At places like Road Atlanta, Road America, VIR, NJMP? Yeah, not too far off from stock. Nothing night and day like -1/+3 stuff.
Just so Im clear, you can go +2 and keep the stock chain, or would you need to get an aftermarket 525 or go down to 520 chain?Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.
Usually you can go +2 and keep the stock 525 chain, as long as you have enough room to move the axle forward. Safer to go -1 Front for about the same effect as +2R...and IDK why people think it's so hard to change? A heavy duty impact wrench is all you need.Just so Im clear, you can go +2 and keep the stock chain, or would you need to get an aftermarket 525 or go down to 520 chain?
I agree....+ 2 in the back....second gear is deadly on the curves...Then there are guys like me who prefer +2 rear only so the change is not too aggressive and it shortens the wheelbase to help with turn-in slightly. Plus the rear sprocket is much easier to change. This is essentially the same as going -1F, but with the advantages I just mention.
Gearingcommander.com speeds are theoretical based on the internal/external gearing. It's easy to calculate that stuff and pretty accurate*. But it doesn't take into account aerodynamic drag and torque - which means that those speed calculations are only accurate IF (and only if) the motor has enough power to get you to the RPM stated in the utility. I wouldn't focus at the top speeds listed, but rather the drop in MPH and rise in RPM based on difference between gearing combinations.
JD I have an air compressor and good rattle gun which whips the counter sprocket nut off in 2 seconds, no problem. You are welcome to swing by to do it if you want.Finally got to try out my bike at the track. Gearing is too tall! Trying out the -1 front. Sure going to be a lot of fun taking off that countersprocket nut .
Brother, I sincerely appreciate your response But input like "Not sure if this is true" and "Haven't checked" marginalizes your feedback. And it's okay to not know. I don't know myself. This is why I am asking too. 😁500rpms to what? 60mph in 6th gear?
Not sure if this is true, but the sprocket changes do multiply the reduction in each gear. You should see a higher rpm change in the higher gears (haven't checked)
(Running - 1/+1. With it, the ZX10-R feels like it has the gearbox of a 600cc. Really cool on track, OK on the streets if you are mainly running narrow twisties. I may change it back to - 1/0 when the next tire change is in order)
Sky, can you change 50 Mph to 60 Mph and, where is this calculator? How does it know original RPMs in each gear?
Can't check the numbers when I am at work. You did some back-of-the-envelope calculations for something. What did you do, and what do you want to estimate?"Not sure if this is true" and "Haven't checked" marginalizes your feedback.
Great info Lord Blueberry. I am still digesting all that info. Sky postes up a simple calculator above. The Mph is off and should be 60, not 50. But just trying to see where the RPMs will shift given a specified change as mentioned.Btw, you can do your on excel spreadsheet easily.
Take the ratios from your favourite source, 2016 Ninja ZX10R | Necat Motor Kawasaki
Then you get "tire rpm". Multiply by tire circumference, and you have "distance per minute". Multiply by 60
Or, if you wanna go backwards, take speed in MPH (or KPH if you are sane), divide by 60, divide by tire circumference. Then you are back at "tire revolutions per minute". You divide by the total ratio of your selected gear (primary reduction times gear reduction times final drive [sprockets] reduction) and you are back at rpm