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Our tracks require it, not because I'm slow and can't carry corner speed but because the track is slow and if you run stock gearing you'll be using 1st-3rd gear and maybe touching 4th. You'll get left behind out of corners because you'll be at 4,000rpm in 2nd. Same as I can't run the same shock/fork springs at every track. If you want to be competitive with the top guys you need to change things and make the bike work. We had a guy run +1f (18) and not sure the rear, at Mosport last year. He lost to Corti by milliseconds.

I'll say it again, every track is different and why I carry 3 fronts, 5 rears, and two chains.

On the street who's carrying huge corner speed anyway?
 

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Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.
Just so Im clear, you can go +2 and keep the stock chain, or would you need to get an aftermarket 525 or go down to 520 chain?
 

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Just so Im clear, you can go +2 and keep the stock chain, or would you need to get an aftermarket 525 or go down to 520 chain?
Usually you can go +2 and keep the stock 525 chain, as long as you have enough room to move the axle forward. Safer to go -1 Front for about the same effect as +2R...and IDK why people think it's so hard to change? A heavy duty impact wrench is all you need.

If you switch to a 520 chain, then you'll need both F and R sprockets.

To be honest, -1F and Rifleman was plenty to really wake my bike up and effectively use 3rd gear on back roads for a street bike. I'm pretty skeptical of racers who feel they need all those gearing options on 1000.
 

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Glad I'm not the only one who thought the Gen 5 gearing is way too long, I went with a -1/+1 Renthal Sprockets, they should be here any day now, will install them and report back. Keeping the OEM chain for now as it barely has 600 km's on it.
 

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Finally got to try out my bike at the track. Gearing is too tall! Trying out the -1 front. Sure going to be a lot of fun taking off that countersprocket nut :cautious:.
 

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2004 ZX10R (Sold) 2017 MV Agusta F3 (Sold) 2013 HP4 Competition, 2021 S1000 RR M Sport
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2ft breaker bar does the trick.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.

Gearingcommander.com speeds are theoretical based on the internal/external gearing. It's easy to calculate that stuff and pretty accurate*. But it doesn't take into account aerodynamic drag and torque - which means that those speed calculations are only accurate IF (and only if) the motor has enough power to get you to the RPM stated in the utility. I wouldn't focus at the top speeds listed, but rather the drop in MPH and rise in RPM based on difference between gearing combinations.
I agree....+ 2 in the back....second gear is deadly on the curves...
 

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Finally got to try out my bike at the track. Gearing is too tall! Trying out the -1 front. Sure going to be a lot of fun taking off that countersprocket nut :cautious:.
JD I have an air compressor and good rattle gun which whips the counter sprocket nut off in 2 seconds, no problem. You are welcome to swing by to do it if you want.

Rob
 

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Good read. So, keeping things simple; 2017 ZX-10RR, stock gearing. 17F/39R.

I understand many say -1 Front to start. But, what will an addition of +1, +2, or +3 Rear with stock 17T Front achieve in RPMs?

For example, if 2nd Gear @ 60 MPH were 7000 RPMs, what would each (+ Rear) achieve?

+1 Rear > An additional 250 RPMs = 7250 RPMs?
+2 Rear > An additional 500 RPMs = 7500 RPMs?
+3 Rear > An additional 750 RPMs = 7750 RPMs?

I read somewhere that said "a +2 Rear is the same as -1 Front" (but shortens the wheelbase).

So would -1 Front or +2 Rear be "about" the same (about a 500 RPM shift) regardless which option you chose?

So then, realistically, a 16T Front (About 500 RPMs) and +1 Rear (250 RPMs) should be "about" 750 RPMs combined?

Just trying to understand the pattern of RPM shifts as the changes go up:

-1 Front / Stock Rear (+500 RPMs) ?
+2 Rear / Stock Front (+500 RPMs) ?
-1 Front / +1 Rear (+750 RPMs) ?
-1 Front / +2 Rear (+1000 RPMs) ?
 

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500rpms to what? 60mph in 6th gear?

Not sure if this is true, but the sprocket changes do multiply the reduction in each gear. You should see a higher rpm change in the higher gears (haven't checked)

(Running - 1/+1. With it, the ZX10-R feels like it has the gearbox of a 600cc. Really cool on track, OK on the streets if you are mainly running narrow twisties. I may change it back to - 1/0 when the next tire change is in order)
 

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500rpms to what? 60mph in 6th gear?

Not sure if this is true, but the sprocket changes do multiply the reduction in each gear. You should see a higher rpm change in the higher gears (haven't checked)

(Running - 1/+1. With it, the ZX10-R feels like it has the gearbox of a 600cc. Really cool on track, OK on the streets if you are mainly running narrow twisties. I may change it back to - 1/0 when the next tire change is in order)
Brother, I sincerely appreciate your response But input like "Not sure if this is true" and "Haven't checked" marginalizes your feedback. And it's okay to not know. I don't know myself. This is why I am asking too. 😁
 

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Huh, its the other way around. Hm... Okay makes sense after the fact.

"Not sure if this is true" and "Haven't checked" marginalizes your feedback.
Can't check the numbers when I am at work. You did some back-of-the-envelope calculations for something. What did you do, and what do you want to estimate?

Top speed? RPM while on the highway? Gear while taking twisties?

The rough RPM estimate is useful for highway, or top speed consideration. What do you want to estimate?
 

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Btw, you can do your on excel spreadsheet easily.

Take the ratios from your favourite source, 2016 Ninja ZX10R | Necat Motor Kawasaki
Then you get "tire rpm". Multiply by tire circumference, and you have "distance per minute". Multiply by 60

Or, if you wanna go backwards, take speed in MPH (or KPH if you are sane), divide by 60, divide by tire circumference. Then you are back at "tire revolutions per minute". You divide by the total ratio of your selected gear (primary reduction times gear reduction times final drive [sprockets] reduction) and you are back at rpm
 

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Btw, you can do your on excel spreadsheet easily.

Take the ratios from your favourite source, 2016 Ninja ZX10R | Necat Motor Kawasaki
Then you get "tire rpm". Multiply by tire circumference, and you have "distance per minute". Multiply by 60

Or, if you wanna go backwards, take speed in MPH (or KPH if you are sane), divide by 60, divide by tire circumference. Then you are back at "tire revolutions per minute". You divide by the total ratio of your selected gear (primary reduction times gear reduction times final drive [sprockets] reduction) and you are back at rpm
Great info Lord Blueberry. I am still digesting all that info. Sky postes up a simple calculator above. The Mph is off and should be 60, not 50. But just trying to see where the RPMs will shift given a specified change as mentioned.

From 17/39 to 16/39 (-1/0)
From 17/39 to 16/40 (-1/+1)
From 17/39 to 16/41 (-1/+2)

Just trying to learn the RPM variances between gear changes.

The gear calculator looks helpful. I went ro the GearingCommander webaite but don't think I am adding in all the information correctly.
 
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