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With metzler rr on back go 16 on front and see how the 39 feels. If 39 feels off then go one higher Vortex on back and test. I think oem one higher would work but haven't tested that yet. Front go bridgestone rs10 G. It V's way slow for me. If you don't use met rr rear then just go up on the rear sprocket until you find what you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
With metzler rr on back go 16 on front and see how the 39 feels. If 39 feels off then go one higher Vortex on back and test. I think oem one higher would work but haven't tested that yet. Front go bridgestone rs10 G. It V's way slow for me. If you don't use met rr rear then just go up on the rear sprocket until you find what you like.
Hi Scout. Thanks for the suggestion. I oscillate between RS10s and Metz M7s on the track. Have decided to go ahead with a +2R and a stock front for now. Incase it acts up then will go for a -1F and stock rear as suggested.
 

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I dropped 1 tooth on the CS and it made a world of difference. I would consider going up 1 in the rear, but it would be overkill. Just my opinion, but the bike is damn fast as is. The -1 CS was what it needed for the lack of low end torque the bike has stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I dropped 1 tooth on the CS and it made a world of difference. I would consider going up 1 in the rear, but it would be overkill. Just my opinion, but the bike is damn fast as is. The -1 CS was what it needed for the lack of low end torque the bike has stock.
in a gen5 I would not go beyond +2 rear or -1 front. unless you want to lose top end...
Thanks guys. Going ahead with a +2 at the rear. I dont think I will need to lower the gearing any further than that unless I make the bike a track-only machine.

Any feedback on the EK 3D chain? Going for the 525 pitch
 

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the bike comes with a 525 EK 3d chain...

I have the gold and black one... excellent, the stock one lasted me like 15K kms.
 

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This is a completely subjective topic that no one can answer over the internet. It completely depends on what YOU like. Some people like -1/+1, others swear -1/+2, and others still like just +1 or +2 on the back. YOU have to try different combinations to see what YOU like in the riding conditions that YOU do and that make sense for YOU and YOUR bike.

Same goes with a 520 or 525 conversion. If you're that conflicted about it, stick with the 525 stock size. Aluminum on the rear if you don't mind changing sprockets more often. Steel if you want to put it on and basically forget about it.
This hits the nail on the head. I have no clue why this "-1+2" bullshit has become the norm for pretty much every bike out there, but it's gotta stop. :lol:

You will find most street riders gear down their bikes because they do nothing but putt around on the road with them, so when 85% of your riding consists of going the speed limit (that you can do in 1st gear), yes, shorter gearing is a left handed way of "waking up" the bike.

Once you get to be a fast track day dude/racer, you'll find most people sticking pretty close to factory gearing.
 

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This hits the nail on the head. I have no clue why this "-1+2" bullshit has become the norm for pretty much every bike out there, but it's gotta stop. :lol:

You will find most street riders gear down their bikes because they do nothing but putt around on the road with them, so when 85% of your riding consists of going the speed limit (that you can do in 1st gear), yes, shorter gearing is a left handed way of "waking up" the bike.

Once you get to be a fast track day dude/racer, you'll find most people sticking pretty close to factory gearing.

Umm no. But, you are entitled to your opinion. I've ridden on track with, and been friends with many an expert MCRA, CMRA, CCS and WERA racer. That statement is complete BS. Gearing is, and has been always been dependent on the conditions. Track or street. If it's a 4 mile track where you top out... at like say Road America then yes, stocking gearing would be most guys choice. Shorter tracks like say Heartland Park Topeka, you will definitely run -1 +2 or in that vicinity. For the street, dropping a tooth on the CS is the most economical and feasible method to get around a 1st gear that runs into 100mph.
 
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Umm no. But, you are entitled to your opinion. I've ridden on track with, and been friends with many an expert MCRA, CMRA, CCS and WERA racer. That statement is complete BS. Gearing is, and has been always been dependent on the conditions. Track or street. If it's a 4 mile track where you top out... at like say Road America then yes, stocking gearing would be most guys choice. Shorter tracks like say Heartland Park Topeka, you will definitely run -1 +2 or in that vicinity. For the street, dropping a tooth on the CS is the most economical and feasible method to get around a 1st gear that runs into 100mph.
Ohhh...you've ridden with experts. Forgive me.

:crackup:
 

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Based on feedback from a few of the guys who have been racing these, plus talking to Ken Hill (who is familiar with my riding style), I decided to start with -1, +1. I'll probably have to get different set ups for the different tracks once I get going on the bike, but until then this seemed like a good place to start. Did the 520 conversion, but steel for both.
 

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This hits the nail on the head. I have no clue why this "-1+2" bullshit has become the norm for pretty much every bike out there, but it's gotta stop. :lol:

You will find most street riders gear down their bikes because they do nothing but putt around on the road with them, so when 85% of your riding consists of going the speed limit (that you can do in 1st gear), yes, shorter gearing is a left handed way of "waking up" the bike.

Once you get to be a fast track day dude/racer, you'll find most people sticking pretty close to factory gearing.
Uhhh nope
 

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I'm guessing you don't ride big tracks...like Road America or Road Atlanta. Wouldn't run that -1/+2 setup at tracks like that. At all.
Nope, run Mosport though and I'm -1 in the rear, Shannonville I'm -1f/+4r, Shubie I'm -2f/+5r, forget st.eustache and Edmonton.

Every track is different.
 

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Glad to see WERA Experts are still douchebags:surprise:
Hey, I'm not the one that tried to validate my opinion based off who I've ridden with. :dontknow:

Regardless of specific bike, you will see a general trend of gearing opinion differences. Slower people will generally always recommend shorter gearing as they lack the corner speed to proper utilize the closer to stock gearing. When you pick up corner speed you'll find there's not nearly enough gear to finish the corner. I know so many people telling others to go -1/+2 for a R6 on the East coast tracks and I can't help but shake my head. I run stock or +1 on the rear at every track I go to. Haven't gone more than +2 on the rear of my ZX10. For what it's worth I am on average 5-7 seconds off track lap records at the places I go.
 

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Hey, I'm not the one that tried to validate my opinion based off who I've ridden with. :dontknow:

Regardless of specific bike, you will see a general trend of gearing opinion differences. Slower people will generally always recommend shorter gearing as they lack the corner speed to proper utilize the closer to stock gearing. When you pick up corner speed you'll find there's not nearly enough gear to finish the corner. I know so many people telling others to go -1/+2 for a R6 on the East coast tracks and I can't help but shake my head. I run stock or +1 on the rear at every track I go to. Haven't gone more than +2 on the rear of my ZX10. For what it's worth I am on average 5-7 seconds off track lap records at the places I go.
5-7s off would put me in almost last place. I guess I'll try stock gearing and see what getting lapped feels like.

For the street I'd try -1f first because it's the cheapest and easiest way to try something.
 
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