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Good evening everyone. i was out riding last night and unfortunately i broke a good portion of my teeth in my sprocket and it's time to order a new one. From the previous owner its a 520 set with rk chain, rear sprocket was renthal and my front sprocket was driven. not trying to piece out like that and looking to get one set if possible. i read some good things about driven but wanted to see if anyone has any other recommendations they think i should go with. Thanks in advance for all advise really appreciate it!
 

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I've been using and selling the Drive Systems steel stuff with DID ZVM-X chain for about 4 seasons now. They last forever with minimal maintenance. In fact I kinda wish they weren't so good as I sell a lot less sprocket kits now that everyone has gone away from Alloy sprockets we all used to use to these Steel rears.
 

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I've been using and selling the Drive Systems steel stuff with DID ZVM-X chain for about 4 seasons now. They last forever with minimal maintenance. In fact I kinda wish they weren't so good as I sell a lot less sprocket kits now that everyone has gone away from Alloy sprockets we all used to use to these Steel rears.
How much would a set cost me??
 

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Now is a good time to just start from scratch. Screw the 520 chain BS and stick with OEM pitches. Also, avoid driven for your drive-train. I know they're products are widely used and backed but stick with a company that specializes in chain/sprocket manufacturing like Vortex, DID, Renthal, JT, or RK. Try a -2/-4, 525 pitch set-up. You're dropping weight and you're not screwing with any power (you'll get a +2% torque gain and -2% top speed). If you're having a hard time finding sprockets with that tooth count try this: https://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/sprockets?has_mmy=true&sprocket_position=Rear

Only con to dropping weight like this though is sprocket life. You're looking at 90% life vs OEM 525 gearing, but probably 100+% the life of your 520 set-up.
 

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buy a EK 3D chain, buy a stock back, plenti in ebay like new and weight the same as a brand steel, and buy a renthal or driven front -1.

and forget about this.
 

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I've been using and selling the Drive Systems steel stuff with DID ZVM-X chain for about 4 seasons now. They last forever with minimal maintenance. In fact I kinda wish they weren't so good as I sell a lot less sprocket kits now that everyone has gone away from Alloy sprockets we all used to use to these Steel rears.
Agreed, I even started using Stainless steel rear sprockets on my Yz450 motocross bike. They are cut out big time so the weight is less than a conventional steel sprocket. They last forever. The only drawback is that they last so long you forget that you should replace the chain before it breaks or wears out.
 

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been happy with my DID Chain 520 setup with driven rear and front sprocket -1 +2.
 

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-1 +2 = no top end.... no bueno

gen4 is -1F
gen 5 is +1R

Come on bro... :crackup:

1. The bike as delivered is limited to 186mph
2. The bike as delivered barely has enough hp to pull redline in 6th gear and you aren't going to set any top speed records
3. Who in the hell is really riding around at redline in 6th gear at 186+mph?





 

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LDH,

I really respect your point of view...makes you sense...

1 - A flash and the bike is not limited.
2- correct, the bike barely gets to near the limiter in 6th even with flash... mine has like 193hp and -1F gets 13700rpm in the data logger when riding here in 6th gear.
3- Bring you bike to Dominican Republic and get ready to ride really fast.... more than a couple of bikes here blown up in the way from Sto Dgo to Punta Cana... long straights and 130+mph curves. for 50kms.

you need top speed not to get records, you need top speed because when you ride with guys that can ride fast you need all you can get, and my experience is, you get 2 short and the bike just revs and revs and dont move forward (hope I make sense), 2 long and the bike does not get to the sweet spot, you need the bike short so it can move the bike when winds are not helping and when the wind favors, the bike the power does not drop...

-1F and +2 on the back you lose on a gen4 like 6mph

the shortest for flash stock power would be -1+1.
 

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Ya I guess. For me -1, +2 is perfect. It puts me in the meat of the power at all times. For all the Canyon and tracks around my area top speed is not KING. The race is won in the turns, and the turns do not need all that speed that would come from even the stock set up.
 

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will this mess with my speedometer at all??

Come on bro... :crackup:

1. The bike as delivered is limited to 186mph
2. The bike as delivered barely has enough hp to pull redline in 6th gear and you aren't going to set any top speed records
3. Who in the hell is really riding around at redline in 6th gear at 186+mph?





 

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will this mess with my speedometer at all??

Stock Japanese bike speedo's with stock gearing are generally optimistic about 7-8% at freeway speeds 70-80mph. That error is non-linear for example at 35mph the speedo may be perfectly accurate, but at 75mpg it may be off by 7% and by an indicated 130mph it may be off as much as 13-14% etc.

When you lower the overall gearing even further that error grows with a -1 / +2 gearing combination you may now be off 12% at 75mph instead. These numbers are just examples, but they will be close to what you experience if you run the numbers in the real world.
 

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Stock Japanese bike speedo's with stock gearing are generally optimistic about 7-8% at freeway speeds 70-80mph. That error is non-linear for example at 35mph the speedo may be perfectly accurate, but at 75mpg it may be off by 7% and by an indicated 130mph it may be off as much as 13-14% etc.

When you lower the overall gearing even further that error grows with a -1 / +2 gearing combination you may now be off 12% at 75mph instead. These numbers are just examples, but they will be close to what you experience if you run the numbers in the real world.
:iamwithstupid:

This information is pretty much spot on! With 1 exception. The G4 and G5 get their speed reference from the rear wheel, not the transmission output shafts like the earlier models. With that in mind, the error values quoted by LDH will exist no matter what sprocket is on there and shouldn't change with gearing mods.
 

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Stay 525, use oem or vortex sprokets and use this chain:

Amazon.com: D.I.D 525 ZVM-X Super Street Series Chain - 120 Links - Gold , Chain Type: 525, Chain Length: 120, Color: Gold, Chain Application: Offroad 525ZVM-X GOLD X 120: Automotive

I wear out chains about every 18k miles; chain wear based upon your riding conditions and riding level. Oem chain wear well but wear out for me about 12k; dealer installed new EK chain and that stretched with every ride but can't recall number of miles it lasted but very little. Steel front wears good but steel back oem or vortex have the best wear for me; steel only.
 

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Stay 525, use oem or vortex sprokets and use this chain:

Amazon.com: D.I.D 525 ZVM-X Super Street Series Chain - 120 Links - Gold , Chain Type: 525, Chain Length: 120, Color: Gold, Chain Application: Offroad 525ZVM-X GOLD X 120: Automotive

I wear out chains about every 18k miles; chain wear based upon your riding conditions and riding level. Oem chain wear well but wear out for me about 12k; dealer installed new EK chain and that stretched with every ride but can't recall number of miles it lasted but very little. Steel front wears good but steel back oem or vortex have the best wear for me; steel only.
Why 525 chain? 520 just as strong or stronger than stock, and lighter? Steel front/rear sprockets agreed!

Tried aluminum rear sprocket once, and only once - never again. They degrade fast as hell. The hybrid alum/steel rear is interesting.

Also tried 530 chain - heavy as fvk, and a very noticeable difference in performance once switched back to 520.
 
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