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Discussion Starter #1
Good day all. I dropped a valve 3 years ago and decided recently to bring the bike back to life. Motor is back in, but doesnt start. Engine is turning over, pump is running high pressure and there is spark (starts when adding fuel to throttle bodies). It does not give me an error code or Fi light. I have unplugged a couple of sensors and some of them does not give an Fi light when ignition turned to on (maybe it is normal?) The ones mentioned include:
- cam positioning sensor (also swapped it as I have another one)
- fuel injector (one unplugged)
- stick coil (one unplugged)
- sub throttle valve

Unplugging the main throttle bodies plug does give Fi light.

I have read similar threads from the past, but nothing really matches my description.
Would really appreciate all comments.

Thanks!!
Barry
 

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Good day all. I dropped a valve 3 years ago and decided recently to bring the bike back to life. Motor is back in, but doesnt start. Engine is turning over, pump is running high pressure and there is spark (starts when adding fuel to throttle bodies). It does not give me an error code or Fi light. I have unplugged a couple of sensors and some of them does not give an Fi light when ignition turned to on (maybe it is normal?) The ones mentioned include:
- cam positioning sensor (also swapped it as I have another one)
- fuel injector (one unplugged)
- stick coil (one unplugged)
- sub throttle valve

Unplugging the main throttle bodies plug does give Fi light.

I have read similar threads from the past, but nothing really matches my description.
Would really appreciate all comments.

Thanks!!
Barry
Welcome!

First of, what did you do to "prep" the bike before letting it sit for 3 years?

First thing I'd be doing is flow testing all the injectors. That's an awfully long time to let fuel be sitting in the system. Lots of crap, water, debris, broken down fuel, etc sitting in those lines if you didn't drain and purge the system before letting it sit around.

Also, the above confuses me. There shouldn't be any spark to the plugs until the motor is actually turning. It has nothing to do with the fuel pump. So unless you've checked the spark plugs while the motor is turning over, then I'm not sure how else you could verify that.

Some sensors will cause an FI light, others won't. Unplugging an injector won't cause it. Neither will unplugging a coil. Crank sensor, cam position sensor, main throttle sensor, vehicle down sensor, etc. will though.

This sounds like a fueling issue more than anything. It's not getting fuel into the cylinders is my guess. Fuel pressure, good flow to the cylinders, even a compression/leak down check on the cylinders to be sure you don't have a leaking valve or a stuck ring or anything dropping the compression to the point it won't run would be the first things to check imo.
 

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firing off when fuel added to int. tact eliminates ign. issues. jump ur kickstand switch by connecting the two wires together, problem persists, connect test light to neg side of battery and probe the 4 injector wires at injectors that are common colored, white/red stripe i believe, they should all be hot switch on. if so now test different colored wire on each injector. it brings timed ground signal to injector from ecu to fire injector. connect test light to positive side of battery and probe odd colored wire. it will pulse test light engine cranking over when ecu sends ground signal to injector to fire it for starting/running. this will eliminate or affirm any ground/wiring/connection/ecu problem and narrow problem to pump, kinked line, or inj. however, never seen a set of 4 injectors so clogged bike will not fire and i recentley had a set of 310 cc injectors that flowed in the 70's total before cleaned. that bike cranked easily, just broke up above 6k. cant determine fuel pressure without a gauge though, and fuel pumps will fool u. test inj for constant positive, and pulsed neg signal. will really narrow problem down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the comments, will work them through and give feedback. really appreciated!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did some tests yesterday. Firstly unplugged all sub-harnesses; inspect; cleaned and tested continuity, all good. Tested ecu for power and ground, also good. Injector power source volt at ecu, good. Injector power source volt at injector, good. Injector output volt at ecu, good. Output volt at ecu, good. Output volt at injector connector, good. Injector signal test, all 4 good. Injector resistance little high; 12.9 ohm, but was at 30 degree Celsius?? (std: 11.7-12.3 at 20 deg.) Injector Unit test (with bulb in series); injector 2&3 clicks; injector 1&4 does not click???? Manual says if it doesnt click; replace the throttle body assembly!!

Can I do anything else like take injectors out and clean them? No idea how to do this!!

Please help me here guys and forgive my stupidity!!!

Regards from South Africa!!
 

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if i understand what ur saying correctley, u have positive constant power to each injector and pulsed negative signal present to fire injectors on all 4. ur hearing audible click from 2 and no click from two? if correct u have a simple clogged/stuck injector problem and i suspect compounded by fuel pump. sittting 3 years with fuel in system can corrode both. throttle bodies just a housing to direct/meter air flow, basic housing does not go bad, but may be cheaper to replace if good fuel injector cleaning service not avaliable instead of replacing injectors alone. diy cleaning of injectors will not work well if at all. replaced several fuel pumps, had many injectors professionally cleaned in last couple of years from sitting in fuel. have 5 sets to get cleaned right now, 3 pumps to replace. find professional service to restore injectors or replace used which has become a roll of the dice. injectors cleaned with correct power/signal to fire u should run great if fuel pump not affected, suspect it is. if avaliable swap a tank and tb;s from another bike for results. ur getting there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Silly question: Right next to the Cam positioning sensor, there are three bolt holes; I have no idea what is suppose to be fitted there??

Injectors are being cleaned, should get them today. Will give feed back next week!! Holding thumbs!!

Regards
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks a lot guys!! She alive and running well; cant wait to take her out!!
Really appreciate all your inputs and suggestions!!!

Regards
Barry
 

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glad ur running again. very good time to clean fuel pump external sock filter and more importantley fuel pump housing internal filter. corossion/deposits formed here from sitting in old fuel restrict flow at high rpm's, can make it to the injectors causing problems. this is a diy service really worth doing in ur situation. condition of ur injectors is a good indicator complete fuel system needs cleaning. bike can run clean with fuel pump losing some pressure or slightley restricted filter flow even up top. just does'nt rip like a ten should, worst secenerio is hesitation/bogging at high rpm as mixture is leaned from either or combo of both. can recommend a no mod /direct replacement/bolt in new fuel pump ive had good experience with for $45. this along with filters cleaned will give u top performance. hope u run strong as is, do these last two mods and i guarantee u will.
 

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Thanks a lot guys!! She alive and running well; cant wait to take her out!!
Really appreciate all your inputs and suggestions!!!

Regards
Barry
:ayyy:

This is good news! Follow gazx10's other suggestions as well.

And let me also add that you need to take it EASY on the bike that you haven't ridden in so long. You're not used to it and you don't know what else could be a potential issue (ie- brake pads, fork seals, etc).

If you are still running the same tires you had on there when you put it away, swap them out NOW. Doesn't matter that you have plenty of tread on them and that they "look" good. Check the 4 digit date code on the sidewall of them and see when they were molded. Tires should be changed out after 5 years regardless of how much tread they have. The rubber gets hard and the traction goes way down in that time. Not something you want to risk on a 150hp bike when you think they will grip.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took her out and did around 120km. Took it slow max 7000rpm. No knocking noises or any leaks. Around 4000rpm it has a bit of a wining sound like timing chain too tight???? No fueling issues, But reckon I will clean the pump out. Put some fresh tyres and brake pads; added some braided hoses; much better brakes!!

Stage 2: will do a complete spray job and get the 10 in showroom condition; plan to keep it forever as my Sunday Cruise bike. Dont think I will ever ride it to the limit again. The old Timer will have nice life!!

Will post some photos after a couple of months and thanks again for the help and support!!

Regards
Barry
 
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