'll just lose a little bit of the drippings when the cover comes off. Remember, it is a dry sump motor so you won't dump a bunch of it out or anything. The alternator doesn't spin in the oil, it's more of a spray onto it and drippings onto it.

I believe the windings are coated in an epoxy resin, not enamel. But it's the same difference. It provides basically a heatsink as well as insulation for the small wire windings. Running without that would be prone to failure much sooner than without it. Even with the resin, heat can cause it to deteriorate over time. A bad electrical connection on any of the terminals in the connector you show would add resistance to the circuit and that can cause one of the small windings to come apart. I don't think your case savers are causing any major heat build up to worry about. Adding an aftermarket oil cooler would be difficult with the liquid cooled oil cooler already there. You're best bet to manage any extra heat would be in the cooling system itself. Keep the engine cooler and the oil won't be as hot. You can use a different coolant and make sure that the radiator is in good condition with no bent fins and no build-up inside to block that passage ways.

You'll need a new stator. Whether you choose to go the cheap route or the OEM route is up to you. I would just estimate that you'll go through 2 of the cheaper ones as opposed to going with an OEM one. That's never set in stone though and you may luck out. Just keep that in mind. I don't know what's available to you on that side of the pond though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you both, @michael4012 @SkyDork

Without messing with draining the oil first would be much better for me. I have a phobia dealing with the oil drain nut worrying that I might strip it or something, say causing a leak that goes to the rear tyre.

My cooling system was serviced quite recently, less than 500 miles at that, with new hoses and fresh coolant. That got the temp down by some margin, 3~5C ballpark.

I am under the impression that Kawasaki models, not just ZX-10R, have noticeable shorter stator life than other brand bikes. Please correct this perception of mine if you know this is not true.

I will get a Chinese copy, and send the existing one for recoil and spare. Once every 2 years is good enough reason to keep one.
 

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Thank you both, @michael4012 @SkyDork

Without messing with draining the oil first would be much better for me. I have a phobia dealing with the oil drain nut worrying that I might strip it or something, say causing a leak that goes to the rear tyre.

My cooling system was serviced quite recently, less than 500 miles at that, with new hoses and fresh coolant. That got the temp down by some margin, 3~5C ballpark.

I am under the impression that Kawasaki models, not just ZX-10R, have noticeable shorter stator life than other brand bikes. Please correct this perception of mine if you know this is not true.

I will get a Chinese copy, and send the existing one for recoil and spare. Once every 2 years is good enough reason to keep one.
It's hard to say whether the Kawi thing is a widespread issue. The only electrical issue I've ever had on a Kawasaki was my '09 ZX-10R. It burned up a rectifier after running it on a dyno. The location for that is right behind the motor. On the dyno the engine got hot and the rectifier got no cooling. Kawi had a recall on that model for that very reason and I got it replaced for free. That was the only issue with any of the 8 different Kawi's I've had. So I would say your perception is a bit different than mine. Yours may be more situational depending on how you maintain the bike and what mods may contribute to it. It sucks when it happens, but it can happen to any of them.

As for your oil drain bolt phobia, I'd say you're over thinking that. I'm not at all sure how you could possibly strip that bolt. You remove it and then put in back in by hand. If you use your fingers to screw the bolt back in until it reaches the washer and then torque it with a wrench, you'll never strip it. You don't need to overtorque it and you can't cross thread it with your fingers. The worst thing you can do is to force it in which a cordless tool or something like that. That would likely cause it to strip. Otherwise, it's a no-brainer and you shouldn't worry about that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Should I clean it first? At the moment, it appears few of the windings are burnt. I could smell the familiar burnt coating.

Please click on thumbnail to enlarge the photo.
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What exactly do you want to clean? The resin is discolored from the heat. Cleaning the resin won't accomplish anything electrically. The wire windings beneath the resin is where the issue is. You can clean it all you want to make it look prettier, but the electrons flowing in the wiring don't see any of that.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What exactly do you want to clean? The resin is discolored from the heat. Cleaning the resin won't accomplish anything electrically. The wire windings beneath the resin is where the issue is. You can clean it all you want to make it look prettier, but the electrons flowing in the wiring don't see any of that.


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Haha, I know cleaning it won't fix it. Thanks.
I meant to take a better photo of the coils, so to see if it is indeed burnt.

For a peace of mind, I have ordered an original stator coil. Will take a while to arrive, and update as progress is made.
 
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